Car Barn Permit Submitted
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys
I am actually planning on (2) massive footings below the lift area, measuring 24" x 96" with a slab thickness of 16" reinforced with rebar. The hardest part was figuring out which bay to put the lift. The center front bay would be nice to have the ability to walk around it, but then it is such a focal point of the space, i do want it to also be a cool place to hang out with my kids.
So far all i have to park in there is my 993, i have a bmw 335 that will be in the regular garage and a truck i keep at work, Once i have this done, i would love to get a project car of some sort, preferably an SC for the track, something i can do a little wrenching on.
I am pretty green when it comes to performing service on cars, but it is something i have always wanted to learn, figure if i build the space i can get some handy friends to come over and use the space and teach me a thing or two while they are there.
I am actually planning on (2) massive footings below the lift area, measuring 24" x 96" with a slab thickness of 16" reinforced with rebar. The hardest part was figuring out which bay to put the lift. The center front bay would be nice to have the ability to walk around it, but then it is such a focal point of the space, i do want it to also be a cool place to hang out with my kids.
So far all i have to park in there is my 993, i have a bmw 335 that will be in the regular garage and a truck i keep at work, Once i have this done, i would love to get a project car of some sort, preferably an SC for the track, something i can do a little wrenching on.
I am pretty green when it comes to performing service on cars, but it is something i have always wanted to learn, figure if i build the space i can get some handy friends to come over and use the space and teach me a thing or two while they are there.
#18
Looks like a great design. I just finished building one very similar to yours even down to the shed dormer for a client. Also had several timber elements too. Looks like your's is gong to turn out very nice!
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
#20
Rennlist Member
Great looking barn!
You might want to also run your 2" insulation vertically up along the perimeter of the foundation to thermally decouple the slab from the foundation. I forget the calculated loss (check the Garage Journal Forum), but supposedly, there is a lot of heat loss out the ends of the slab if you don't.
I just built a 32' x 27' garage and put 800' of pex tubing in the slab with three zones. I put down 2" rigid foam board under the slab, and vertically around the inside of the foundation. The vertical insulation is cut at 45° where it meets the top of the slab.
Shawn
You might want to also run your 2" insulation vertically up along the perimeter of the foundation to thermally decouple the slab from the foundation. I forget the calculated loss (check the Garage Journal Forum), but supposedly, there is a lot of heat loss out the ends of the slab if you don't.
I just built a 32' x 27' garage and put 800' of pex tubing in the slab with three zones. I put down 2" rigid foam board under the slab, and vertically around the inside of the foundation. The vertical insulation is cut at 45° where it meets the top of the slab.
Shawn
#21
Rennlist Member
Todd, I'm assuming your the owner of TRBuilt? I've seen the barn/man cave (not inside) that is featured on the web site. I'm a painting contractor in the area, & I worked on the house behind that property. We watched that barn go up.- admiring it the whole way.
Looks like yours will be nice.
On a side note, I lived on Vitti St. for awhile, now up in Bethel. We had a garage/barn built by The Barn Yard a couple years ago so now I'm searching for a 911 to put in it.
Good luck with the project, I'd love to see it.
GA
Looks like yours will be nice.
On a side note, I lived on Vitti St. for awhile, now up in Bethel. We had a garage/barn built by The Barn Yard a couple years ago so now I'm searching for a 911 to put in it.
Good luck with the project, I'd love to see it.
GA
#22
Rennlist Member
Nice project, Todd. Looks like like you have designed enough man caves for others, time to build your own ! Just don't get too busy to squeeze in a few track days this season (ie Limerock/Thompson).
Bill
Bill
#23
Rennlist Member
Looks like it's going to be an awesome build. Good luck with the town and their inspectors, etc.
Keep us updated with pics here or a link to a Garagejournal.com thread.
Keep us updated with pics here or a link to a Garagejournal.com thread.
