Spyder_Man

The car isn't with Mohr Imports. I have since had a PPI done by the Monterey Dealer and I am told the original factory suspension (030 Sport Option) is still on the car and is worn out. I'm also told the brakes are worn (unclear if it is just pads or pads and rotors). I'm waiting to see the final PPI report because the inspection was done remotely.

Are there any special considerations I should be aware of when replacing work suspension for a 030 Sport Option car? Any ballpark estimates?

il pirata

Given the mileage and apparent lack of history if everything else seems reasonable after the PPI I would have someone go over the car with a paint meter (the dealer should have one on the lot or know a body person nearby that can do it-it will only take a few minutes) and if that passes do a leakdown test. I also assume you will see the car before writing a check to buy it.

As to the suspension I assume the shop means the springs and/or shocks. I would assume the rubber bushings on all of the suspension parts are also shot. You have a number of options on springs and/or shocks. For street use some are:

M030 springs + M030 dampers stiffer springs, firmer dampers (red in colour)
M030 springs + Bilstein HD dampers adjustable platforms
H&R springs + Bilstein HD dampers H&R springs not as stiff as M030 above
H&R springs + H&R dampers based on Bilsteins
Bilstein PSS-10 (or PSS-9) adjustable platforms, bump & rebound

I would not use factory M030 dampers as they are very outdated. You can call FD Motorsports and ask them for pricing and their thoughts...many people here use them. They can also give you suggestions on the rubber bushings and if not too busy could give you a ballpark estimate on installation cost since they do that as well. You will need an alignment and highly recommend a corner balance after putting in new shocks.

Let's see what else comes back from the PPI...if the shocks/springs are gone and brake work is needed I would negotiate for some discount from the seller. If there is evidence of body work or some form of engine work is required this is a much bigger issue.

Dryfly57

At that milage consider a compression test. Have this done if everything pans out.
Good Luck and keep us posted!

Spyder_Man

So here is a more thorough rundown of what the PPI turned up:
-Original suspensions in need of replacement
-Brake pads and rotors worn all around
-Slow oil leak from chain housing and valve covers
-Tail lights and turn signals working backwards (??? Crossed wires? Thoughts anyone?)
-Mirror switch Up-Down not working but Side-to-Side is working
-A/C needs a recharge (surprise, surprise)
-Slight 'freeplay' in steering yoke

"Clutch operation, engine power, transmission, steering and brakes all working properly and has good road feel. [...] Vehicle runs better than age and miles would indicate." The tech also claims the LSD is functioning properly, but I'm not sure if he really did the rear axel spin the wheel test or is just basing this on 'drive feel'. Steering rack looks clean, no evidence of rust around window seals, and the door hinges look good.

I've seen the car and driven it once, I just couldn't be available during the available PPI inspection times. I am following up with the dealer to see if the leakdown pressure test was performed as part of the PPI. I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that it would be. My request to have one done may have been lost in the game of voicemail tag.

New tires (though cheap ones), recent oil change, a new battery, and a new belt and tensioners done by current owner. He's only had the car a short while. The car is very original. The interior is in pretty good shape. It has a turbo-style front bumper and rear wing. No recorded accidents, though one person who has seen the car speculated that the rear fenders were repainted. (Possibly unreported re-ending? Or just respray when wing was added? Unknown)

Based upon all this, I figure a brake service (pads, rotors, fluid) is in order, and all filters other than the oil filter (since an oil change was just done) should be replaced immediately. Also that electrical issue with the tail lights and turn signals needs to be sorted out. I'm going to be pretty tight on cash if I make a deal on this car so I might have to wait and save my pennies for the suspension/steering yoke/alignment, which I was told is best to do all at once. Since my daily commute is all of 7 miles round trip, I think I can nurse it along for a while.

What other immediate repairs/services should I plan on if I buy the car? Based upon the above list of 'issues' how much should I aim to haggle the seller down in price? The initial discussed price has been a little under $30k assuming all was in good order.

