Repaint scratch or Leave alone? Thoughts?
01-30-2014, 11:32 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
That's what I do. You spray, then let it dry completely, wet sand any overspray flat to the original paint level. Then spray again, etc. until you fill the pit level with the surrounding paint. Once buffed, you will never see it. No need to deal with Dr. Colorwhatever. I buy a quart of original paint whenever I get a new car. And, that's what I use.
I just did the first air brush coat on the trailing edges of the wheel well openings. Had some visible chips on all 4. Will sand & do 2nd coat this weekend. FYI, I've been working with air brushes since college days (many years ago). They are very forgiving as the volume of paint is very low. You can do a spray pattern of less than an inch in diameter. So, little need of masking.
I just did the first air brush coat on the trailing edges of the wheel well openings. Had some visible chips on all 4. Will sand & do 2nd coat this weekend. FYI, I've been working with air brushes since college days (many years ago). They are very forgiving as the volume of paint is very low. You can do a spray pattern of less than an inch in diameter. So, little need of masking.
01-30-2014, 12:44 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
This is extreme but you could remove the original bumper and store "as is" and go with a euro bumper painted to match.
Best of both worlds.
Scratch and chip free and maintaining originality.
Plus getting started on the slippery slope. :-)
Best of both worlds.
Scratch and chip free and maintaining originality.
Plus getting started on the slippery slope. :-)
01-31-2014, 10:08 AM
#19
Respectfully...this is the classic example of someone who has learned the techniques of a relatively delicate task...modifying car paint...and forgotten how difficult/delicate the process actually is. You have been using the air-brush, sanding, painting, for so long, that you forget what is "easy" for you is actually not so much for most others. BTW....I would love to be able to do what you are talking about...but I'm too scared I'll screw it up....
You're correct. But, you can practice on pieces of scrap metal. The spray from an air brush is a fine mist that can be done in such light layers as to be barely seen. For example, the stone chips I'm working on around the wheel wells - after this first coat, you can still see the dark metal or primer through the white paint. It will take many layers to totally cover and conceal the chips. A dab of paint will do it faster, but not as delicately. And, may still be visible. A DPO of my Maserati did that on the hood. I never could get it to disappear.
01-31-2014, 02:08 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Allen,
You're correct. But, you can practice on pieces of scrap metal. The spray from an air brush is a fine mist that can be done in such light layers as to be barely seen. For example, the stone chips I'm working on around the wheel wells - after this first coat, you can still see the dark metal or primer through the white paint. It will take many layers to totally cover and conceal the chips. A dab of paint will do it faster, but not as delicately. And, may still be visible. A DPO of my Maserati did that on the hood. I never could get it to disappear.
02-01-2014, 11:22 AM
#21
With metallic, you have the problem on larger areas of the metallic particles not laying out the same as they did in factory spray booth. That's when you need a pro to do painting.
But, as long as you air brush paint in light layers into minor scratches and chips & wet sand flat after each spray, you should be able to do it. I was able to do it on the trunk of the metallic Bordeaux Maser to a scratch about 1-1/2" long that was down to the primer. It took care and eliminating the overspray & then polishing.
Always try in an inconspicuous spot first if your first time. Or, pick up a piece of scrap body part from a local body shop, they always have some pieces that have discarded, and practice on that.
Remember, you are going to build the "fill" over a number of sprays, not all at one time as you would with a touch-up brush.
