Distribution belt inspection
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From: Charleston, SC
Can not get distributor out even using slide hammer. Now what?
Edited: I did get it out my slide hammer and cable you see in photo. I got it out easily once I change the position of the cable. I initially had it in the center between primary and secondary distr. That did not work so I put cable so it will only support primary dist. when I pull, that is the right angle and it make sense because the secondary is only contact is with the primary.
Edited: I did get it out my slide hammer and cable you see in photo. I got it out easily once I change the position of the cable. I initially had it in the center between primary and secondary distr. That did not work so I put cable so it will only support primary dist. when I pull, that is the right angle and it make sense because the secondary is only contact is with the primary.
Last edited by Ron; Feb 5, 2014 at 02:22 PM.
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From: Canada & the Alps
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From: Charleston, SC
No see photo I think it allows for a better angle when pulling out.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/p1010020_copy1.jpg
Also once out I was able to partially view the belt. The tooth cogged, inside I shall call it appeared as new I could even see I guess you would call it the imprinting of the belt which happens when it's manf. As far as the smooth outside inspection that was harder. Had a push it back with a plastic dental pick and the out of the belt from what I could see did not show signs of wear or deterioration.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/p1010020_copy1.jpg
Also once out I was able to partially view the belt. The tooth cogged, inside I shall call it appeared as new I could even see I guess you would call it the imprinting of the belt which happens when it's manf. As far as the smooth outside inspection that was harder. Had a push it back with a plastic dental pick and the out of the belt from what I could see did not show signs of wear or deterioration.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Lilburn & Blue Ridge, Georgia
Well I worked tonight to get the belt changed out. I tried to use Alan's method but the cog on my primary shaft wouldn't budge. I concluded there was no way I was going to be able to get that belt on and at the same time have everything lined up. So I ended up using IXLR8's method of cutting a hole in the cap under the secondary shaft and just removing the secondary shaft. It was good to clean and grease it anyways.
Everything has gone great but now I'm trying to put that dang clip back on on the bottom of the secondary shaft and it's killing me! I can't even see the groove to get the clip in...it's like I lost some room or tolerance and the shaft isn't sticking out enough. I guess I'll have to pull the shaft out again and reload. Urrrggg! Who the heck designed that clip!
If anyone has a tip I'll take it.
Everything has gone great but now I'm trying to put that dang clip back on on the bottom of the secondary shaft and it's killing me! I can't even see the groove to get the clip in...it's like I lost some room or tolerance and the shaft isn't sticking out enough. I guess I'll have to pull the shaft out again and reload. Urrrggg! Who the heck designed that clip!
If anyone has a tip I'll take it.
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From: Canada & the Alps
You can either do this by hand or using a drill press as a press. I did mine by hand with someone else installing the cir-clip while I pressed down on the body of the distributor.
OR
Place a 3/4" piece of plywood down on the drill press table. Place the rotor shaft end on the plywood (distributor upside down). Turn in the chuck jaws of the drill press and using another piece of strong wood, place it between the drill press chuck and edge of the distributor casing as close as possible to the shaft you are putting that cir-clip on. Drive the drill press chuck down and you will see the shaft rise with the cir-clip groove coming into view.
You might need a second set of hands.
If you stretch the cir-clip, don't take a chance...get another one.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Lilburn & Blue Ridge, Georgia
Alex, thanks for the tips! I'll give your suggestions a try. My son and I were pretty frustrated on that thing last night, especially just getting the cir-clip off.
What I was referring to was your suggestion of drilling the hole and opening up the secondary shaft vs. trying to weasel it in without opening up the full case. I used my dremmel to cut a small slot in the cap and then it came out easily with a small bladed screw driver.
I'll post back the results.
What I was referring to was your suggestion of drilling the hole and opening up the secondary shaft vs. trying to weasel it in without opening up the full case. I used my dremmel to cut a small slot in the cap and then it came out easily with a small bladed screw driver.
I'll post back the results.
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From: Canada & the Alps
The drill press used as a press works perfectly well to compress the Belleville washed when pressing the drive gear down on the primary shaft in order to get the pin into place. I wish I would have thought about using that method when I did my secondary shaft cir-clip which I did first.
Unfortunately, I did it the hard way on the secondary distributor using manual arm force...it was tough.
If you get frustrated, instead of jumping up and down like Yosemite Sam, walk away and try it again in a half-hour.
Unfortunately, I did it the hard way on the secondary distributor using manual arm force...it was tough.
If you get frustrated, instead of jumping up and down like Yosemite Sam, walk away and try it again in a half-hour.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 206
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From: Lilburn & Blue Ridge, Georgia
I finally got that clip back on! I used two sets of clamps putting wood on the top of the distributor and the other end of the clamp on the body just next to the shaft, put some pressure on it and it came into view. The extra set of hands and know how from my son did the trick. Using a press or clamps are the only way to go (both taking off and putting back on)! I had no idea when I was pulling it off the first time the amount of pressure on the shaft / clip.
