First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
07-07-2014, 11:14 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
Howdy
I have been doing some reading here and have yet to come across the NEEDED or Necessary parts List.
At this point In my Opinion I think I can get by with just pads and Change Sensors but what else should be done?
What should I be paying close attention to?
My car has Original Rear brakes 136,000 Miles - 1997 Carrera
Front Rotors and Pads were changed 60,000 Miles ago. 1st Change.
Those Front Rotors look to only have Normal wear and appear to be within 1 MM runout and if I read correctly the Rotor measures 32MM. See 1st Pic.
Pics attached - Front 1st and Rear 2nd.
Rear calipers have Never been touched. Rotor Measures 23MM 2nd Pic
I am doing some Driving Events soon so thinkin PBR Pads so they would attach quickly to these worn rotors.
Most of my driving is street till now.
So who knows what is actually needed here?
Your insights are welcomed and encouraged.
Thanks for your time, in advance.
TJ
I have been doing some reading here and have yet to come across the NEEDED or Necessary parts List.
At this point In my Opinion I think I can get by with just pads and Change Sensors but what else should be done?
What should I be paying close attention to?
My car has Original Rear brakes 136,000 Miles - 1997 Carrera
Front Rotors and Pads were changed 60,000 Miles ago. 1st Change.
Those Front Rotors look to only have Normal wear and appear to be within 1 MM runout and if I read correctly the Rotor measures 32MM. See 1st Pic.
Pics attached - Front 1st and Rear 2nd.
Rear calipers have Never been touched. Rotor Measures 23MM 2nd Pic
I am doing some Driving Events soon so thinkin PBR Pads so they would attach quickly to these worn rotors.
Most of my driving is street till now.
So who knows what is actually needed here?
Your insights are welcomed and encouraged.
Thanks for your time, in advance.
TJ
Last edited by TJ993; 07-07-2014 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Pics
07-07-2014, 11:21 PM
#2
I just got a quote for a full brake job from Sunset with everything included. I'll PM you a copy of the invoice, There were Rotors, Pads, Rotor screws, Caliper mount bolts, Sensors, Vibration dampers, and shoes for the parking brake drums.
I think the general consensus is buy Genuine Porsche or anything else will squeal.
I think the general consensus is buy Genuine Porsche or anything else will squeal.
07-07-2014, 11:34 PM
#3
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Stick with Porsche pads if you want it to be quiet - and they give good breaking power for most events, unless you are really pushing the car or racing.
All you need it a set of pads, wear sensors (or just tie them off - they are a waste of money anyways), and the dampers (spiders) to prevent squealing. If the disks are below spec, replace them, but you have no cracking to worry about.
If you are paranoid, then replace the front caliper bolts when you pull the calipers, which I like to do otherwise the dampers get in the way to remove the pads. If you are not paranoid, re-use the bolts but use some blue locktit on them.
Cheers,
Mike
All you need it a set of pads, wear sensors (or just tie them off - they are a waste of money anyways), and the dampers (spiders) to prevent squealing. If the disks are below spec, replace them, but you have no cracking to worry about.
If you are paranoid, then replace the front caliper bolts when you pull the calipers, which I like to do otherwise the dampers get in the way to remove the pads. If you are not paranoid, re-use the bolts but use some blue locktit on them.
Cheers,
Mike
07-08-2014, 01:13 AM
#4
I like to skim cut the rotors as long as there is sufficient meat to preclude going under min spec. This gives a fresh surface for bedding in the new brake pads.
P.s. 1 mm of rotor runout is WAY to much! Did you check this with a dial indicator, or did you eyeball the runout?
1mm is .0393" and that's huge in rotor runout
Those Front Rotors look to only have Normal wear and appear to be within 1 MM runout
1mm is .0393" and that's huge in rotor runout
07-08-2014, 12:36 PM
#6
Banned
Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
Hi Mike
I am thinking there is enough meat left in the rotors that PBR Low Semi-Metallic Pads will work themselves onto the rotors.
I will be doing DE events.
My thoughts are when I get up to speed, Install New Rotors with a dedicated track pad which I can Change to and from for the street.
The Textar pads - I have read apparently stick to the \rotor when pushed. Thoughts Experience/s?
The Pad Tension Springs? These have never been Changed. Do they last ? Should these be changed? What other parts should be changed or looked at Closely?
