1996 993 key remote does not work
10-21-2018, 08:40 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Many thanks.
Will definitely replace car battery.
Also, in an effort to avoid future problems, I was thinking about the Immobilizer Removal from ECU Doctors:
http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-99...r-removal.html
Anyone have any experience?
-DC
Will definitely replace car battery.
Also, in an effort to avoid future problems, I was thinking about the Immobilizer Removal from ECU Doctors:
http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-99...r-removal.html
Anyone have any experience?
-DC
10-22-2018, 11:56 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
1. Buy a CTEK battery maintainer for $60 and tender your car battery.
2. Make sure the remote battery light is on full bright red. Replace battery when light flickers and you have to press it a few times to unlock or lock.
No need to spend thousands of dollars.
2. Make sure the remote battery light is on full bright red. Replace battery when light flickers and you have to press it a few times to unlock or lock.
No need to spend thousands of dollars.
10-22-2018, 12:59 PM
#34
Good recommendations!
10-22-2018, 04:12 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Door LED flashing in couplets indicates a problem with the alarm system although probably not related to your problem but worth checking
probably a door sesnaor switch needs adjusting, possibly crunk or engine lid, maybe glove box
probably a door sesnaor switch needs adjusting, possibly crunk or engine lid, maybe glove box
10-22-2018, 09:43 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Car is/has been stored on CTEK. Always.
Fob batteries are new and LEDs are red.
Replaced car battery. No joy.
Spoke to ECU Doctors...
Immobilizer may be faulty. Also, still don't have code. Dealer slow walking. Whatever.
Sending Immobilizer and ECU to ECU Doctors for evaluation and/or repair.
Will plan to perform their Immobilizer Removal.
Stay tuned.
This is a PITA
Fob batteries are new and LEDs are red.
Replaced car battery. No joy.
Spoke to ECU Doctors...
Immobilizer may be faulty. Also, still don't have code. Dealer slow walking. Whatever.
Sending Immobilizer and ECU to ECU Doctors for evaluation and/or repair.
Will plan to perform their Immobilizer Removal.
Stay tuned.
This is a PITA
10-22-2018, 09:49 PM
#37
Car is/has been stored on CTEK. Always.
Fob batteries are new and LEDs are red.
Replaced car battery. No joy.
Spoke to ECU Doctors...
Immobilizer may be faulty. Also, still don't have code. Dealer slow walking. Whatever.
Sending Immobilizer and ECU to ECU Doctors for evaluation and/or repair.
Will plan to perform their Immobilizer Removal.
Stay tuned.
This is a PITA
Fob batteries are new and LEDs are red.
Replaced car battery. No joy.
Spoke to ECU Doctors...
Immobilizer may be faulty. Also, still don't have code. Dealer slow walking. Whatever.
Sending Immobilizer and ECU to ECU Doctors for evaluation and/or repair.
Will plan to perform their Immobilizer Removal.
Stay tuned.
This is a PITA
Read here; http://www.systemsc.com/problems.htm , under Porsche, Immobilizer 993
10-22-2018, 10:16 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Both the 993 immobilizer AND the DME ECM are very reliable AND rarely if ever fail!
Read here; http://www.systemsc.com/problems.htm , under Porsche, Immobilizer 993
Read here; http://www.systemsc.com/problems.htm , under Porsche, Immobilizer 993
Will check-the-box re: immobilizer and DME ECM and continue to systematically rule out all other potential causes.
What other choice do I have?
10-22-2018, 10:36 PM
#39
Key remotes (fobs) can become intermittent where the battery connectors attach to the fob circuit board. Both of those connections need to be cleaned and re-soldered.
And remember that the alarm unit under the passenger seat controls the door locks and provides power to the DME ECM. So there're four elements; the immobilizer,
the DME ECM, the alarm unit, & the remote (fob).
10-22-2018, 10:49 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Another point:
Key remotes (fobs) can become intermittent where the battery connectors attach to the fob circuit board. Both of those connections need to be cleaned and re-soldered.