My clip looks ok at best...seems to be set in there and likely no chance of it coming loose given the pressure. So I might be rolling the dice here. I'm just wondering who would even sell those Circlips.
All I need is the new frost plug from Napa (on order) and i'm on my way.
Alex, thanks for all the advice. I just now clicked on your website. Dude, those are some good photos for this project! Wish I had seen a long time ago.
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Po...echnical-Stuff
My clip looks ok at best...seems to be set in there and likely no chance of it coming loose given the pressure. So I might be rolling the dice here. I'm just wondering who would even sell those Circlips.
All I need is the new frost plug from Napa (on order) and i'm on my way.
Alex, thanks for all the advice. I just now clicked on your website. Dude, those are some good photos for this project! Wish I had seen a long time ago.
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/Cars/Po...echnical-Stuff
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Ventura
So I'm not familiar with Hall sensors, (I looked them up on wikipedia and they seemed to deal with induction rather than physical contact) but I noticed that there was resistance when I was rotating the shaft and that came from the metal cup that rotates around the hall sensor touching the sensor itself. I tried to pry it to an to not cause interference.
Now the car wont start.
I just want to make sure thats the cause before I tear everything up again.
or could I have lined up the timing incorrectly?
Edit: I think I lined things up wrong. I took it out originally not paring attention to the notches in the pulley and when I stuck it back in I moved the car to line up the pulley and put the dizzy in at its proper alignment points. I found out soon that there is more than more than 1 alignment point.
Turns out it was 180 degrees out of sync.
Nevertheless, Hall sensors should not touch anything.
Now the car wont start.
I just want to make sure thats the cause before I tear everything up again.
or could I have lined up the timing incorrectly?
Edit: I think I lined things up wrong. I took it out originally not paring attention to the notches in the pulley and when I stuck it back in I moved the car to line up the pulley and put the dizzy in at its proper alignment points. I found out soon that there is more than more than 1 alignment point.
Turns out it was 180 degrees out of sync.
Nevertheless, Hall sensors should not touch anything.
Last edited by therossinator; Feb 21, 2014 at 08:41 PM. Reason: another possability
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From: Charleston, SC
I missed out on the fun of inspecting bearings and changing belt on my distributor 
I sent mine to Steve at Rennsport. He said condition of distributor was perfect. Belt was changed due to age.
Got it back a few days ago and installed yesterday. Got all those wires reconnected including ones to the distrib. caps correctly. Pulled DME fuel pump relay and cranked starter to circulate oil a little since I changed oil and filters too.
Replaced DME relay and then turned key and engine came to life immediately. Did short test drive and it ran flawlessly.
I sent mine to Steve at Rennsport. He said condition of distributor was perfect. Belt was changed due to age.
Got it back a few days ago and installed yesterday. Got all those wires reconnected including ones to the distrib. caps correctly. Pulled DME fuel pump relay and cranked starter to circulate oil a little since I changed oil and filters too.
Replaced DME relay and then turned key and engine came to life immediately. Did short test drive and it ran flawlessly.
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2014
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Hi guys.
Am I getting it right that until my car starts w/o connecting coil wire to primary distributor (only with coil wire connected to secondary distributor) my belt seems to work fine and I could allow myself just to replace caps and rotors, not bothering with the belt?
Tried this way of verifying my belts operation today: the car had a little "delay" when starting and the idle was twitching for the first 5 seconds, then gone to standard. I assume it's a normal behavior when using only one distributor, right?
Am I getting it right that until my car starts w/o connecting coil wire to primary distributor (only with coil wire connected to secondary distributor) my belt seems to work fine and I could allow myself just to replace caps and rotors, not bothering with the belt?
Tried this way of verifying my belts operation today: the car had a little "delay" when starting and the idle was twitching for the first 5 seconds, then gone to standard. I assume it's a normal behavior when using only one distributor, right?
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From: Bend, OR
It will not run as efficiently on one set of plugs vs two, so you will most likely see a difference.
This only shows the belt is intact, it doesn't say anything as to its condition and longevity, however.
This only shows the belt is intact, it doesn't say anything as to its condition and longevity, however.
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From: Dallas, TX
Alan,
Thanks for the write up,
Your instructions gave me the confidence to consider doing the job DIY.
I will be ordering the parts and will let you know how it goes.
Andy
Thanks for the write up,
Your instructions gave me the confidence to consider doing the job DIY.
I will be ordering the parts and will let you know how it goes.
Andy
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From: kansas
This video doesn't show a whole lot on the rebuild, but it is something. I'm considering this on my C4S. I kinda like the idea of pulling it and letting someone else rebuild it and return. I don't believe mine has ever been serviced on my 96 and it has 72k miles.