axl911

[QUOTE=RichPugh;11316870]... I realized when I got home that there was this dry black soot all over the rear of the car and exhaust tips which I can attribute to the car running super rich... possibly due to the fact that I removed the electronic valve for the tank vent valve and simply had it routed to the SC intake manifold. I think I read somewhere with that tank vent valve disconnected, it enriches the system? I also have no cats anymore so if it was running rich, it wasnt even trying to burn it up, LOL.

That is correct. During decel when there is vacuum in the intake, the tank vent valve would open to allow the engine to suck in the air from the fuel tank charcoal canister (clearing it). It also richen up the mixture to accomodate the extra air. I eventually found this out when I failed inspection b/c I forgot to reconnect the tank vent valve after an engine drop.

BTW....no problem with accelerating or cruising with the SC bypass ziptied? No odd behavior? I may have to do this to pass emission testing.

RichPugh

So, even though the open tube to the charcoal canister is connected to the manifold, it doesnt suck in air from the charcoal can on vacuum unless the electronic valve is connected? Maybe I'm confused as to what/which tubes do/go where/what? LOL

None. Ran fairly well! I didnt really drive it hard enough to notice any lack in power and torque (although I can only assume without the Varioram, its simply not making the power it should) but the important stuff like idle, return to idle, loping, all seemed fine. I drove it over 200 miles. Some stop/go. A lot of highway. Nothing abnormal at all.

Ducks964

Any update on the stand alone ECU? I am waiting for a VEMS ECU which I will install later this summer.

Ducks964

How is the TPC supercharger working for you?

RichPugh

Been a little busy with other stuff so it's been on the back burner...

After talking to the guys at TPC, I decided to run the plug-n-play Siemens 60lb injectors. Ordered today... when they come in, I'll drive the car down to Tempest Racing, swap injectors, swap ecu's, install the MAP sensor, wire up the wideband controller and lambda and set her up on the Dynapack awd chassis dyno and hope to make 350whp. Till then, I have the recirc valve rigged open so no boost.

RichPugh

(generally transcribed from another thread when asked about HP numbers)

Finally got it on a dyno...

We had a couple of problems at first with my wideband controller sensing the wideband so we opted to use the dyno's wideband for tuning... also we only got a few partial "pulls" in after doing some rpm load-locked tuning.

With that basically, the Dynapack chassis dyno allows you to hold the RPM's at a set point no matter what the throttle position is allowing you to fine tune at different throttle positions and of course full throttle under load. We were able to tune the car at 2500, 3000, 3500, and 4000. It allowed us to dial it in so that at part throttle, mid throttle and full throttle under those rpm points, most importantly in boost, to stay under 11.5 AFR and not ping or float around.

Only when we decided to make a full rpm pass did we encounter issues. Around 4500-5500, it started popping like it was missing. We tried everything from backing more timing out (mild improvement but power loss), adding fuel (would run richer but still miss) adding timing (made more power but missing increased)... we even changed the plugs thinking the stockers (recently replaced even) were blowing out due to wide gaps. Fuel was on the money and we only had like single digit ignition timing at like 6-8 (we're tuning on TunerStudio as the ECU's main board is a MegaSquirt 3)...

We got 252hp at the wheel at 5200 rpm which is barely under what we were expecting at that rpm but we werent able to run it up to 6500-7000 due to the popping/missing. When we added some ignition timing in, power went up a TON (like 30-40hp in some places) but the missing was BAD.

Juuso thinks it might be an engine position sensor issue (crank and/or cam) so were going to check all that and possibly try to run it on a wasted spark setting and a few other ideas to test. 252 HP at the wheels on a dynapack out of a Carrera 4, assuming 15-17% power loss thru the AWD drivetrain, is about 290-300 CrankHP at 5200 rpm with like 1500 rpm more to go. That is about 80-90HP over stock at 5200 rpm, LOL. There is still a LOT of tuning to do with a quite a bit of power still there. Happy so far.