And remember that the alarm unit under the passenger seat controls the door locks and provides power to the DME ECM. So there're four elements; the immobilizer,
the DME ECM, the alarm unit, & the remote (fob).
Key remotes (fobs) can become intermittent where the battery connectors attach to the fob circuit board. Both of those connections need to be cleaned and re-soldered.
And remember that the alarm unit under the passenger seat controls the door locks and provides power to the DME ECM. So there're four elements; the immobilizer,
the DME ECM, the alarm unit, & the remote (fob).
...and ignition switch and central locking module.
BTW: Neither of my 2 key fobs are functional at the moment and I replaced batteries on both.
Both key fobs will be going to ecu doctors for testing along with the immobizer and dme ecm.
10-23-2018, 10:29 AM
#42
have one fob that worked...second one did not despite red light going on when pushing rubber button on fob
changed battery in second fob/cleaned battery terminals...light went on but still not working to unlock car; opened up case, cleaned connection under "rubber button" of fob...touched connection under rubber button w small screwdriver and door unlocked...closed up fob...pushed rubber button...not working despite light going on....pushed the rubber button harder few times and red light was brighter and unlocked doors...now working
changed battery in second fob/cleaned battery terminals...light went on but still not working to unlock car; opened up case, cleaned connection under "rubber button" of fob...touched connection under rubber button w small screwdriver and door unlocked...closed up fob...pushed rubber button...not working despite light going on....pushed the rubber button harder few times and red light was brighter and unlocked doors...now working
10-23-2018, 12:58 PM
#43
have one fob that worked...second one did not despite red light going on when pushing rubber button on fob
changed battery in second fob/cleaned battery terminals...light went on but still not working to unlock car; opened up case, cleaned connection under "rubber button" of fob...touched connection under rubber button w small screwdriver and door unlocked...closed up fob...pushed rubber button...not working despite light going on....pushed the rubber button harder few times and red light was brighter and unlocked doors...now working
changed battery in second fob/cleaned battery terminals...light went on but still not working to unlock car; opened up case, cleaned connection under "rubber button" of fob...touched connection under rubber button w small screwdriver and door unlocked...closed up fob...pushed rubber button...not working despite light going on....pushed the rubber button harder few times and red light was brighter and unlocked doors...now working
10-27-2018, 12:39 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Thanks for advice, but had already been mailed to ECU docs.
Wasn't aware of Loren's skills...did I miss something, posts, threads, etc?
Update: Immobilizer was indeed faulty/non responsive and needs to be rebuilt if I want to utilize it. ECU and alarm control unit are working fine.
Will end up completely bypassing immobilizer and all associated fobs and install immobilizer removal whereby I'll go back to old school and unlock the door mechanically with the key. Least expensive and simplest option with lowest chance of future worry.
Wasn't aware of Loren's skills...did I miss something, posts, threads, etc?
Update: Immobilizer was indeed faulty/non responsive and needs to be rebuilt if I want to utilize it. ECU and alarm control unit are working fine.
Will end up completely bypassing immobilizer and all associated fobs and install immobilizer removal whereby I'll go back to old school and unlock the door mechanically with the key. Least expensive and simplest option with lowest chance of future worry.
10-27-2018, 11:35 PM
#45
Thanks for advice, but had already been mailed to ECU docs.
Wasn't aware of Loren's skills...did I miss something, posts, threads, etc?
Update: Immobilizer was indeed faulty/non responsive and needs to be rebuilt if I want to utilize it. ECU and alarm control unit are working fine.
Will end up completely bypassing immobilizer and all associated fobs and install immobilizer removal whereby I'll go back to old school and unlock the door mechanically with the key. Least expensive and simplest option with lowest chance of future worry.
Wasn't aware of Loren's skills...did I miss something, posts, threads, etc?
Update: Immobilizer was indeed faulty/non responsive and needs to be rebuilt if I want to utilize it. ECU and alarm control unit are working fine.
Will end up completely bypassing immobilizer and all associated fobs and install immobilizer removal whereby I'll go back to old school and unlock the door mechanically with the key. Least expensive and simplest option with lowest chance of future worry.
probably about 1/4 the cost of removing the immobilizer.
