Bergvill's Rear Fog Light/Brake Light Conversion Kit Installed
#31
Seeing the third brake light kit was enough to convince me to buy the full line of Tore's LED conversions (LED kit, 3rd brake light kit, and rear foglight kit). Thanks, Tore!
Now, if he'd put out a full interior LED kit, I'd buy that too... (hint)
Now, if he'd put out a full interior LED kit, I'd buy that too... (hint)
#32
Installed Tore's kits (LED conversion, 3rd brakelight, supplemental brakelights at foglight location) over the weekend. It was easier than I expected it to be, and the results are great. The kit essentially doubles the brightness the lights.
Totally worth it.
Totally worth it.
#33
With all that how is your CC behaving?
#35
Most US cars do not have the rear fog light option, most european cars have them. If you have rear fog lights, it is merely a rewiring task to use them as additional brake lights.
If you do not have this option, you will need bulbs, bulb holders and wiring.
Cheers,
Tore
If you do not have this option, you will need bulbs, bulb holders and wiring.
Cheers,
Tore
#37
This is a very straightforward install with two simple splices, but I thought it might be helpful to share a few notes and pictures for future installations of this great new safety product from Tore.
I had already converted the brake lights to Tore's LED's. The difference is remarkable. So increasing the brake lights from two LED lights to four utilizing the empty fog light sockets was compelling. All the more so since I hadn't yet installed Tore's LED reverse lights - a project I had abandoned when I discovered that the center socket screw in the center tail light assembly was stripped and wouldn't come out.
The fog light harness was thoughtfully designed with a connector similar to the connector on the reverse light harness (better, really). This continues to make it a snap to disconnect both harnesses when removing the center tail light assembly.
The toughest part of the installation, IMHO, is the removal of the tedious center tail light. It's not terribly difficult, but the three socket screws and three philips head screws are a bit overkill. There's also a potential to scratch the bumper during the removal process, so take your time, and keep a few cloths on hand. I also found it very helpful to place a few boxes against the rear bumperettes to create a support-stand for the center tail light. This frees your hands up for connecting the harnesses, and also helps avoid scratching the bumper. And keep a screw driver on hand so you can easily disconnect the harness when you slide the center tail light out!
In advance of the project I purchased some "just in case" replacements for the plastic screws securing the plastic cover over the center tail light assembly (Suncoast part # 999-590-036-40-0IC). I also bought a new socket screw to replace the stripped one (Suncoast part #90011911407), and a replacement for the center plastic bushing (Suncoast part# 99363112700).
When removing the four plastic screws securing the plastic cover over the tail light assembly, I used a large screwdriver with electrical tape to help avoid gouging the screws/[Edit! Even takes the screw driver can still gouge. There's a special tool that fits perfectly - a US Nickel. See photo below] Carefully rotate each screw 90 degrees counterclockwise and remove. Be sure to pull all four screws out before attempting to remove the plastic cover, as experience has taught that the screws like to pop out and hide in the engine compartment!
When removing the left and right rear light enclosures, simply remove the fastening screw on each unit. Keep in mind, however, that these units are also secured by several prongs that connect to the center tail light assembly. So gently slide the left and right rear enclosures out and away from the center tail light.
You can splice into either the left or right rear light enclosure. Just make sure you have the harness plug located on that same side.
And make sure to test the lights before putting everything back together. When testing the lights I found the left lamp wasn't lit. This is typically just a matter of making sure the LED bulb has a good connection, but even after gently pulling out both the bottom and side contacts there was still no light. My two splices to the harness had to be working because the right lamp was working fine. A multimeter confirmed that the problem rested in the harness. Despite it being a weekend, Tore was incredibly responsive and offered to repair the harness himself. But I had just done two splices by the brake light, so not a big deal to do two more splices. Tore assisted by email ensuring that I used a proper crimp tool and waterproof shrink tube. It was a quick and simple fix, and Tore will be keeping a close watch on the quality control on future production of the harnesses to hopefully avoid any future repeats of this problem.
All in all this is a relatively easy install, and a vast improvement in safety for our 993's. Thanks Tore for all that you do to improve our cars!