Also, just to note, my A/W intercooler setup works great! We were loading it up and beating on it for a long while on the dyno and the inlet to the manifold right out of the intercooler was cool to the touch. I have the radiator for the coolant system under the pass rear fender behind the wheel (where the old stock muffler goes... I have the Fabspeed RSR full headers & exhaust) so we put a floor fan blowing right into that fenderwell to try to mimmick airflow during driving conditions.

Aiming for 330whp next time. Gotta work my way up

Ducks964

I have the issue of the missing with my Unichip when at high boost (right around 6psi). For the time being i have limited the boost with the adjustment on the bypass valve.

I was contributing my issue to very low AFR's which would see in the 10's at highest boost. However as I researched my tune on the Unichip, I am not sure.

I plan to go the VEMS route as soon as my garage refurb project is done. Will try wasted spark too with Bosch coil packs.

Are you running an EGT and are those temps in line? Sounds like your IC is working better than mine. I am not getting great cooling, but my radiator is in the front. I like your set up but don't think it will work on my 964. I do need a better pump and have to add an overflow tank as my version does not have one.

Good luck.

RichPugh

Ducks,

I dont have a problem at high boost. We load tuned at 4000 rpm under mid and full throttle at full 6psi for 10 seconds straight or so. No missing. Only happened at full boost over 5000rpm really. Fuel was between 10.9 and 11.5 when we were trying to adjust for it. Kinda weird.

techman1

Deleted

RichPugh

No, only a single wideband Lambda (the remaining 3 stock o2's still in the other holes since the heaters still work, they're safe). Radiator up front is supposed to be better for 2 reasons... direct airflow over radiator and longer lines = more coolant. But, with my system consisting of about 7 feet of coolant line and the radiator right behind the rear wheel (near the pass side exhaust header), i wasnt sure how it would work but it has proven to be pretty good. I'm tapping the coolant system with a fluid temp sensor and reading thru a PLX sensor/gauge (along with oil, boost/vac and AFR). The overflow/fill tank is great. I have it so I can pull it out from behind the engine and up higher than the rest of the cooling system so it can be filled and bled well. I added those Koolance quick connect adapters to the intercooler inlet/outlet so it's easily removed for servicing areas under it. With everything connected and the tank filled and bled, the little pump that comes from TPC seems pretty adequate for my setup.

StoutPerformance

Did you guys have any luck eliminating the breakup at higher RPM's. This seems to be a pretty regular issue with the cars that are boosted on a mega squirt. I am tuning a supercharger on mega right now and having the same issue.

Juha G

I believe in this case the problem was just wrong settings. The default ignition spool charging time was too long. I don't know if Rich tried to correct this already.

There is another rennlister with a TPC supercharger system (my previous setup) and has the same ECU so we should soon hear how it works.

RichPugh

Well, I decided to sell the supercharger before I felt like figuring out the tuning issues, LOL. I still plan to keep the ECU and 60lb injectors on with the MAP sensor and wideband lambda when I go back to N/A w/ the stock Varioram intake. I'm pulling the engine to do the RMS and possibly a LWF and RS clutch kit. I hope the Juuso ECU can eliminate stalling and/or rpm hunting with the LWF. otherwise, I can go back to stock without much trouble.

I'll say it definitely ran better when it was cold outside. I took it on a spirited drive just to get a final blast out of my system before I pulled the lump... and it was awesome. it still sputtered over 5k rpm but man I am gonna miss the SC

mr_bock

Rich,

While you are 'in there' check/clean or replace the idle valve (not sure if that is the correct name). With the valve in hand and rocked back and forth, you hear and feel the inner valve part flop back and forth.

My 1996 car has a LWF along with TPC's older SC kit. I have no issues with stalling at all.

Good Luck!!!

Jay J

Juha when you had the VEMS did you run a MAP?