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Old 01-17-2014, 07:30 PM
  #76  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
If the car is tracked much don't for get to use the motorsports bearings, the stockers use a plastic shell that isn't up to the heat and stress
Solid-gold advice!
Old 01-17-2014, 08:20 PM
  #77  
e9stibi
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Originally Posted by Martin S.
$10,000 may be conservative if you do it right.

Check out gear prices…at G-Box, California Motorsports: New at about $1,000 a gear set…on a 3rd - 5th replacement, you'll need at least three (3) gear, that's $3,000. Some machining is involved to make your present 5th, 6th, $500? We are at $3,500

Steel Synchos at $300 a pop. You'll need at least three…3rd, 4th and 5th. There is another grand….up to $4,400

You should also add forged shifter forks, about $600 for both, 1st 2nd, 3rd-4th. Now up to $5,000.

Since you will be driving the car a little harder, you should add a forged side cover to the tranny, keeps the LSD from moving around. About $350. Now at $5,350

Of course you'll need a Golden Rod and a Factory Short Shifter $500? Now at $5,840

Since you will be maxing out performance, you'll need RS tranny mount and two RS motor mounts, $1,000..now $6,850

Figure labor, I understand that $2,000 is pretty typical. Now at $8,850, best case scenario,,,that is, if nothing else needs replacement.

Now there are the while your in there costs…RMS, a clutch, maybe a LWF. And there are misc. bearing that may/will need replacements and the usual gaskets, and misc.

Just as in divorce, you know why it costs so much? Because it's worth it….
Good advice on shifter forks. I bought my car with a Rothsport modified GBox and one shifter fork broke while using the car on the track. Luckily enough, the gears did not get damaged and while I was in, I added steel synchros (3rd-5th) to the billet forks. And if you do not have an LSD, add one. I am happy with OS Gyken that Steve highly recommended.

I have 2 993, one with stock gear ratio GBox and one with custom: night and day difference!
Old 01-17-2014, 11:22 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
you have a g64/20 I don't have the data on that transmission or the g64/21
Thanks Bill!

I am pretty happy with my gearing around town. I love the tall second in some ways, but see the appeal of the G64/21

Fun to think about the long term.
Old 01-18-2014, 11:23 AM
  #79  
ToSi
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Funny how all performance threads lead to gearing changes... even when the thread is started by someone w/ a tiptronic. :-)

Since we're on the topic though, can you guys w/ re-geared transmissions comment on relative noise differences between the various gear suppliers (Albins, Guard, other)?

Has anyone used California Motorsports 'weld on' 1st / 2nd gear replacement instead of buying the G50/3x or early -/2x mainshaft?
Old 01-18-2014, 02:26 PM
  #80  
NP993
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Originally Posted by Martin S.
$10,000 may be conservative if you do it right.

Check out gear prices…at G-Box, California Motorsports: New at about $1,000 a gear set…on a 3rd - 5th replacement, you'll need at least three (3) gear, that's $3,000. Some machining is involved to make your present 5th, 6th, $500? We are at $3,500

Steel Synchos at $300 a pop. You'll need at least three…3rd, 4th and 5th. There is another grand….up to $4,400

You should also add forged shifter forks, about $600 for both, 1st 2nd, 3rd-4th. Now up to $5,000.

Since you will be driving the car a little harder, you should add a forged side cover to the tranny, keeps the LSD from moving around. About $350. Now at $5,350

Of course you'll need a Golden Rod and a Factory Short Shifter $500? Now at $5,840

Since you will be maxing out performance, you'll need RS tranny mount and two RS motor mounts, $1,000..now $6,850

Figure labor, I understand that $2,000 is pretty typical. Now at $8,850, best case scenario,,,that is, if nothing else needs replacement.

Now there are the while your in there costs…RMS, a clutch, maybe a LWF. And there are misc. bearing that may/will need replacements and the usual gaskets, and misc.
Almost everything on this list is unnecessary if you just want a tighter gear stack 2 through 5 on a street car. Steel syncros, shifter forks, billet side plate, etc -- none of it's necessary unless you plan on doing serious track work.
Old 01-18-2014, 02:31 PM
  #81  
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redlightrisch said.....I have seen some converted to race cars, but I was trying to learn about streetable power upgrades, and what can be done.

forget 993 -- buy a corvette!

Old 01-19-2014, 09:03 AM
  #82  
ToSi
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Originally Posted by ToSi
Since we're on the topic though, can you guys w/ re-geared transmissions comment on relative noise differences between the various gear suppliers (Albins, Guard, other)?

Has anyone used California Motorsports 'weld on' 1st / 2nd gear replacement instead of buying the G50/3x or early -/2x mainshaft?
Anyone?
Old 01-19-2014, 09:56 AM
  #83  
911PERVY
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Anyone re-geared a 993 turbo box? Is it doable? Worthwhile? I think I can give away 30 mph top end in a heartbeat if I can get to my max sphincter speed of about 150mph a little quicker
Old 01-20-2014, 11:55 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Oh my,.......... You need some enlightenment here. This has nothing to do with track events; re-gearing DOES provide torque increases at every RPM & speed due to the lower overall ratios and much reduced splits at each shift. Its just perfect for those country roads!!! The only difference between track & road use are the specific ratios chosen for the job.

My best suggestion is for you to drive a 993 that's been re-geared properly for you feel the experience for yourself. Its a true epiphany!
I am certainly willing to be enlightened.
I understand that lower gears = increased TQ multiplication and greater acceleration capability.
I'm just not sure if the butt dyno experience in "everyday driving" from a re-gear is the same or significantly better as a baseline engine TQ increase.

Excellent advice re trying to get some seat time in a properly modified car to find out.

cheers

Craig
Old 01-23-2014, 01:45 PM
  #85  
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bump?
Old 01-23-2014, 02:28 PM
  #86  
Bill Verburg
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It's very difficult and expensive to get meaningful torque increases from the engine, much easier to lighten the car so that the torque you do have has an increased effect or regear to get gearing torque multiplication

here is a healthy 3.6 w/ w a stock /20 compared to a regeared /20 where 1st was kept stock and 5th was moved to 6th

red is regeared, red/blue is kept gears and blue is stock. This could be improvedby eliminating the x over tails where on gears torque continues below the next gears torque, ideally you want the end of a gears useable torque to end where it meets the next gears torque curve, the difference in heaight between each corresponding gear set is the increased push that yoor butt experiences, in this case each is meaningful, you really ought to try to get a ride in a regeared car, it's night and day compared to stock
Old 01-23-2014, 05:35 PM
  #87  
Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
you really ought to try to get a ride in a regeared car, it's night and day compared to stock
Truer words were never spoken,.....
Old 01-23-2014, 06:05 PM
  #88  
KaiB
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Truer words were never spoken,.....
Yep.
Old 01-23-2014, 08:32 PM
  #89  
race911
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I let 6-8 guys (and one girl who occasionally competed pro in the old Koni Grand Am series) run the yellow car way back when. Funny thing was when it was street licensed and I offered it up, no takers.

Since the repaired box will likely end up in the 4S at some point, same offer will stand. Might have to show up in Phoenix, though............
Old 01-23-2014, 08:59 PM
  #90  
il pirata
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[QUOTE=ToSi;11061533]

Since we're on the topic though, can you guys w/ re-geared transmissions comment on relative noise differences between the various gear suppliers (Albins, Guard, other)?

/QUOTE]

I was told by the guy who should know that PMS gears would be less noisy than Guard. Albins did not come up in the discussion.


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