uberlawyer

So, update: the ISV hadn't been cleaned properly the first time around. It was working partially, but not enough - basically, still partially seized.

As Rdelvalle mentioned, when properly cleaned it should rattle when you simply twist it, showing that the butterfly valve is working without effort.

It has now been properly cleaned, and indeed the car starts without problems. In addition, when the a/c compressor kicks in, idle speed is no longer panicking )))

On a fun note, i am running on just one distributor (secondary one), because the cap for the primary is basically there just for show - please see attached pic. Part of the graphite core is missing (doesn't have the proper length) and I assume it connects to the rotor by means of an electric arc, rather than through contact.

Secondary is not far off, but still working. I think they might be original... Scary

I decided to investigate the caps and rotors because after a heavy rain the car would barely start, have a VERY rough idle and refuse to revv until the engine got hot enough, thereby drying out any water. Luckily I had already ordered caps and rotors and they should be here tomorrow.

Thanks to all for your support.

Duggie

So if the valve arrow points to the front on a varioram out of curiosity is this different on the non-varioram engine??

Duggie

Rdelvalle

Glad you are out of the woods with the ISV valve. Now on to more difficult projects.

uberlawyer

@Duggie: it appears that on non-varioram the arrow points to the back of the car. The arrow just indicates the air flow https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...direction.html

@Rdelvalle: thank you. The car is actually almost ready. The ISV along with the caps and rotors are just the finishing touches. I bought it in early January, now it's end June and I think during this period it has mostly been to the shop than with me.

Upgrades/fixes included:

PSS10s and new top mounts
all Rennline bushings (front arms and rear subframe)
HIDs and LEDs (Tore)
996 3-spoke wheel and airbag
Golden Rod and SSK from FD Motorsports
new heat-shields all around (save for the catalyst shield, it was brand new)
original Turbo S rear wing
Turbo S front airscoops
new A/C condenser and filter/desiccator
Michelin PS2s (not yet fitted)
Rennsport engine mounts
caps and rotors
ignition coil (just to make sure)
new oil resistor
engine, transmission and front diff oil change with filters
fuel filter
pollen filters
mending the usual rust points under the rear suports as well as sand-blasting the rear subframe
new front diff seals
new roll bar bushes and roll bar mounts
new right-side lower ball joint
Rennline gauge bezels
... and many more that I cannot recall right now

I intend to drop off the engine in autumn and change the spark plugs, wires and Rennline engine covers and seals (no immediate need as there are no leaks and furthermore the PO had also done a chainhousing re-seal, but I would like to future proof it and dropping the engine is a good time to do it).

Rdelvalle

@uberlawyer: Wow that is an impressive list of things. I just did a complete overhaul to both of my convertible top transmissions including new cables. That was a job but know I know the top mechanism inside out and is brand new. My next project PSS10. I am gearing up for it. Do you do your own work? I do mine. How is the PSS10 you like it?

uberlawyer

That's one of my biggest regrets, that I do not do my own work. Unfortunately I simply lack the skills to do it - I am ashamed, but I must admit it. I also generally lack the time.

But I do read a lot and I do document myself. This is why resources such as Rennlist, pcarworkshop and jackalsforge have proven invaluable to me - I am deeply grateful to this community.

Most of the mechanics do not believe me at first, but ultimately they accept my advice is right most of the time. Now everyone in the shop greets me and they have asked me for advice in identifying issues and parts for other Porsches.

As for PSS10, I already had them on my previous car (a 1989 964 C2 Tip - I managed to total it, very sad story), so they have not impressed me that much this time around. They are however a great improvement and you will love just how much planted & precise the car feels.

Then there is the issue of comfort - based on the quality of the roads where you live, you may love the PSS10s or you may... well, not necessarily hate them, but be a little less happy with them ))) But since you live in the US, I think you should be ok. The firmness is also adjustable, so that should help as well.

Best of luck with your projects - looking forward to reading about them.

