pirahna

I believe that ROW m030/m033 are 30mm lower than the US ride height.

Dr. No

Right, and US M030 is 10mm higher than ROW M030; 20mm lower than US stock SUV springs.

pirahna

I was under the impression that the ride height was the same for all US cars including M030.

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...b-rennlist.pdf

il pirata

I am guessing that no leak down was done, no paint meter went over the car and no estimates provided from a repair shop to correct items listed in PPI.

pirahna

That's what happens when a dealer does the PPI.

il pirata

In fairness to the dealer I am pretty sure they where not asked to do a leak down, go over the car with a paint meter and provide a estimate to correct the problems.

Spyder_Man

For the record, a leak down was not performed. The dealer gave me some B.S. response about it costing $900 on top of the $220 for the PPI to perform a leak down test because they'd have to drop the engine. It doesn't smoke, has a very slow oil leak, idles smoothly, and pulls hard. Once I actually own the car, I'll do some extensive service record investigating at the dealer where the first two owners took the car for service. The first 90k miles were put on it by the original owner in about a 6-year period. The next 50k were put on by the second owner whose records might be harder to track down. Time will tell. The car stayed in SoCal its whole life until last September.

I did have the dealer provide an estimate which was a really good laugh...nearly $4000 for a full set of replacement brake pads and rotors installed. Once I had the PPI, I ran it by a few trusted indy shops such as The Stable in SF to get additional opinions. Granted they didn't see the car, just the report. No paint meter either, but I already know the front bumper and rear wing were installed after the original purchase. The fellow who did the appraisal said he suspects the rear fenders were resprayed. There is no evidence of prior accidents. The body is extremely straight and I have trouble even finding a single door ding on the car. All the gaps are nice and even. All the doors and trunks close straight and smoothly.

Thanks for the advice on the AC. I so rarely use the AC in my Boxster (3 days a year maybe). Still I'll have it checked out. If it requires the more expensive fix, then it will likely have to wait a while. The US M030 suspension on Boxsters is 10mm higher than ROW M030 iirc.

Its hard to tell if this board has a health population of pessimists or realists. I suppose time will tell.

pirahna

You should have taken it to Fast Lane in Santa Cruz for the PPI. $900 for a leak down?

Spyder_Man

I'd have liked to. The seller was really finicky and I knew suggesting a PPI 'all the way' in Santa Cruz wouldn't fly. I know I'm taking a bit of a game here. Time will tell if I come out ahead or behind.

race911

Uh, yeah. So unless this is a DIY project, I just don't get it why these "can kick" cars have appeal. I kinda have a handle on this the past few days, what with NINE unsolicited emails on what I'm going to do with the 4S since I have (tomorrow) the 996 Turbo.

(Again, down boys no sale, but I've got everyone on record in order, including the 4 or 5 who've been patiently waiting. But as I said in the other thread, this car will likely end up at a vacation home in Arizona.)

Bottom line is that say my widebody, aerokit, sport seat, PSS9, top end done at 75K, blah blah blah with just short of 150K seems to having guys lining up in just under $40K range. This is a car that's a set of rotors and pads, rear tires, and maybe $2K of cosmetic work that will show well against any 50-60K mile car out there.

A leakdown is a rear wheel and muffler removal, R&R of lower spark plugs, roll through two engine revolutions (while getting your leak numbers). 1.5 hours, tops. Add an extra 15 minutes total for a compression test while at it.

Finally call me what you want, but I've been hard into air cooleds since '80, and run two Porsche specialty shops along the way. And likely a third hobby one if I can "retire" again later this year.

Spyder_Man

Ken, I'm not challenging your wisdom about air-cooled Porsches. And I'll tell you what, if the top end proves to need a rebuild not so long down the road I wont sit here on the forums complaining. I'll do what needs to be done to get the car running again. I might even call one of your specialty shops for an estimate if/when that time comes.

Dr. No

Spidey, you're getting the combined experience/wisdom of a bunch of people who have been through what you're going through specific to the 993. Been in your shoes. It can be terrifying, but highly useful. And IMHO it's what makes the 993 board different. Fewer "does this sweater go with my cocoa full leather interior?" questions.

At 160k the top end may very well have been rebuilt along the way. That's the nice thing about the compression/leakdown test; it gives you a decent idea of where you stand, as would some representation from the current owner about how frequently he has to add oil. But 9 bills is preposterous.

Since you asked for price negotiation points, this would be one of the big ones.

Spyder_Man

Thanks for the follow-up wisdom Dr. The price is set and the final papers are being pushed. I still plan on having a leakdown test done by a shop I trust for my own personal knowledge about the state of the car, but I'm committed to it for better or worse.

The current owner has had the car since September so he's had one oil change and that's it. I suppose that should give me a sense of the flow rate of the leak over a 4-month period. I'll check the oil level and make not of it when I pick the car up to drive it home.

I was going to ask a question about which vintage Coach luggage would best match my Flamenco leather interior, but now you're making me self conscious...