low oil level for winter preparation?!
11-02-2015, 10:55 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
low oil level for winter preparation?!
Hi All!
I'm reading in Adrian Streather's Porsche 993 that He suggests that You park Your 993 for the winter with the oil level a little low, say a quart or so. And before You start the engine next time in the spring He suggests that You pour a quart of oil into the engine in order to have it covered with oil on the, after the winter, dry engine parts inside the engine.
But if You ask Me the quart of oil will go straight into the oil tank without touching the internals of the engine!
Am I right and Mr Streather wrong?
(The trick may work with an old Morris Minor where You fill the oil in a hole on top of the actual engine!)
I'm reading in Adrian Streather's Porsche 993 that He suggests that You park Your 993 for the winter with the oil level a little low, say a quart or so. And before You start the engine next time in the spring He suggests that You pour a quart of oil into the engine in order to have it covered with oil on the, after the winter, dry engine parts inside the engine.
But if You ask Me the quart of oil will go straight into the oil tank without touching the internals of the engine!
Am I right and Mr Streather wrong?
(The trick may work with an old Morris Minor where You fill the oil in a hole on top of the actual engine!)
11-02-2015, 12:15 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
11-02-2015, 12:26 PM
#4
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Adding a litre later does not make any sense to me either. What page?
I have been saying for years that it's much better to turn the engine over every month of storage with the DME relay pulled than start and idle the car. I even do it when the car sits for over a week or so just to pre-lube any parts where the oil may have gradually left. Another trick - not really on topic here but good if you do the above - is to always rotate or start the car without the clutch engaged so you do not load the bearing behind the flywheel before any oil pressure is built. That may involve shorting the clutch switch so the engine will turn over without the clutch engaged.
Is also good practice on an oil change. Drain the oil, change the filters, and fill up 7 litres. Remove the DME relay, crank the engine in 10 second bursts until you get at least 1 bar oil pressure -> usually on the third crank. Then fill up to 9.5 litres, replace the relay and start the car. Go for a drive, fully warm up the oil, and then top it up to exactly where you want it - which is in the lower 1/3 of the twisted part of the dipstick.
Gee, off topic again.. sorry.
Cheers,
Mike
I have been saying for years that it's much better to turn the engine over every month of storage with the DME relay pulled than start and idle the car. I even do it when the car sits for over a week or so just to pre-lube any parts where the oil may have gradually left. Another trick - not really on topic here but good if you do the above - is to always rotate or start the car without the clutch engaged so you do not load the bearing behind the flywheel before any oil pressure is built. That may involve shorting the clutch switch so the engine will turn over without the clutch engaged.
Is also good practice on an oil change. Drain the oil, change the filters, and fill up 7 litres. Remove the DME relay, crank the engine in 10 second bursts until you get at least 1 bar oil pressure -> usually on the third crank. Then fill up to 9.5 litres, replace the relay and start the car. Go for a drive, fully warm up the oil, and then top it up to exactly where you want it - which is in the lower 1/3 of the twisted part of the dipstick.
Gee, off topic again.. sorry.
Cheers,
Mike
11-02-2015, 01:48 PM
#6
Hi All!
I'm reading in Adrian Streather's Porsche 993 that He suggests that You park Your 993 for the winter with the oil level a little low, say a quart or so. And before You start the engine next time in the spring He suggests that You pour a quart of oil into the engine in order to have it covered with oil on the, after the winter, dry engine parts inside the engine.
I'm reading in Adrian Streather's Porsche 993 that He suggests that You park Your 993 for the winter with the oil level a little low, say a quart or so. And before You start the engine next time in the spring He suggests that You pour a quart of oil into the engine in order to have it covered with oil on the, after the winter, dry engine parts inside the engine.
I just pour a quart into the clutch vent pipe, less mess.
Last edited by EMBPilot; 11-02-2015 at 02:21 PM.
11-02-2015, 03:10 PM
#7
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Adding a litre later does not make any sense to me either. What page?
I have been saying for years that it's much better to turn the engine over every month of storage with the DME relay pulled than start and idle the car. I even do it when the car sits for over a week or so just to pre-lube any parts where the oil may have gradually left. Another trick - not really on topic here but good if you do the above - is to always rotate or start the car without the clutch engaged so you do not load the bearing behind the flywheel before any oil pressure is built. That may involve shorting the clutch switch so the engine will turn over without the clutch engaged.
Is also good practice on an oil change. Drain the oil, change the filters, and fill up 7 litres. Remove the DME relay, crank the engine in 10 second bursts until you get at least 1 bar oil pressure -> usually on the third crank. Then fill up to 9.5 litres, replace the relay and start the car. Go for a drive, fully warm up the oil, and then top it up to exactly where you want it - which is in the lower 1/3 of the twisted part of the dipstick.
I have been saying for years that it's much better to turn the engine over every month of storage with the DME relay pulled than start and idle the car. I even do it when the car sits for over a week or so just to pre-lube any parts where the oil may have gradually left. Another trick - not really on topic here but good if you do the above - is to always rotate or start the car without the clutch engaged so you do not load the bearing behind the flywheel before any oil pressure is built. That may involve shorting the clutch switch so the engine will turn over without the clutch engaged.
Is also good practice on an oil change. Drain the oil, change the filters, and fill up 7 litres. Remove the DME relay, crank the engine in 10 second bursts until you get at least 1 bar oil pressure -> usually on the third crank. Then fill up to 9.5 litres, replace the relay and start the car. Go for a drive, fully warm up the oil, and then top it up to exactly where you want it - which is in the lower 1/3 of the twisted part of the dipstick.
Andreas
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11-02-2015, 09:09 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
11-02-2015, 09:38 PM
#9
Race Car
i think he meant to say "pour it into the intake manifold..."
I just pour a quart into the clutch vent pipe, less mess.
I just pour a quart into the clutch vent pipe, less mess.
11-02-2015, 09:57 PM
#10
11-02-2015, 10:16 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
even better is to make a "priming rod"
- remove the distributor
- insert priming rod
- attach drill motor
- spin
- watch oil pressure come up.
- remove the stuff that doesn't belong
- insert distributor
- fire that mother up.
NOTE: none of the stuff i just typed in bullets may work on a dry sump car, but it worked GREAT on big block MOPARS to pre-oil an engine.
Steve W?