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Yep they are adjustable...
Now usually I wouldn't spring for products that lacked quality, fit, and form....But these seats have proven themselves.
A friend of mine had the same model /pn on his vehicle... Reskinned in OEM Mercedes leather on his CLK55 (W208).
He was hit last year head on at 50mph..(Offset) front left crash....Thanks to a driver under the influence going the wrong way on a 4 lane street.....
The seats didn't give in and his back was fine..
at 900 a pair... Both the tubular frame and materials are TUV approved....As long as you aren't looking for some FIA qualified racing seats and looking for some affordable seats that won't break the piggy bank these may fit the bill.
This weekend was one hell of a tiring weekend...
Stayed up Sunday AM till 5AM finishing up most of the outside of the car just in time for Luftgekult. Which I awoke at 7; showered then drove off to...
I was going to make it to Cal Festival of speed but the rain wasn't in my favor....
Which then I needed to book it to the LA County Convention Center for Autocon after…
(Those who do the RS heater delete elbow)- The closest Vacuum T size we should use is a 5/32 T Instead of the 4 way.
I did the Rennline Aluminum backings on the driver and passenger side- Really well made- 6061 panels...and tied with Rennline RS doorpanels and sills...
The speaker holes on the RS panels are 5 1/4; but the 993 doors can fit up to 6.5" speakers. I used the suggested RF 3 ways as a few others have.. But I used some RAAM mat (Similar to Dynamat) inside the doors after chipping away the tar.. and used the barrier as a few on the forums have used after removing the plastic tarp.....
For the speaker pods I used the Dynamat made foam buckets...Didn't really notice a super loss of audio quality as my car did have the hifi audio package from the factory.
Still need to add the M030 Front (When I find time)….This MBA+993 is eating up all my spare time…
Did the function first Transmission Mount.
(Having the car on a lift with an exhaust jack will make it easier)….(Do the Transmount first prior to the Motormounts) because you’ll use the deflection to your advantage)…
I needed to drop the rear subframe bolts on the cross member to get the transmission to drop enough…also the Shifter linkage needs to be undone before dropping everything all down…. I did notice more precise gear shifts after…Also a bit more vibration through the RS Shiftknob.
And RS Motor Mounts:
Just a word of advice you can buy better hardware(Minus the Zinc) engine mount washers- at a local specialty hardware store-
For those in Socal- Visit GSA Supply or Hilco (Which is where I went)
04-12-2016, 10:56 AM
