Distributor question/problem
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Distributor question/problem
Hello,
Have questions about distributors:
1. Engine should be able to start with only one distributor working?
- when i unplug coil cable from primary dist, it will not start
- when i unplug coil from secondary dist, it starts (but it takes some time), and about after 30-50 seconds it stops. After have problem starting even if both coils are plugged in (need a lot of rpm to stay running).
I checked all the wires (wires are new) and all go to correct cylinders. Firing sequence is correct. Distr cups are BERU and looks like in good shape.
Is this normal?
Thanks
stan
Have questions about distributors:
1. Engine should be able to start with only one distributor working?
- when i unplug coil cable from primary dist, it will not start
- when i unplug coil from secondary dist, it starts (but it takes some time), and about after 30-50 seconds it stops. After have problem starting even if both coils are plugged in (need a lot of rpm to stay running).
I checked all the wires (wires are new) and all go to correct cylinders. Firing sequence is correct. Distr cups are BERU and looks like in good shape.
Is this normal?
Thanks
stan
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From: NJ
Hello, is this issue brand new? Meaning did it occur immediately after the plug wire change?
If not, start at the basics check for spark from the primary and secondary coil ( you can use a screwdriver or an old plug and an assistant to crank the motor as you check for spark at both coils) If you use a plug, ground the threaded portion, if you use a screwdriver, leave a tiny gap to ground for it to jump.
If that goes well, then check at a plug wire that originates from each dizzy. If still good then re check the firing order, if not, cap, rotor or trigger in dizzy may be at fault. The distributor has one side driven by shaft and the other by belt. The more common scenario is the belt driven side won't work ( due to broken belt)
Good luck and keep us posted
If not, start at the basics check for spark from the primary and secondary coil ( you can use a screwdriver or an old plug and an assistant to crank the motor as you check for spark at both coils) If you use a plug, ground the threaded portion, if you use a screwdriver, leave a tiny gap to ground for it to jump.
If that goes well, then check at a plug wire that originates from each dizzy. If still good then re check the firing order, if not, cap, rotor or trigger in dizzy may be at fault. The distributor has one side driven by shaft and the other by belt. The more common scenario is the belt driven side won't work ( due to broken belt)
Good luck and keep us posted
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Have you plugs been changed ever? A car with older plugs may not idle well when running on the primary only. Have you replaced them in the last 50K miles? Pull a plug attached to the primary distributor and look at it. It should have a light ash coating on it. If it has what looks like carbon buildup or is wet with fuel or oil the issue may not be your electrical system.
A broken distributor belt can cause significant consequential damage to the engine so checking for a working belt should be done regularly on all cars and any time you perceive a change in engine performance, rough idle or other ignition issue. I do a quick check once a year just to be on the safe side. To test just unplug the primary distributor’s coil, the one leading to the distributor where the base of the distributor bolts to the engine case. If the car starts and runs at all with only the secondary distributor’s coil wire attached the belt is in place, if not it is most likely broken. If the belt is found to be broken and you must drive the car to have it serviced leave only the primary distributor’s coil attached to minimize the risk of out of timing cylinder detonation damaging the engine.
A broken distributor belt can cause significant consequential damage to the engine so checking for a working belt should be done regularly on all cars and any time you perceive a change in engine performance, rough idle or other ignition issue. I do a quick check once a year just to be on the safe side. To test just unplug the primary distributor’s coil, the one leading to the distributor where the base of the distributor bolts to the engine case. If the car starts and runs at all with only the secondary distributor’s coil wire attached the belt is in place, if not it is most likely broken. If the belt is found to be broken and you must drive the car to have it serviced leave only the primary distributor’s coil attached to minimize the risk of out of timing cylinder detonation damaging the engine.
Thread Starter
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thanks for answers.
to clarify:
with both distributors coils plugged in - the car runs good. Sometimes when is wet it has a ruff idle.
I wanted to do some testing to check what might be a problem....
So to make sure:
engine should run with only one distributor working - either primary or secondary?
is this correct?
Regards,
Stan
to clarify:
with both distributors coils plugged in - the car runs good. Sometimes when is wet it has a ruff idle.
I wanted to do some testing to check what might be a problem....
So to make sure:
engine should run with only one distributor working - either primary or secondary?
is this correct?