Dr. No

If you have 030 from the factory you can just replace the dampers with Bilstein HD, get a good alignment, and you'll have a very nice setup. FD is a very good suggestion for a supplier/installer.

Is the chain housing oil drip a "leak" or a "seep"? Many cars seep for a long time with no need to address.

Sounds like you have a good order of battle for what to address. You may ask the PPI what % of pad and rotor you have left. Porsche pads and rotors last much longer than mortal brakes and pads under 7 mile easy commute use.

Spyder_Man

The Tech definitely clarified it was an oil 'leak' and not a 'seep'. That said the current owner claims that between last Friday and yesterday there has been one drop of oil that has appeared under the car. My first car was a '67 VW Beetle and I was brought up in a household with 356s and 911s. Oil leaks and seeps are just part of the air-cooled engine experience, IMHO.

The pads definitely need replacing. The Tech measured them to be under 3mm on the front and between 3-5mm on the rears. It is unclear to me how worn the rotors are. I'd like to clarify that.

Lastly, thanks for the tip about just installing the Bilstein HD dampers. I'm a bit worried about the state of all the rubber bits involved in the suspension and what might be ready for replacement. I've heard they are cheap parts but rather labor intensive.

I'm also near to Hi-Tec Automotive and S-Car-Go. I expect both shops are rather knowledgeable about 993s.

Dr. No

S-Car-Go did the PPI on my car. I was very pleased with their work. Rob King is the 993 master IIRC. I've also had a little work done by FDM and they know their stuff too, but it's a bit of a hike from here.

EDIT: You may be aware already but a proper 993 alignment (especially after suspension work) is absolutely essential, but not cheap at about $300. I drove to Roger Kraus Racing in the East Bay for a good one after someone who shall remain nameless did a poor job on my HD/030 install. S-Car-Go may know somebody good on this side of the bay.

Spyder_Man

One point of clarification about suspension, in the Boxster world there is a US M030 and a ROW M030. The ROW M030 has a lower ride height due to shorter springs. This is the same case with 993s correct? This car has the M030 option but was made for US so it should have a higher ride height, correct?

OverBoosted28

If your gonna get new dampers or the whole new set up, replace the front lower control arm bushings at the same time. That way you won't have to do 2 alignments. If the susp. is shot I am sure the front bushings are worn. Should have vibration at about 50-55 mph.

Spyder_Man

Well the seller and I have come to a verbal agreement. Due to locational constraints and my lender, it will take a few more days to fully wrap up, but once it has I'll post some pics and such.

race911

So, why this car, at this price? Why not save a few bucks, shop for a Blue Chip-ish car in a few months that will always be worth more + more liquid on the back end?

I just hate hearing of someone going for a high miler and being on any kind of budget.............

Spyder_Man

Well I hate to possibly disappoint, but I am working on a tight budget. I can only afford to be a one Porsche man at this point in my life, and I simply could not afford anything north of $30k and still be able to budget for repairs. I know the old adage: "There is no such thing as a cheap Porsche" is truth. I expect to see some gremlins in the future with this car.

That said this car had the colors and options that I was looking for. It drives great despite its high mileage. I'm looking forward to experiencing it with a fresh suspension as well. And I am very excited about owning my first air-cooled flat-6.

I was shopping for a nice driver and not a garage queen. I will be happy if this car retains its sale price over the course of my ownership, and ecstatic if it appreciates some. That said, I'm not banking on a speculative return. I'm banking on the enjoyment!

Dr. No

Correct. I think 10mm higher than ROW M030.

FDM says they can replace the lower control arms without requiring a re-alignment. But if I were doing it over again I'd do them at the same time just to save a trip.

Dr. No

Ken may be worried about valves/top end, which is where high miles can have a head-on with budget. Did you get the compression/leakdown in the PPI? Seller tell you how much oil it burns?

Kika

I notice the report says AC needs a recharge.

This could be as simple as recharging the system to replacing the evaporator, which is not so simple or cheap.

Many of us have had to deal with replacing the evaporator.