Our cars are 18 - 20 years of age. So are foir example the Tension Springs which hold the pads in place
I am concerned that the calipers should come off and be Lubricated \inspected?
What parts normally needs to be looked at? Replaced?
Thanks Tom
I am thinking there is enough meat left in the rotors that PBR Low Semi-Metallic Pads will work themselves onto the rotors.
I will be doing DE events.
My thoughts are when I get up to speed, Install New Rotors with a dedicated track pad which I can Change to and from for the street.
The Textar pads - I have read apparently stick to the \rotor when pushed. Thoughts Experience/s?
The Pad Tension Springs? These have never been Changed. Do they last ? Should these be changed? What other parts should be changed or looked at Closely?
Our cars are 18 - 20 years of age. So are foir example the Tension Springs which hold the pads in place
I am concerned that the calipers should come off and be Lubricated \inspected?
What parts normally needs to be looked at? Replaced?
Thanks Tom
Stick with Porsche pads if you want it to be quiet - and they give good breaking power for most events, unless you are really pushing the car or racing.
All you need it a set of pads, wear sensors (or just tie them off - they are a waste of money anyways), and the dampers (spiders) to prevent squealing. If the disks are below spec, replace them, but you have no cracking to worry about.
If you are paranoid, then replace the front caliper bolts when you pull the calipers, which I like to do otherwise the dampers get in the way to remove the pads. If you are not paranoid, re-use the bolts but use some blue locktit on them.
Cheers,
Mike
All you need it a set of pads, wear sensors (or just tie them off - they are a waste of money anyways), and the dampers (spiders) to prevent squealing. If the disks are below spec, replace them, but you have no cracking to worry about.
If you are paranoid, then replace the front caliper bolts when you pull the calipers, which I like to do otherwise the dampers get in the way to remove the pads. If you are not paranoid, re-use the bolts but use some blue locktit on them.
Cheers,
Mike
Last edited by TJ993; 07-08-2014 at 12:43 PM. Reason: edit
07-08-2014, 12:42 PM
#7
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I have not had any of the Porsche supplied pads stick to rotors if the calipers are in good shape, on the street or track events. You can get some rust-stick if you wash the car and it sits, but that is very minor.
I do not know your skill at DE's events, but the majority of the people at these events are find on stock pads. I do not know the characteristics of PBR pads, so no clue how they will work with used rotors,
You can pull the calipers off, the only visual inspection items are the pads, rubber boots for the pistons, and the brake lines themselves. I would make sure my brake fluid was fresh if I was doing to push the car hard on the track.
Cheers,
Mike
I do not know your skill at DE's events, but the majority of the people at these events are find on stock pads. I do not know the characteristics of PBR pads, so no clue how they will work with used rotors,
You can pull the calipers off, the only visual inspection items are the pads, rubber boots for the pistons, and the brake lines themselves. I would make sure my brake fluid was fresh if I was doing to push the car hard on the track.
Cheers,
Mike
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07-08-2014, 12:47 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
For now just eye balling the rotor for runout.
Rotors were measured - and are thick enough. See the pics - I consider the wear pattern as normal.
I am thinkin for street use these rotors have lots of miles left in them.
The PBR should adhere to these rotors - my thoughts.
I guess they can be turned or ground - do not know the difference or which method is preferred\\\\\\/
Rotors were measured - and are thick enough. See the pics - I consider the wear pattern as normal.
I am thinkin for street use these rotors have lots of miles left in them.
The PBR should adhere to these rotors - my thoughts.
I guess they can be turned or ground - do not know the difference or which method is preferred\\\\\\/
I like to skim cut the rotors as long as there is sufficient meat to preclude going under min spec. This gives a fresh surface for bedding in the new brake pads.
P.s. 1 mm of rotor runout is WAY to much! Did you check this with a dial indicator, or did you eyeball the runout?
1mm is .0393" and that's huge in rotor runout
P.s. 1 mm of rotor runout is WAY to much! Did you check this with a dial indicator, or did you eyeball the runout?
1mm is .0393" and that's huge in rotor runout
07-08-2014, 12:52 PM
#9
Banned
Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
My first \de event.
My qualifier ate my front pads. Intro school.
I would like to save the rotors for street use.
I have Flushed the \brakes - \thanks.
Just picked up \stainless Lines - so will put these on at the same time as the new pads.
My qualifier ate my front pads. Intro school.
I would like to save the rotors for street use.
