Ish993

I've been a little out of pocket the last few months and missed ALL of the local RL runs this past summer, which totally sucked....... It's been super busy at work and in addition I was busy buying another house. It was an estate sale and the transaction took a few months, finally closed the deal and started renovations in September.

So the interesting part is that it is a 1927 house with a 3 car garage / guest house. Our plans include adding a large 2 car garage attached to the main house and adding one more bay onto the existing garage.

6 bays is the max permitted by local zoning and lifts are not permitted. With that being said what would you guys be including in your dream garage????

Heat / ac , H & C water, great lighting, tiled floors are already on my list, anything else?

Cemoto

A walled-off, well-lit, wash/detail bay with floor drain would be most awesome.

Ish993

Good point, that is the idea of adding the 4th bay to the existing 3 car garage. It will be connected with a door in place of the existing window.
Existing garage has floor drains.

993/907

".......and lifts are not permitted".

And they would know you have a lift, how?

Gordo

lopro

I was going to say, a scissor lift brought in on a trailer would be very easy to hide.

Ish993

Specifically, lifts for vehicle storage are not permitted. a scissor lift for maintenance would not be an issue.
I'm not sure about where you guys live but building inspectors in my area of North Jersey are on top of their stuff, not only on initial installation but when they are on the property for other new inspections. This house is going to be undergoing renovations for another 2 years.

The last problem is that I'm an architect so the inspectors get really pissed when you try to slip one by cuz, they know you know better !

rlme36

In the new space put in radiant heat in the floor. I installed it in my garage build and it's awesome. Ensure you have enough elec outlets, I put quads every six feet around perimeter. Hate dragging extension cords. My last bit of advice is clear floor design. I used a large steel beam span in order not to have a middle support beam. I don't know code in NJ but I did it using 2x6 walls to get the best insulating value I could, my build was 1800 sq ft all in and I spend less than $200 to heat it

Ish993

Without a doubt there will not be interior columns, the existing 3 car garage is a clear span with a steel beam, tons of flexibility.

On the heat I was planning on using natural gas fired area heaters in the old space for sure, but I do love the idea of all radiant concrete slabs. It would work really well if you insulated beneath the concrete as well.

Did you use spray insulation or fiberglas? 3" of spray insulation is R-22 so with a 2x6 wall you are talking about a pretty good R value. The weakest link is going to be the garage doors.

coreseller

Your new place looks like a beautiful set-up. If it were me and I were to do it again (recessed lift), I'd get one of these:

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/spe...fts/p-6fb.aspx

Then I would do this:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=228116

My partner built a 5 car / 2 lift garage last year with in-floor radiant heat, it really goes through the gas.

Magdaddy

beautiful property, lovely old home. Might I suggest paying extra attention to the details of the exterior of both the addition to the existing "carriage house", and the new attached garage build. Design in as many features from the existing home as you can...roof pitch, style, trim, etc...

My father was a General contractor, and he always had the habit of pointing out both good and poor builds/additions. When done, you want the new construction to flow seeminglessly with the rest of the property...nothing better than looking like it was part of the original build back in 1927.

I would assume that a portable lift, like a compact scissor lift would be OK code wise. Easy to recess also. For the new garage, radient would be great, especially if that is where you and yours will park your daily's...floor drain is a must. Simple stand alone system, standard 40 gallon (maybe larger)water heater, Taco pump, some pex tubing, a few other pieces-expansion tank, etc...and your good to go.

I have a Nat gas heater in my shed, works great...but can still be cold at floor level.

New garage doors do have insulated panel's, double pane windows etc, and can look beautiful. Might want to consider new doors everywhere, to tie everything together also. Regarding the OHD's, make them all hi lift if you can, openers on the side...really cleans up the ceiling space.

Ish993

All really good points, I am an architect and I have restored, renovated and adapted for reuse many old houses, buildings, hotels ( The Plaza, NYC ) and skyscrapers. The last house we renovated for ourselves was an 1890 Stick Style Victorian we had a lot of fun doing it, but after many years there it was time to move on.

This house is on 3+ acres with 500' of frontage sitting high above the Saddle River. There are a few existing structures, the main house, garage, stable, pump house, 20 x 60 pool and cabana.

I bought the house from the original family that built it, it had been left empty for several years and needs a complete renovation. Currently the interior has been completely gutted except for the 90's kitchen ( Later phase). Every single pipe, wire, duct and building system will be new.

In the spring we are starting construction of a new pool and we are demolishing the existing cabana and building a small (22 x 36) barn to serve as a cabana

So many plans so little time, but we are targeting 2 years to complete house, garage, pool and barn projects.

I appreciate everyone's input in the garage fit out - KEEP THE IDEAS COMING !

Ish993

This pic is for you my Canadian friend, my wife's family are from Newfoundland, talk about cold and remote! But she likes to fly her Newfie flag proudly !

PS, I'm in lust with your avatar !

rlme36

Ish

I didn't use foam due to expense after much research i used dense packed/sprayed in cellulose spray foamed a 1/2 bead in each stud bay to make it tight before they did the cellulose and spray foamed the empty corner voids to make them thight as well. You are right about the doors. I have 2 9x9 that are r15 commercial highlift doors from Wayne dalton. If you are interested I have a build thread on garage journal under the same id.

Since your not putting in a lift per se floor thickness isn't critical, I had 7" 4500 psi with fiber and 6x6 steel mats, which were real handy to tie the radiant tubing to. I didn't have access to gas and use a elec micro boiler that is very efficient at heating the floor. What I really like is the feel it doesn't need to be very high degree wise since everything that is solid is heated via the floor. No rusting tools etc etc not to mention If you are working on the car in the ground it's warm No other heater can do that with a garage slab of any material size. Yes my slab is insulated 2" on the outer 4' and then 1" thick to fill in the rest, very quick recovery and insulated vertical for 2' down from the slab. Slab is a huge mono pour no saw cuts.

rlme36

Since you are an architect by trade, you'll no doubt do a sketch up design. The one ah ha moment that I had was taking into account the depth of any cabinets or workbenches you plan to have. All along I knew I was going to use a particular cabinet and planned around them due to their depth of 24".

As you can tell I was very involved in design and install of parts to cut down on expense where practical.

rob

tcsracing1

hey Ish, I am a Newfie too