Cheers!
Rear foglight conversion kit is here!
Remove 4 plastic screws by turning counter-clockwise 90 degrees
Carefully pull up plastic cover
Remove the 3 socket screws with allen wrench, and back out the 3 fixing screws so they are flush with top of unit
If you happen to have a stripped socket screw, rip out bushing and drill it out
Center tail light with three socket screws removed, and fixing screws backed out
Remove fastening screws from two rear light enclosures and slide out puling gently away from center tail light
Keep a cloth handy to prevent scratches from hanging lights
Have a screwdriver handy so you can disconnect the harness after sliding out the light assembly. Pry up the two snaps on the left and right side, and simply pull off the connector
Ready to install
Remove the two dummy bulb holders
This is also a great time to replace the reverse lights
With Tore's LED reverse lights
Old dummy bulb holder on left, new LED brake light holder on right. Note that you do not need the thick washer from the dummy bulb holder
Dummy plugs removed
Connect T-Light kit wires to two of the three wires going into rear lamp (Blue goes to the lamp's black/red, and brown goes to brown)
Red/black wire cut
Splicing red/black back together with blue wire. Be sure to get wires all the way in and snap SIDE of splice box closed before squeezing splice
Squeeze splice together carefully using large pliers or plumber's wrench to ensure even pinch
Snap top of splice box closed
Splice kit's brown wire to the brown wires, squeeze splice, and snap closed
When making ready to re-install it's helpful to have a place for the rear light assembly to safely rest. It makes re-connecting and re-assembling much easier.
Make sure to test lamps BEFORE reinstalling. The multimeter confirmed that my harness had a bad connection. Time for a quick re-splice of the harness lines.
Harness all set just in time for the flyover by the Thunderbirds!
Here's the repaired harness using pictured insulated crimps and heat shrink
Ready to plug and play
Successful test run before reinstalling
Installation is reverse of removal
Time for a new project!
I had already converted the brake lights to Tore's LED's. The difference is remarkable. So increasing the brake lights from two LED lights to four utilizing the empty fog light sockets was compelling. All the more so since I hadn't yet installed Tore's LED reverse lights - a project I had abandoned when I discovered that the center socket screw in the center tail light assembly was stripped and wouldn't come out.
The fog light harness was thoughtfully designed with a connector similar to the connector on the reverse light harness (better, really). This continues to make it a snap to disconnect both harnesses when removing the center tail light assembly.
The toughest part of the installation, IMHO, is the removal of the tedious center tail light. It's not terribly difficult, but the three socket screws and three philips head screws are a bit overkill. There's also a potential to scratch the bumper during the removal process, so take your time, and keep a few cloths on hand. I also found it very helpful to place a few boxes against the rear bumperettes to create a support-stand for the center tail light. This frees your hands up for connecting the harnesses, and also helps avoid scratching the bumper. And keep a screw driver on hand so you can easily disconnect the harness when you slide the center tail light out!
In advance of the project I purchased some "just in case" replacements for the plastic screws securing the plastic cover over the center tail light assembly (Suncoast part # 999-590-036-40-0IC). I also bought a new socket screw to replace the stripped one (Suncoast part #90011911407), and a replacement for the center plastic bushing (Suncoast part# 99363112700).
When removing the four plastic screws securing the plastic cover over the tail light assembly, I used a large screwdriver with electrical tape to help avoid gouging the screws/[Edit! Even takes the screw driver can still gouge. There's a special tool that fits perfectly - a US Nickel. See photo below] Carefully rotate each screw 90 degrees counterclockwise and remove. Be sure to pull all four screws out before attempting to remove the plastic cover, as experience has taught that the screws like to pop out and hide in the engine compartment!
When removing the left and right rear light enclosures, simply remove the fastening screw on each unit. Keep in mind, however, that these units are also secured by several prongs that connect to the center tail light assembly. So gently slide the left and right rear enclosures out and away from the center tail light.
You can splice into either the left or right rear light enclosure. Just make sure you have the harness plug located on that same side.