I have Flushed the \brakes - \thanks.
Just picked up \stainless Lines - so will put these on at the same time as the new pads.
I have not had any of the Porsche supplied pads stick to rotors if the calipers are in good shape, on the street or track events. You can get some rust-stick if you wash the car and it sits, but that is very minor.
I do not know your skill at DE's events, but the majority of the people at these events are find on stock pads. I do not know the characteristics of PBR pads, so no clue how they will work with used rotors,
You can pull the calipers off, the only visual inspection items are the pads, rubber boots for the pistons, and the brake lines themselves. I would make sure my brake fluid was fresh if I was doing to push the car hard on the track.
Cheers,
Mike
I do not know your skill at DE's events, but the majority of the people at these events are find on stock pads. I do not know the characteristics of PBR pads, so no clue how they will work with used rotors,
You can pull the calipers off, the only visual inspection items are the pads, rubber boots for the pistons, and the brake lines themselves. I would make sure my brake fluid was fresh if I was doing to push the car hard on the track.
Cheers,
Mike
07-08-2014, 01:08 PM
#10
If the disks still meet the min spec after measurement, keep them. You will be fine with Textar pads. If you pick up speed and experience, you can make the move to new disks (OEM from Sunset) and a better pad in the front. I always fared well with Ferrodo DS 2500 in the front and Textar in the back, even now in the most advanced group. And do not forget to bleed the brakes with at least ATE200.
One thing to consider: If you are doing DEs regularly, you should toss the wear sensors as you will inspect, bleed (and replace) your brakes regularly. This will be much easier without the wear sensors that can be soldered at the end of the cable to suppress the brake warning light.
One thing to consider: If you are doing DEs regularly, you should toss the wear sensors as you will inspect, bleed (and replace) your brakes regularly. This will be much easier without the wear sensors that can be soldered at the end of the cable to suppress the brake warning light.
07-08-2014, 01:17 PM
#11
Banned
Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts Are Really Needed
ROTORS MEASURED 32 FRONT AND 23 REAR.
Of course the rotors are now grooved, so going back to \textar would not be possible unless \i turned th rotors.
i figured without turning or resurfacing rotors a Low Semi -Metallic \pbr will work on existing \rotors. These pads have worked real well on my bmw 540.
The \track is a \high speed track but I doubt I will be allowed to go at sped for awhile Plus these cars truly have amazing braking - \Far above my skill to date.
I figure seat time First before any Instructor will permit me to do high speed Cornering / manouvers on track
I will look into the Ferodo.
Thanks Tom
Of course the rotors are now grooved, so going back to \textar would not be possible unless \i turned th rotors.
i figured without turning or resurfacing rotors a Low Semi -Metallic \pbr will work on existing \rotors. These pads have worked real well on my bmw 540.
The \track is a \high speed track but I doubt I will be allowed to go at sped for awhile Plus these cars truly have amazing braking - \Far above my skill to date.
I figure seat time First before any Instructor will permit me to do high speed Cornering / manouvers on track
I will look into the Ferodo.
Thanks Tom
If the disks still meet the min spec after measurement, keep them. You will be fine with Textar pads. If you pick up speed and experience, you can make the move to new disks (OEM from Sunset) and a better pad in the front. I always fared well with Ferrodo DS 2500 in the front and Textar in the back, even now in the most advanced group. And do not forget to bleed the brakes with at least ATE200.
One thing to consider: If you are doing DEs regularly, you should toss the wear sensors as you will inspect, bleed (and replace) your brakes regularly. This will be much easier without the wear sensors that can be soldered at the end of the cable to suppress the brake warning light.
One thing to consider: If you are doing DEs regularly, you should toss the wear sensors as you will inspect, bleed (and replace) your brakes regularly. This will be much easier without the wear sensors that can be soldered at the end of the cable to suppress the brake warning light.
07-08-2014, 01:58 PM
#12
Drifting
Forget about "track" pads. Go OEM since most of your driving is street. In your first DE, or first years of AX/DE, the thing to focus on is the driver. The weakest link in your/my/anyone's car, is the driver... Running on street gear (brakes, tires especially) allows you to learn the limits at lower (safer!) speeds.
In the future, you will know when your skills have caught up to the car's abilities. That's the time to worry about tires and pads, etc.
my2c,
07-08-2014, 03:13 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
First Brake Job - What Parts are Needed ?