Rdelvalle

You should venture to do your own. If it is not a DD then you can afford to start and go at the pace you need to go. When you get stuck you come to Rennlist and ask. I enjoy working on the car more than driving it. My car has 41k mi and is in an A/C Garage. This is where I do the work. The top transmissions was quite a challenge but the reward when I pressed the toggle switch and it worked, phenomenal.
Start with a small project the ISV would have been a good one then as you get confidence you move on to more complex ones.
Whatever you are going to fix, how to do it is in here. Most of the time is scatter but is here. I have posted detailed how to do it on the Cab convertible control panel and the ISV valve.

Go for it is part of the fun in owning these cars.

CHJ

It really is! And if you can handle the fear of a courtroom, surely you can handle the fear of small first time repairs.

Chuck

nine9six

Not to mimic Steve W., (and this is not a bad thing) but in this instance; caps, rotors, wires, fuel filter, distributor belt, and such related sundries should be promptly replaced...Having the injectors sonically cleaned, probably wouldn't hurt either. Outta curiosity, how many miles are on the clock?

Curious as to what solvent was used to "properly" clean the ISV, the second time around? Did it go back to the same, weenie mechanic that cleaned it the first time w/brake cleaner?

Today's carb/throttle body cleaner manf. understand there are electrical connections involved, and this is taken into consideration during formulation...At least that's what a couple of well respected air cooled P-car mechanics have relayed to me, while stating brake cleaner is a no-no; cept on non-painted/coated surfaces.

uberlawyer

I insisted on carb cleaner and they told me this is what they used this time around.

Changing caps and rotors seemed to address the rough idle and refusal to revv after heavy rain.

Wires and plugs are on the list, anyway.

uberlawyer

Hey nine9six, it's only now that I've seen your edit.

The car has almost 105,000 km - that's about 65k miles. It's been properly cared for by its previous 2 owners - it spent almost its entire life in Monte Carlo ))) So basically it's been better off than me...

Good idea about the injectors - again, that's something I should do when the engine is out. I intend to also put it on a dyno to see where we stand. I'll obviously need a dyno that can accommodate awd.

Incidentally, does anyone know how to test for the proper operation of the awd system? I would imagine turning the front wheel and seeing whether the rear move as well?

I also tried testing for LSD by turning the wheel, and it ain't looking good - the other wheel is turning in the opposite direction. Then again, being that the ratio of the 4S is 20/40 (I think, do not recall exactly), maybe it's only supposed to lock under certain conditions that cannot be reproduced just by turning the wheel.

nine9six

Forgive me for saying so, but by the looks of the condition of the cap pictured; I wouldn't exactly say the car was properly cared for...Do your records indicate a fuel filter has been r&r'd within the past 25k mi?

FWIW, I'm fairly certain, pulling the injectors does not require an engine drop...

Looks like you're on the right path, and have addressed your most immediate issues

uberlawyer

Normally I would agree with you, but the caps and rotors are sensitive issues mostly known to Porsche enthusiasts like us. As I've said, a chain-housing reseal has been done (at a Porsche dealer in Germany, I have the invoices), and that means that the PO has shown some love to the car.

In addition, I have Porsche dealers stamps for every year in the car's life, which again is a good sign.

I also think that the leather upholstery has been restored or at least repainted at some point. The catalyst shield has been changed with a brand new unit showing a production date of August 2014. Granted, I changed all the rest, but I did that because I'm just OCD like that, it was not really needed ))))) I figured that if after almost 20 years they held that well, they deserve to be changed and have peace of mind for another 20.

I assume that indeed you can do the injectors with the engine in place, but it will definitely be easier to do it since I drop it anyway in autumn. Otherwise, I might miss the entire season to drive the car ))

Thank you for your good advice - truly appreciated!

mjsorl

Cleaned with Mineral Spirits and soft brush.
Arrow to the rear.
95 C2

Now on to mass air sensor