And make sure to test the lights before putting everything back together. When testing the lights I found the left lamp wasn't lit. This is typically just a matter of making sure the LED bulb has a good connection, but even after gently pulling out both the bottom and side contacts there was still no light. My two splices to the harness had to be working because the right lamp was working fine. A multimeter confirmed that the problem rested in the harness. Despite it being a weekend, Tore was incredibly responsive and offered to repair the harness himself. But I had just done two splices by the brake light, so not a big deal to do two more splices. Tore assisted by email ensuring that I used a proper crimp tool and waterproof shrink tube. It was a quick and simple fix, and Tore will be keeping a close watch on the quality control on future production of the harnesses to hopefully avoid any future repeats of this problem.
All in all this is a relatively easy install, and a vast improvement in safety for our 993's. Thanks Tore for all that you do to improve our cars!
Cheers!
Rear foglight conversion kit is here!
Remove 4 plastic screws by turning counter-clockwise 90 degrees
Carefully pull up plastic cover
Remove the 3 socket screws with allen wrench, and back out the 3 fixing screws so they are flush with top of unit
If you happen to have a stripped socket screw, rip out bushing and drill it out
Center tail light with three socket screws removed, and fixing screws backed out
Remove fastening screws from two rear light enclosures and slide out puling gently away from center tail light
Keep a cloth handy to prevent scratches from hanging lights
Have a screwdriver handy so you can disconnect the harness after sliding out the light assembly. Pry up the two snaps on the left and right side, and simply pull off the connector
Ready to install
Remove the two dummy bulb holders
This is also a great time to replace the reverse lights
With Tore's LED reverse lights
Old dummy bulb holder on left, new LED brake light holder on right. Note that you do not need the thick washer from the dummy bulb holder
Dummy plugs removed
Connect T-Light kit wires to two of the three wires going into rear lamp (Blue goes to the lamp's black/red, and brown goes to brown)
Red/black wire cut
Splicing red/black back together with blue wire. Be sure to get wires all the way in and snap SIDE of splice box closed before squeezing splice
Squeeze splice together carefully using large pliers or plumber's wrench to ensure even pinch
Snap top of splice box closed
Splice kit's brown wire to the brown wires, squeeze splice, and snap closed
When making ready to re-install it's helpful to have a place for the rear light assembly to safely rest. It makes re-connecting and re-assembling much easier.
Make sure to test lamps BEFORE reinstalling. The multimeter confirmed that my harness had a bad connection. Time for a quick re-splice of the harness lines.
Harness all set just in time for the flyover by the Thunderbirds!
Here's the repaired harness using pictured insulated crimps and heat shrink
Ready to plug and play
Successful test run before reinstalling
Installation is reverse of removal
Time for a new project!
EDIT: Try using a coin (US Nickel fits perfectly) to remove plastic screws. It fits perfectly and will eliminate the inevitable gouges when using a screwdriver. Works like a charm.
#38
This is great Foxman. Definitely will put the tail lights on my "to do" list; I did the front headlights with Tore's HID kit this past winter and the difference is incredible.
One of the other threads mentioned that doing LED brake lights causes problems with the cruise control. Have you experienced this?
Thanks again for the DIY write up and the pics.
One of the other threads mentioned that doing LED brake lights causes problems with the cruise control. Have you experienced this?
Thanks again for the DIY write up and the pics.
#39
Thanks for the nod smq42, and for the reminder on the cruise control issue. As you note, the LED brake lights apparently eliminate the ability to use the cruise control. I've never used the cruise control feature, but for those that do Tore created an LED smart ballast that re-enables the cruise control while using LED brake lights. http://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/...t-ballast.html
#40
Thanks for the nod smq42, and for the reminder on the cruise control issue. As you note, the LED brake lights apparently eliminate the ability to use the cruise control. I've never used the cruise control feature, but for those that do Tore created an LED smart ballast that re-enables the cruise control while using LED brake lights. http://www.bergvillfx.com/index.php/...t-ballast.html
I have big plans to drive the car to the track in Mt. Tremblant and will definitely need cruise control!