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Keep in mind that if you get an actual RUF brace then you need to replace the four front strut mount bolts with 24mm long ones. The RUF brace is a straight drop-in for 964's but not on the 993.
The first generation of RUF braces sometimes required new mount bolts for 993 fitment. The current version (at least as of 2012 when I bought mine) is a direct fit for 993's -- no new bolts necessary. This was also confirmed when I asked RUF USA before ordering.
Wouldn't a strut brace be under both tension and/or compression depending on direction of force loading on tire? Modified image from magazine Sport Compact Car
Wouldn't a strut brace be under both tension and/or compression depending on direction of force loading on tire? Modified image from magazine
Yes, it would, but the main concern are the spreading forces that result in the towers (and therefore struts) moving away from each other that causes camber losses at the tire patch.
The whole objective is to maintain whatever static camber settings you are using.
+1 on PerfectPower.
It fits perfectly under carpet and stopped my windshield from creaking. That was almost 4 years ago. No problems since.
I would invest in a nice long allen socket, to make the installation easy, and to avoid stripping any of the nuts.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Yes, it would, but the main concern are the spreading forces that result in the towers (and therefore struts) moving away from each other that causes camber losses at the tire patch.
The whole objective is to maintain whatever static camber settings you are using.
I have the Perfect Power bar also. I havent tried any other ones, but I have been happy with it. After install, I entered a parking lot at 45*, felt the outside wheel lift and come back down to the pavement. So I assume its working...
I've been told by someone who I consider smarter than me that running a strut bar on a car that still runs OEM rubber top mounts makes the effect of the bar moot, since the forces being applied through the suspension are lost in the rubber top mount before they are transferred to the actual unibody.
If you have monoball top mounts, then you'll reap the benefit of the additional rigidity from the strut bar.
Makes sense to me, yet I still run a Rennline bar on my OEM top mount equipped car, lol.
+1 on the 911chips brace; had one for several years and have been satisfied with it.
Originally Posted by Quadcammer
I have a 911chips one. Its hinged. I like that you can pre-load it a bit. Either way, fits fine, seems to have worked ok, but most likely placebo. My windshield does creak less, that may be its only real benefit on a coupe.
OK then! This thread flung me down the slippery slope --- I installed a Perfect Power strut tower brace tonight ---- looking good! I'll go for a drive in the morning to see if it did a good job eliminating the windshield creaking..... (I doubt my senses are tuned enough to feel a difference in turn-in crispness ... especially given the sedate nature of driving on public roads....)
OK then! This thread flung me down the slippery slope --- I installed a Perfect Power strut tower brace tonight ---- looking good! I'll go for a drive in the morning to see if it did a good job eliminating the windshield creaking..... (I doubt my senses are tuned enough to feel a difference in turn-in crispness ... especially given the sedate nature of driving on public roads....)
Looking good! Interested to hear what you think, as I've been thinking about one of these.
Was it at all tricky to install? I thought I heard something about having to be careful to get the torque right on the fasteners on the strut towers. I'm a DIY newbie, so curious.
Well unfortunately I didn't go for a drive because I'm shuttling kids to play dates today but the install was easy. Just don't torque down one side all the way first. Do it evenly. The part of the install that took the longest was in hacking off one leg of the 8mm L shaped Allen key so that I could use it in a socket so that I could get a torque wrench on the nuts.
The part of the install that took the longest was in hacking off one leg of the 8mm L shaped Allen key so that I could use it in a socket so that I could get a torque wrench on the nuts.
Just buy an 8mm Allen key mounted to a drive socket at your local auto store; about $3-$4 and your ready to rock n roll. The whole installation only takes a few minutes.
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