Hey Keith
I have decided to go with the PBR Pads. on existing Rotors.
Rotors have enough meat, IMHO The pbr should adhere to the rotor.
Down the road I will install New Rotors and Look into dedicated Track Pads.
Now I need to know or would like to know what needs attention in the brakes and Calipers?
So Pads - Purchased
Sensors - Ordered
Spiders - Not sure necessary - But will order.
Caliper Bolts - Will Order
Fluid Change - Done
New Stainless Steel Lines - Acquired - To be Installed / Re-Bleed ABS re 220 LSD.
Caliper Inspection / Parts - I gather I will not know what is needed till I open these up? I figure 18 years of use. There must be a List of Usual Suspects?
Rubber Boots for the pistons - Thx Mike
Tension Springs - Inspect ? Not Change after being on the car for 18 Years? ?
Now if I could find someone local to assist / educate me to do the job properly!
I have decided to go with the PBR Pads. on existing Rotors.
Rotors have enough meat, IMHO The pbr should adhere to the rotor.
Down the road I will install New Rotors and Look into dedicated Track Pads.
Now I need to know or would like to know what needs attention in the brakes and Calipers?
So Pads - Purchased
Sensors - Ordered
Spiders - Not sure necessary - But will order.
Caliper Bolts - Will Order
Fluid Change - Done
New Stainless Steel Lines - Acquired - To be Installed / Re-Bleed ABS re 220 LSD.
Caliper Inspection / Parts - I gather I will not know what is needed till I open these up? I figure 18 years of use. There must be a List of Usual Suspects?
Rubber Boots for the pistons - Thx Mike
Tension Springs - Inspect ? Not Change after being on the car for 18 Years? ?
Now if I could find someone local to assist / educate me to do the job properly!
TJ993,
Forget about "track" pads. Go OEM since most of your driving is street. In your first DE, or first years of AX/DE, the thing to focus on is the driver. The weakest link in your/my/anyone's car, is the driver... Running on street gear (brakes, tires especially) allows you to learn the limits at lower (safer!) speeds.
In the future, you will know when your skills have caught up to the car's abilities. That's the time to worry about tires and pads, etc.
my2c,
Forget about "track" pads. Go OEM since most of your driving is street. In your first DE, or first years of AX/DE, the thing to focus on is the driver. The weakest link in your/my/anyone's car, is the driver... Running on street gear (brakes, tires especially) allows you to learn the limits at lower (safer!) speeds.
In the future, you will know when your skills have caught up to the car's abilities. That's the time to worry about tires and pads, etc.
my2c,
Last edited by TJ993; 07-08-2014 at 06:52 PM. Reason: info - ERROR
08-08-2014, 04:36 PM
#14
Banned
Thread Starter
Actually went well. Re-Used the Spiders - came off easily with a scraper. Replaced the Springs /Clips - Front Only. Vented Reservoir - Opened slightly - Small spillage while compressing the Pistons - absorbed with workshop Towels. Nothing Spilled !! Installed PBR Pads - these are adhering slowly to the Old Rotors. So far so Good ! The car stops. Awesome experience for my First Brake Job. Thanks Everyone!!
RL _ What An AWESOME Place !!
RL _ What An AWESOME Place !!
08-08-2014, 09:42 PM
#15
TJ,
Regarding turning rotors vs grinding rotors...
Its difficult enough to find an automotive machine shop, and more so in this day and age of throw away China parts.
This being said, Mike is correct in that the prefered surface finish is that of blanchard grinding the rotor surface parallel to the mounting face. Not many machine shops have a blanchard grinder any longer...
With this in mind, I had my rotors turned by an automotive machine shop who had a rotor turning machine (dummied down lathe). The resulting finish was very good, and the rotor faces ran within .001 TIR (total indicator runout). Perfect for the purpose of bedding in new pads on flat rotors.
HTH
Regarding turning rotors vs grinding rotors...
Its difficult enough to find an automotive machine shop, and more so in this day and age of throw away China parts.
This being said, Mike is correct in that the prefered surface finish is that of blanchard grinding the rotor surface parallel to the mounting face. Not many machine shops have a blanchard grinder any longer...
With this in mind, I had my rotors turned by an automotive machine shop who had a rotor turning machine (dummied down lathe). The resulting finish was very good, and the rotor faces ran within .001 TIR (total indicator runout). Perfect for the purpose of bedding in new pads on flat rotors.
HTH