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Oil Loss After Top End Rebuild

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Old 01-06-2015, 10:27 PM
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vincer77
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I would not consider rings to be part of a top end job. You probably have worn rings. Was there a leak down test done?
Old 01-06-2015, 10:42 PM
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OverBoosted28
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"Top-end "rebuild" means valves, seats, springs, requisite machining, checking tolerances (with care!!!); depending on how else it's "defined" it also includes re-ringing and, with more enthusiasm, p's and c's. As for bottom end, no self-respecting shop or builder would do a full top end and NOT check the bottom. 911 bottom ends are renown for their strength and longevity, and going 300K on the bottom is not unheard of."

Although some may not include the pistons/cylinders/rings, a good "top end" does
Old 01-07-2015, 07:45 AM
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vincer77
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Originally Posted by OverBoosted28
"Top-end "rebuild" means valves, seats, springs, requisite machining, checking tolerances (with care!!!); depending on how else it's "defined" it also includes re-ringing and, with more enthusiasm, p's and c's. As for bottom end, no self-respecting shop or builder would do a full top end and NOT check the bottom. 911 bottom ends are renown for their strength and longevity, and going 300K on the bottom is not unheard of."

Although some may not include the pistons/cylinders/rings, a good "top end" does
I guess I still think in terms of a conventional engine where the cylinders do not separate from the bottom end. But a quart of oil use in 1500 miles kinda negates the "good 'top end' job idea. My guess is that only the heads were done. And when you consider that the mechanic said to "drive it like you stole it" also points to rings not being done.
Old 01-07-2015, 12:42 PM
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Slow Guy
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Originally Posted by Jwolf427
Hey Garth,

Before I check the oil dip stick, I let the oil thermostat open then drive the car some more until the temp gauge gets to the 9 o clock position. Then I leave the car sitting(Running) for a few seconds to check the dip stick. If oil needs to be added, I add a half quart at a time.
As Garth was implying if you're trying to keep the oil level at or very near the "full" mark that may be your problem. Many of us have found our engines like to stay about 1/2 way between the add and full marks. I know on both my 993's if their oil level was above half way it would quickly burn off. Don't add oil until it gets to the "low" mark and see what happens to your consumption. IIRC it's 1.5 L between the low and full marks.
Old 01-07-2015, 12:57 PM
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Mike J
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I keep mine to bottom to 1/3 up the stick for the same reason - these cars seem to like to consume oil when the tank is full. There is LOTS of oil in the system, so that variance of a litre or less is not a problem.

BTW, "stronger valve guides" is not really the terminology to use, the stock valves are soft and tend to wear/oval easily, so hopefully whatever they put in has better wear characteristics.

Its true though, your consumption rate is too high if the engine is tight - so the oil is going somewhere.

What is your mechanic telling you?

Cheers,

Mike
Old 01-07-2015, 06:59 PM
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vincer77
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Great point. When I tried keeping oil level at top of stick, I was burning a lot of oil. I could smell the burning oil as I drove and when parking the car in the garage.
Old 01-07-2015, 11:00 PM
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Slow Guy
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Originally Posted by vincer77
Great point. When I tried keeping oil level at top of stick, I was burning a lot of oil. I could smell the burning oil as I drove and when parking the car in the garage.
I thought I told you about that Vince? I know it's been a few years.
Old 01-08-2015, 12:26 AM
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vincer77
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Originally Posted by 993BillW
I thought I told you about that Vince? I know it's been a few years.
Yes. When I said I was going through a qt every 1500 mi. If you told me when I bought it, went over my head.

How's Florida?
Old 01-08-2015, 01:27 AM
  #24  
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I too, think of a top end as the valve train. This does not include rings, pistons, and cylinder honing. In my head thats rebuilding the motor, less the bottom end.



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