Shake

Hey guys,

I've had enough, I can't put up with this hanging clutch any longer! So I picked up a used pedal cluster on craigslist with the intent of rebuilding it, putting in the updated kinematic lever, and swapping it for the one in my car. However, much to my pleasant surprise, the craigslist cluster ended up having one of the updated versions of the lever ending in the numbers '02' (the latest lever offered by Porsche ends in the numbers '03', but apparently, the lever ending in '02' isn't supposed to suffer the same problems as the earlier ones did). I'm feeling very indecisive, to replace the lever (at a cost of $90 ) or not. I'm hoping the whole 02 vs 03 thing might have just been some internal bill of materials detail that only identifies the replaced lever, but maybe not an actual physical difference, what say you? I really don't want to have to remove the cluster twice, at the same time, I really don't wanna spend $90 on the lever if I don't have to!

Any input is appreciated, thanks!

71-3.0-911

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...anging_problem

JM993

That seller was me

Leave the cluster alone and throw it on. FWIW, a hanging pedal is not a certainty even with the early cars. I've owned my 95 for 17 years and it's still has its original arm.

Shake

Hah! Thanks dude, I thought you might be lurking around here somewhere

JB 911

Here is another good DIY on hanging clutches

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-bleeding.html

Only thing I wouldn't do is use more pressure with motive. I'd keep it around the lower range he suggests, it comes out slow but fine.

Question, have you bled your slave lately? When I did, I got air in the system as many have and it's a bit of a bugger to get out. (Visions of white flags and flat beds) Once I got it out though my clutch shifted like silk, but only for about a week or so, then it started hanging (it never had before) and I found this thread. A really key part to his success is bleeding the system twice with a weeks driving inbetween imo. If you get air in there(by mistake or by opening the system), it is hard to get it all out perfectly with one bleeding. Once you drive around the last few pockets or bubbles move around and can manifest themselves with a hanging clutch.

I was about to dive into this diy but deciding to bleed my slave one more time first carefully allowing no air in. It fixed my problem. (whew)

993Brendan

Mine was really bad. I replaced the lever but I think my shop did a few other things while installing it. At the end of the day no more hanging pedal!

dpizi

When I replaced the clutch master and slave last summer I also changed the bushings and have not had a problem since. Still using original lever. If it was me I would clean up the new/used cluster and pop it in.

jscott82

I would change it just so I don't have to do the job twice.

I posted this awhile back and don't think anyone has tried it yet. Just remove the kinematic arm altogether. Its simple to do and you can put it back if you don't like it.

The Kinematic was not playing nice with my aftermarket clutch, so I removed it altogether. pedal feel is MUCH improved. I would assume the effect (improved pedal feel/smoothness) would be the on a stock clutch, albeit at the expense of additional pedal pressure.

I would love for someone to try it and post their thoughts.

Mike J

Its not a big deal to pull the pedal cluster out - why dont you try it, and if it starts to hang again, replace it?

I guess it depends if you DIY or not. The only real challenge of changing the cluster is if you fit in that space - I am a bigger guy so find it challenging, especially if I leave the seat in (which I usually do..).

From this thread, its apparently you will get all opinions, so just do what your gut tells you to. I you are a perfectionist, replace the lever and even replace the pivot bushings, clean and regrease the unit before it goes in ...

Cheers,

Mike

IXLR8

I still had the original 1995 lever in mine and never had the so-called hanging issue.

You might want to make sure you system is free of air and then adjust it according to the Porsche service manual.

I did rebuild mine later to check everything and to install a new clutch master and slave cylinder along with a new hose. Here are some pics that might be of help.

vincer77

My clutch pedal has been fine until last year. It started making a squeeking sound, so I cleaned up the box area and sprayed the pivots areas with white lithium grease. The noise stopped until very recently, and now it does not fully return, so I assumed that the bushings are just worn. I will be replacing the bushings here shortly when I do my oil change. Why should I change the pedal? I have a 97 if that makes a difference.

Also, I was told that there are some brass bushings available from Pelican that are upgrades, but I only see the OE stuff listed. Anyone know about this?

IXLR8

Those bushings have a coating on them. It is possible that certain lubes are not compatible with the coating. I used the Porsche lube which looks like a clear silicone grease.

vincer77

Alex, the cleanliness of your car is awe inspiring.

IXLR8

Not my fault. Blame Andreas.

BTW, I don't like guessing as to what that layer of material is on the inside surface of those bushings. Might it be a graphite or Teflon impregnated layer? It was medium-dark grey in color.

Ed Hughes

My lever is original, and did have a bit of hang at the end. The new clutch and slave cylinder a year ago took it all away. I think a sorted clutch system, or lack thereof, is the biggest culprit here-not necessarily the lever.