Help removing AC CCU - caught from behind
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From: CT
Help removing AC CCU - caught from behind
Hey all.
I'm trying to pull the AC CCU so I can measure the evaporator freeze sensor resistance at the harness (the previous owner monkeyed with that sensor and left it rattling around in the duct work by the right fan...).
The unit is free, using the Blaupunkt tools, and is past the winshield wiper control, but is caught from behind, I guess by the harness. I've pulled pretty hard, but don't want to pull any harder until checking in here.
I've pulled the audio head unit and can't see anything through that way.
Any tips?
Many thanks.
I'm trying to pull the AC CCU so I can measure the evaporator freeze sensor resistance at the harness (the previous owner monkeyed with that sensor and left it rattling around in the duct work by the right fan...).
The unit is free, using the Blaupunkt tools, and is past the winshield wiper control, but is caught from behind, I guess by the harness. I've pulled pretty hard, but don't want to pull any harder until checking in here.
I've pulled the audio head unit and can't see anything through that way.
Any tips?
Many thanks.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,613
Likes: 52
From: DFW, TX
There's a ziptie that you snip and it frees up some slack in the harness.
Regarding the evaporator freeze probe, that's accessed via the trunk, next to the expansion valve. I don't think there's a way for that to be rattling around since it's basically buried in the evaporator coil. Unless he broke it and the broken piece fell into the HVAC unit.
You should be able to get comparable access to the HVAC recirculation intake vents (and line of sight into the evaporator) by removing the stereo. There's flaps that close via gravity, but the vacuum created by the HVAC blowers opens them up.
Regarding the evaporator freeze probe, that's accessed via the trunk, next to the expansion valve. I don't think there's a way for that to be rattling around since it's basically buried in the evaporator coil. Unless he broke it and the broken piece fell into the HVAC unit.
You should be able to get comparable access to the HVAC recirculation intake vents (and line of sight into the evaporator) by removing the stereo. There's flaps that close via gravity, but the vacuum created by the HVAC blowers opens them up.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: CT
Thanks, Vandit. Where is this zip tie that I need to cut?
The sensor is messed up. There's a pic here showing how he left it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght-to-me.html
Since he spliced into the sensor's harness, I want to measure what the CCU is measuring.
The sensor is messed up. There's a pic here showing how he left it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ght-to-me.html
Since he spliced into the sensor's harness, I want to measure what the CCU is measuring.
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Once you cut the zip tie, I recommend pushing the CCU from the back, rather than trying to pull it--the face plate might pull off. It's not easy, and small hands help, but it is doable. As you may know already, the two harness connectors each have a hook at one end and a release catch at the other, and the two connectors are opposite, so one disconnects from the other end...
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,613
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From: DFW, TX
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,182
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From: CT
Yep, zip tie was easily found and cutting it did the trick. If it wasn't 95 degrees yesterday I might have crawled under the steering wheel and found it myself - thanks for the help.
Separating the connectors was hard, but I grabbed a circlip pliers (the spreading kind) and separated the connectors easily at their latch sides.
Most importantly, this sensor was the root cause of the compressor not starting (was open circuit) so I soldered in a 3.3K resistor in its place and now have ice cold air. I'll update the thread linked above.
Separating the connectors was hard, but I grabbed a circlip pliers (the spreading kind) and separated the connectors easily at their latch sides.
Most importantly, this sensor was the root cause of the compressor not starting (was open circuit) so I soldered in a 3.3K resistor in its place and now have ice cold air. I'll update the thread linked above.