#24
Toddster,
Nice looking plans. I have a similar size building, it fills quickly. For lift placement I used a rectangle of a bay the width of the bay roughly ~15ft by 4ft, this way you have A)plenty of room to move it about and position depending which lift mfg you go with it can vary B) Easier to locate than 2 isolated piers. I had it trenched deeper ~14" or so plenty of base support. Upgrade the concrete to at least 6" for all floor depth, I used fibermesh and rebar square reinforcement @4500psi. This will help minimize cracking. Your foundation guy should know this, but you can't do saw cuts in it with the pex tubing. Just friendly watch outs/2 cents.
rob
Nice looking plans. I have a similar size building, it fills quickly. For lift placement I used a rectangle of a bay the width of the bay roughly ~15ft by 4ft, this way you have A)plenty of room to move it about and position depending which lift mfg you go with it can vary B) Easier to locate than 2 isolated piers. I had it trenched deeper ~14" or so plenty of base support. Upgrade the concrete to at least 6" for all floor depth, I used fibermesh and rebar square reinforcement @4500psi. This will help minimize cracking. Your foundation guy should know this, but you can't do saw cuts in it with the pex tubing. Just friendly watch outs/2 cents.
rob
#27
Drifting
I didn't see a foundation plan that shows the contractor the location of the grade beam but then you didn't post the entire construction set.
One more suggestion: On the interior walls, put a layer of 1/2" CDX plywood down over the studs before the 1/2" GWB. The provides nice blocking for mounting lighter items to the walls otherwise don't forget to install 2X blocking for mounting heavier items to the walls. Even up the 1/2" difference with GWB. I used to spec the plywood behind the GWB for junior high and high school hallways. They have something coming to them when they try punching or kicking a hole in the wall!! Good luck with the build!!
One more suggestion: On the interior walls, put a layer of 1/2" CDX plywood down over the studs before the 1/2" GWB. The provides nice blocking for mounting lighter items to the walls otherwise don't forget to install 2X blocking for mounting heavier items to the walls. Even up the 1/2" difference with GWB. I used to spec the plywood behind the GWB for junior high and high school hallways. They have something coming to them when they try punching or kicking a hole in the wall!! Good luck with the build!!
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
Todd, I'm assuming your the owner of TRBuilt? I've seen the barn/man cave (not inside) that is featured on the web site. I'm a painting contractor in the area, & I worked on the house behind that property. We watched that barn go up.- admiring it the whole way.
Looks like yours will be nice.
On a side note, I lived on Vitti St. for awhile, now up in Bethel. We had a garage/barn built by The Barn Yard a couple years ago so now I'm searching for a 911 to put in it.
Good luck with the project, I'd love to see it.
GA
Looks like yours will be nice.
On a side note, I lived on Vitti St. for awhile, now up in Bethel. We had a garage/barn built by The Barn Yard a couple years ago so now I'm searching for a 911 to put in it.
Good luck with the project, I'd love to see it.
GA
Thanks for the note
Yes that is me, the man cave guy
This will be my own less expensive man cave
I see that you are new to the forum, welcome. I am in redding, just a few minutes from Bethel. How is your 911 search going so far
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
I didn't see a foundation plan that shows the contractor the location of the grade beam but then you didn't post the entire construction set.
One more suggestion: On the interior walls, put a layer of 1/2" CDX plywood down over the studs before the 1/2" GWB. The provides nice blocking for mounting lighter items to the walls otherwise don't forget to install 2X blocking for mounting heavier items to the walls. Even up the 1/2" difference with GWB. I used to spec the plywood behind the GWB for junior high and high school hallways. They have something coming to them when they try punching or kicking a hole in the wall!! Good luck with the build!!
One more suggestion: On the interior walls, put a layer of 1/2" CDX plywood down over the studs before the 1/2" GWB. The provides nice blocking for mounting lighter items to the walls otherwise don't forget to install 2X blocking for mounting heavier items to the walls. Even up the 1/2" difference with GWB. I used to spec the plywood behind the GWB for junior high and high school hallways. They have something coming to them when they try punching or kicking a hole in the wall!! Good luck with the build!!
That would make it super easy to mount any thing on the walls with that in place
#30
I'll post some pics for you. I'd also suggest doing 2x blocking instead of the plywood. The problem with plywood is it doesn't give enough bite for the screws and they can in time fail, plus it'll make it a bitch if you ever have to get in later and access or fish wires. Plus the plywood in time can buckle and cause Sheetrock cracks. Being a builder of over 20 years seen it happen. Unless you use 5/8 or 3/4 id Use 2x12 blocking and should still give you plenty of options if you set them at right height