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side engine tin question

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Old 05-14-2014, 02:46 PM
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lopro
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Default side engine tin question

Does the exhaust strap need to be loosened to remove the side engine tins?

I have all the allen bolts an the 3 10mm bolts removed from the left (driver) side tin but I cant seem to budge it

anyone have any tricks or suggestions?
Old 05-14-2014, 03:01 PM
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therossinator
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The bracket that holds the muffler in place uses the same bolts that hold the engine tin in place. I'm not sure the muffler strap needs to be loosened to remove the bracket. They are 6mm hex bolts. As I recall it will be really tight and the bolts are 1) torqued down very tightly and 2) as soft as the seat rail bolts. I needed bolt extractor sockets to get then it.

There are 2 bolts on the fwd side of the left tin and one is well hidden and quite awkward to get out.

Last edited by therossinator; 05-14-2014 at 03:19 PM.
Old 05-14-2014, 03:07 PM
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lopro
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once bolts were removed did the tin come out from the bottom or the top into the engine bay?

I have all bolts removed but it wont budge
Old 05-14-2014, 03:20 PM
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therossinator
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The bottom. It will come out without a lot of effort.
Removings the muffler will more than likely be necessary.
Old 05-14-2014, 03:24 PM
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Vorsicht
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There are also some small phillips-head screws that need to come out. IFRC they are at the ends of the tin. A couple of them connect with the corresponding tin at the 90 degree point if that makes sense.
Old 05-14-2014, 03:42 PM
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interesting, I note 2 10mm bolts and 1 at the end by the black heater elbow

I don't see any Philips head screws anywhere...
Old 05-14-2014, 03:55 PM
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Mike J
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no phillips screws i remember - on the right side for instance, there are three hex bolts, one of which holds the muffler strap, a 10mm bolt holding the clutch vent tube, and a 10mm bolt holding the other end of the tin on. There are variances in the tin work as well, but fundamentally they are very similar.

Drop the muffler and remove the muffler support - loosen the 13 mm bolt at the bottom end of the support that attaches to the cam carrier so it can slip out and remove the hex bolt at the top.

As an hint, if you remove the rubber vent hose, put a small cloth in the opening of the heat exchanger so no parts/bolts drop in there. If the parts are stainless steel, you will not be able to fish them out with a magnet...

Cheers,

Mike
Old 05-14-2014, 04:04 PM
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Vorsicht
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Mayby they are bolts - here is the location I am thinking of:
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:06 PM
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Mike J
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yup, bolts! :-)
Old 05-14-2014, 04:07 PM
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Vorsicht
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Originally Posted by Mike J

As an hint, if you remove the rubber vent hose, put a small cloth in the opening of the heat exchanger so no parts/bolts drop in there. If the parts are stainless steel, you will not be able to fish them out with a magnet...

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 05-14-2014, 05:43 PM
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thanks, Im notching for the JRZ rear shock canisters install. Muffler clamp bolt broke ofcourse.
It was sure helpful to know which way they came out
thanks guys
Old 12-07-2015, 11:58 AM
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EMBPilot
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Question

Originally Posted by Vorsicht
Mayby they are bolts - here is the location I am thinking of:
Does anyone here have a tried and true technique for replacing the forward, drivers side, lower 10mm bolt that secures the drivers side engine tin? (lower arrow in Vorsichts photo)

this bolt is not so bad to take out but its a real bear to put back in. There is part of the suspension sub frame in the way blocking any real access to this location while the engine is in the car.
Old 12-07-2015, 12:38 PM
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It's a tough one - next time I am in there I am going to try this one, but not even sure I can get my finger in there. I think I have used needle-nosed pliers and surgical forceps last time. The good thing is that side does not have to normally come off ...






http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...363,42356&ap=1

Cheers,

Mike
Old 12-07-2015, 01:15 PM
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bruce7
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Originally Posted by EMBPilot
Does anyone here have a tried and true technique for replacing the forward, drivers side, lower 10mm bolt that secures the drivers side engine tin? (lower arrow in Vorsichts photo)

this bolt is not so bad to take out but its a real bear to put back in. There is part of the suspension sub frame in the way blocking any real access to this location while the engine is in the car.
I've had to do this a couple of times. Was meaning to provide a tip in my
writeup on changing the valve lifters but it slipped through the cracks I guess.
The first time I did this I lost the bolt and it took a half hour to find it. Using a
mirror and flashlight I found it had dropped into one of the crevices of the
suspension sub frame. A magnetic pickup tool was just barely able to get
ahold of it.

Eventually I found a technique to replace the bolt that works but is still tricky.
In the photo below are the tools that I used.





The procedure for the lower bolt was to use a narrow box end wrench to place
the bolt into the hole from below. Then reaching from above place one finger
onto the head of the bolt. Tighten the bolt just enough to get it started then
switch to the ratchet box end wrench to finish it up. The long extension setup
shown was used on the upper bolt.

After struggling with this I started looking into converting to a Dzus faster.
I think this would be really slick solution but I couldn't be down that long
to work on it.

-bruce
Old 12-07-2015, 01:18 PM
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JB 911
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I'll make confession. I try to treat my car right. . When it came to that bolt, I made the executive decision that tin is not falling off without that bolt in place.


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