Car won't start
#17
Owner's Man. p 106 - first, connect + lead to + terminal of flat batt & then to + of feed batt.
2nd, connect - lead to - terminal of feed batt, then other end to a suitable earthing point on car with flat batt as far away as possible from batt.
Disconnect in reverse order.
Cheers
2nd, connect - lead to - terminal of feed batt, then other end to a suitable earthing point on car with flat batt as far away as possible from batt.
Disconnect in reverse order.
Cheers
#18
Shiraz beat me to it. Glad that no one has experienced problems or explosions. Batteries can explode if a spark is generated nearby. I know it's simplistic for me to say this but please read your owner's manual for a detailed description. Pos. to Pos., Neg. of charging battery to a good ground on the dead vehicle as far away from the battery as possible. Start the charging car. Let it run for a few minutes. Then start the dead vehicle and let both cars run for a few minutes. To avoid a voltage spike, before disconnecting the cables, turn on a load like the headlights or the blower motor. Then remove cables in the exact reverse order.
Last edited by NC TRACKRAT; 01-24-2015 at 09:19 PM.
#19
Shiraz beat me to it. Glad that no one has experienced problems or explosions. Batteries can explode if a spark is generated nearby. I know it's simplistic for me to say this but please read your owner's manual for a detailed description. Pos. to Pos., Neg. of charging battery to a good ground on the dead vehicle as far away from the battery as possible. Start the charging car. Let it run for a few minutes. Then start the dead vehicle and let both cars run for a few minutes. Remove cables in the exact reverse order but it's really safer to shut off both vehicles and then remove the cables.
#20
I use the spare hold down bolt with no problem, I blew out my OBC when I first got the car and jumped it + to + and - to - on the battery directly when I first got the car and batt was dead. That is also where I trickle charge it in the winter months.
Good Luck
Jack
Good Luck
Jack
#21
If you use a Battery Tender they make a "pigtail" just for that purpose, attach it directly to the battery post clamps and it gives you about 18" cable to plug the tender into so you don't even have to move the carpets to plug in the tender. Mine has a cap that fits on the end of the cable when not in use. I haven't used any other tender in a long while but I would be surprised if other brands don't offer the same thing. These are VERY helpful with motorcycles, esp. when they put the battery in difficult locations.
The Battery Tender pigtail is not intended for jumpstarting the car, it's not designed for that high a current.
The Battery Tender pigtail is not intended for jumpstarting the car, it's not designed for that high a current.
#22
Slightly off-topic but related - I was told when my cars were new to always remove the key from the ignition because even in the "off" position it would leave certain "electronics" powered (in particular the airbag sensors) after shutting down ... the load was enough that it would drain the battery in less than a week.
Not that anyone would ever leave their keys in the car during long term storage, just thought I'd see if anyone has ever heard of / encountered this.
Not that anyone would ever leave their keys in the car during long term storage, just thought I'd see if anyone has ever heard of / encountered this.
#24
Several clicks would generally be a battery, If it is one thud of a click then that would usually be a bad starter. If it is a thud a tap on the starter with a hammer may jar it loose to start, however that does not fix it.
Jack
Jack
#27
#28
Get under the car on the passenger side and have someone try to turn the key. If you here a clunk from the starter motor then the gear is hung up. Google where is the starter motor to locate the exact location so you can be as close as possible while listening.
#29
I even went to the shop where I bought the battery to have it inspected and it's fine.
By checking the main ground, do you mean the positive cable that goes on the battery? If so, yes it's fine and was even replaced 6 months ago as a preventive maintenance.
Tonight, I will go back to see the car and check starter relay (R61).
If it's not the issue, how can I test the starter? And could it be the ignition switch?
Thanks for your help! I appreciate it.
By checking the main ground, do you mean the positive cable that goes on the battery? If so, yes it's fine and was even replaced 6 months ago as a preventive maintenance.
Tonight, I will go back to see the car and check starter relay (R61).
If it's not the issue, how can I test the starter? And could it be the ignition switch?
Thanks for your help! I appreciate it.
#30
When TMC suggests checking your ground, that is the negative cable that attaches to the car body. I posted some pics of it is this thread. Scroll down. Your problem very well may be something else, but these are very easy first steps to try that should be eliminated as the cause.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-removal.html