Removing rear toe-in adjustment bolt
Thread Starter
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 776
Likes: 22
Removing rear toe-in adjustment bolt
Replacing rear shocks and following the rear suspension replacement outlined at pcarworkshop.
Link: http://pcarworkshop.com/index.php/99...on_Replacement
The recommendation for removing the left side rear toe-in adjustment bolt is to
jack up the motor a bit so the bolt will clear the heat exchanger.
Tried that, but the motor did not move far enough so the bolt can come out.
Anyone have a different approach for this?
REALLY hoping that I don't have to remove the heat exchanger.
Link: http://pcarworkshop.com/index.php/99...on_Replacement
The recommendation for removing the left side rear toe-in adjustment bolt is to
jack up the motor a bit so the bolt will clear the heat exchanger.
Tried that, but the motor did not move far enough so the bolt can come out.
Anyone have a different approach for this?
REALLY hoping that I don't have to remove the heat exchanger.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 409
Likes: 22
From: East of Yeehaw Junction
I had the same problem and used a 2x2 block of wood and hammer to make a small dent in the heat exchanger by the head of the bolt. It gave me just enough room to get the bolt out.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 310
Likes: 58
Impossible to pull out the end attached to the shock; it is a ball joint that is part of the toe arm.
My bolt came out without moving the motor but I have new Wevo motor mounts. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Did you loosen the motor mounts before jacking up the motor. You should be able to move the motor as much as needed with the mounts loose.
Good luck,
D.
My bolt came out without moving the motor but I have new Wevo motor mounts. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Did you loosen the motor mounts before jacking up the motor. You should be able to move the motor as much as needed with the mounts loose.
Good luck,
D.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Pacific Northwest
I just finished my shocks and I had the same problem even after jacking up the motor. I ended up lightly tapping the bolt to get the bolt head past the heat exchanger. It also took a light tap to get it back in but it worked out fine. Screw the nut on a few threads first to protect them. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 776
Likes: 22
Got the left toe-in adjustment bolt out
Maybe I wasn't doing something right.
Finally decided to remove the rear cross member. The rear cross member is held on with 4 bolts.
The right link was already disconnected at the cross member, so the 2 cross member bolts on the right side came out easily.
On the left side, I could only remove the top cross member bolt. I could not loosen the cross member bolt blocked by the left link.
But I could loosen it, and that was all that was needed. After 3 of the 4 bolts were removed, the link and cross member would drop
low enough to clear the left heat exchanger and then I could slide out the left toe-in adjustment bolt.
Trending Topics
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,484
Likes: 20
From: Central California
Impossible to pull out the end attached to the shock; it is a ball joint that is part of the toe arm.
My bolt came out without moving the motor but I have new Wevo motor mounts. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Did you loosen the motor mounts before jacking up the motor. You should be able to move the motor as much as needed with the mounts loose.
Good luck,
D.
My bolt came out without moving the motor but I have new Wevo motor mounts. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Did you loosen the motor mounts before jacking up the motor. You should be able to move the motor as much as needed with the mounts loose.
Good luck,
D.
You use a tie-rod puller tool and just pop the ball joint end out of shock end. When I put the rear monoballs camber plates, I did this and then just pulled whole strut assm. out, replaced top camber mounts and re-installed.
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Porsche's Top 5 Most Questionable Naming Decisions
Verdad Gallardo
Pogea Racing's 964 Porsche 911 Reimagination Stands Out in a Crowded Field
Verdad Gallardo
6 Convertible Top MYTHS Most People Don't Understand!
Michael S. Palmer
2026 Porsche 911 Club Coupe is Spectacular, And Everything Wrong with the Porsche Market
Joe Kucinski
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Verdad Gallardo
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Verdad Gallardo
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Verdad Gallardo
I've Written 500 Rennlist Articles: Here's How Porsche Has Changed Along the Way
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Unnecessary Porsches Ever Built (And Why We Love Them)
Verdad Gallardo
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,980
Likes: 1
From: Charleston, SC
I just finished my shocks and I had the same problem even after jacking up the motor. I ended up lightly tapping the bolt to get the bolt head past the heat exchanger. It also took a light tap to get it back in but it worked out fine. Screw the nut on a few threads first to protect them. Hope this helps.
lt lined up so I can hit it and it would go out evenly, hopefully that will make sense
Thread Starter
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 776
Likes: 22
The other end of the link is captured by the cross member.
Even after taking things apart, I didn't think the approach above would be possible.
But I just slipped the link back into the cross member and it does seem
that it would be possible to yank out the shock end of the link with a really good tug.
I now believe that rear suspension replacement can be done without even removing the toe-in bolts.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,484
Likes: 20
From: Central California
The ball joint on the end of the link that attaches to the shock end has a bolt that is 3 inches long.
The other end of the link is captured by the cross member.
Even after taking things apart, I didn't think the approach above would be possible.
But I just slipped the link back into the cross member and it does seem
that it would be possible to yank out the shock end of the link with a really good tug.
I now believe that rear suspension replacement can be done without even removing the toe-in bolts.
The other end of the link is captured by the cross member.
Even after taking things apart, I didn't think the approach above would be possible.
But I just slipped the link back into the cross member and it does seem
that it would be possible to yank out the shock end of the link with a really good tug.
I now believe that rear suspension replacement can be done without even removing the toe-in bolts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 11
From: WetCoast, Canadä
Finally decided to remove the rear cross member. The rear cross member is held on with 4 bolts.
The right link was already disconnected at the cross member, so the 2 cross member bolts on the right side came out easily.
On the left side, I could only remove the top cross member bolt. I could not loosen the cross member bolt blocked by the left link.
But I could loosen it, and that was all that was needed. After 3 of the 4 bolts were removed, the link and cross member would drop
low enough to clear the left heat exchanger and then I could slide out the left toe-in adjustment bolt.
The right link was already disconnected at the cross member, so the 2 cross member bolts on the right side came out easily.
On the left side, I could only remove the top cross member bolt. I could not loosen the cross member bolt blocked by the left link.
But I could loosen it, and that was all that was needed. After 3 of the 4 bolts were removed, the link and cross member would drop
low enough to clear the left heat exchanger and then I could slide out the left toe-in adjustment bolt.