Regards,
Stan
Last edited by hotaru; Feb 14, 2015 at 04:01 PM. Reason: spelling
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Hi, thanks
I checked the belt - it is OK. Setting of dist button is ok, same as primary.
But, still it will not start with secondary distr only ...
Maybe coil is bad? can i switch the coils between primary and secondary?
I checked the belt - it is OK. Setting of dist button is ok, same as primary.
But, still it will not start with secondary distr only ...
Maybe coil is bad? can i switch the coils between primary and secondary?
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Some say cleaning out and buffing the internal contact points in the caps and rotors will extend their life. Does anyone have experience with this?
Andy
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Please clarify "Setting of dist button is ok, same as primary" .... if you mean that when the engine is manually rotated (24mm wrench on alternator nut & pressure on the fan belt), both rotor buttons turn equally ----- and when turned to TDC #1, BOTH buttons point at their respective index marks on the distributor case - then all is well 
If, however, this means that they both point in the same direction, then the secondary distributor is out of time = belt problem.
If everything checks out, it should be no prob to swap coils for a S/U test.
BTW, with caps off, check the condition of the spring loaded carbon central contact for freedom of movement and a nice domed contact surface - and signs of arcing/carbon tracking .... ditto for the rotor buttons: rare that one fails, but they can also be swapped to check function.
If, however, this means that they both point in the same direction, then the secondary distributor is out of time = belt problem.
If everything checks out, it should be no prob to swap coils for a S/U test.
BTW, with caps off, check the condition of the spring loaded carbon central contact for freedom of movement and a nice domed contact surface - and signs of arcing/carbon tracking .... ditto for the rotor buttons: rare that one fails, but they can also be swapped to check function.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: SoCal
thanks for answers.
to clarify:
with both distributors coils plugged in - the car runs good. Sometimes when is wet it has a ruff idle.
I wanted to do some testing to check what might be a problem....
So to make sure:
engine should run with only one distributor working - either primary or secondary?
is this correct?
Regards,
Stan
to clarify:
with both distributors coils plugged in - the car runs good. Sometimes when is wet it has a ruff idle.
I wanted to do some testing to check what might be a problem....
So to make sure:
engine should run with only one distributor working - either primary or secondary?
is this correct?
Regards,
Stan
I suspect that the final ignition (triggering) is not working on your secondary coil. From your description it sounds like there is no spark at all from the secondary. Early 993's have a stand alone trigger and the later models trigger the coil directly from the DME. I will try to dig up the diagnostic procedure.
Racer
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From: SoCal
here is the diagnostic procedure for misfire but it has some information for checking the ignition system.
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My car came with Bosch wires and caps, I have replaced the wires with BERU and have been running with them for years using either Bosch or BERU caps, replace caps & rotors every two years or so. . It is interesting to note that the terminal posts on the two brands of caps look to be a little different. One has ridges one does not and the feel of the wire snap in is different. However I have had good running with both in matched sets and mixed brands.
Some say cleaning out and buffing the internal contact points in the caps and rotors will extend their life. Does anyone have experience with this?
Andy
Some say cleaning out and buffing the internal contact points in the caps and rotors will extend their life. Does anyone have experience with this?
Andy
IMHO, replacement every two yrs. seems somewhat excessive on a part that should last 70k mi. Of course maybe you do 40k per yr...
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Thanks for suggestions.
I checked the ignition coils and don't get any voltage to secondary coil.
I have ordered Ignition Control Module (my car is 94, so it uses separate module).
Hope this will solve the problem.
But I still need to find the problem with primary distributor - if only runs on primary
the engine will quit after minute or so.... If I increase rpm, then it runs. Also, it takes quite many tries and high rpm to start engine with primary only distributor.
(cables are new, but i suspect the plugs).
Thanks
Stan
I checked the ignition coils and don't get any voltage to secondary coil.
I have ordered Ignition Control Module (my car is 94, so it uses separate module).
Hope this will solve the problem.
But I still need to find the problem with primary distributor - if only runs on primary
the engine will quit after minute or so.... If I increase rpm, then it runs. Also, it takes quite many tries and high rpm to start engine with primary only distributor.
(cables are new, but i suspect the plugs).
Thanks
Stan
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From: Canada & the Alps
Its why you need to be careful testing for spark so that you do not damage that module.