Engine Rebuild Completed
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: The Blue Ridge Mountains
Engine Rebuild Completed
Just got the 993 back after an engine rebuild by PWR in Memphis. My wife just told me no more X-mas presents for the next 20 years or so...
After only 53,000 miles the valve guides were worn and caused the clicking sound, that we believed was one or more bend valves. So the decision was made to bite the bullet and to have the engine rebuild rather than just a top end rebuild. I can only recommend to anyone in a similar situation to go this route - it is more expensive that way but these engines are at least 15 years old, and trying to save money will only cost more in the long run.
However, the engine was split and completely rebuild (parts include main, piston, and rod bearings, piston rings, timing chains, oil return tubes) including a rebuild of the dual distributors. Head work including new valve guides (not the crappy OEM stuff), new out take valves, recut valve seats, reface and polish valves, check valve spring heights and valve stem heights. All new seals, gaskets, belts, plugs, etc.
What really helped the repair bill was the fact that the clutch was in need of replacement as well, so labor for the clutch (almost) came in free. SAI air passages were clogged up as well and the engine was leaking oil in several places so all that no longer is an issue. Total cost for the rebuild was just shy of $11K, without the clutch just shy of $10K.
Results of the dyno pull - 261 rwhp
Merry Christmas everyone!
After only 53,000 miles the valve guides were worn and caused the clicking sound, that we believed was one or more bend valves. So the decision was made to bite the bullet and to have the engine rebuild rather than just a top end rebuild. I can only recommend to anyone in a similar situation to go this route - it is more expensive that way but these engines are at least 15 years old, and trying to save money will only cost more in the long run.
However, the engine was split and completely rebuild (parts include main, piston, and rod bearings, piston rings, timing chains, oil return tubes) including a rebuild of the dual distributors. Head work including new valve guides (not the crappy OEM stuff), new out take valves, recut valve seats, reface and polish valves, check valve spring heights and valve stem heights. All new seals, gaskets, belts, plugs, etc.
What really helped the repair bill was the fact that the clutch was in need of replacement as well, so labor for the clutch (almost) came in free. SAI air passages were clogged up as well and the engine was leaking oil in several places so all that no longer is an issue. Total cost for the rebuild was just shy of $11K, without the clutch just shy of $10K.
Results of the dyno pull - 261 rwhp
Merry Christmas everyone!
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Ventura
Thanks. Its really good to get some solid number on how much a complete rebuild costs. It doesn't seem to get much more comprehensive than that save for new pistons maybe. Its surprising it needed to happen so soon. Had it been sitting for a long time. Mine has 140,000 miles on it with no rebuild and the thing runs fine. Either way I am expecting a rebuild soon. How long did the whole process take?
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: The Blue Ridge Mountains
9 weeks total but I told them to take their time since I wasn't in a hurry. We agreed that it would be best to leave the engine stock - no racing cams, head modifications or a 3.8 conversion kit that some people seem to be crazy about. The clutch is stock and although I was pursuing the idea to have a single mass fly wheel installed Pat convinced me otherwise.
Maybe down the road a transmission upgrade to change the gear ratio to get closer to EURO spec transmissions but this will be it.
Maybe down the road a transmission upgrade to change the gear ratio to get closer to EURO spec transmissions but this will be it.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend, OR
That does seem pretty cheap. I spent almost $10K on my old 911-parts and machining only, my labor.
I'm not sure many of our engines at 53K will even come close to be needing to have the case split.
May your new engine live long!
I'm not sure many of our engines at 53K will even come close to be needing to have the case split.
May your new engine live long!
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Joined: May 2001
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You can get ticking from worn guides -- but they have to be VERY worn. The ticking is caused by the guide being so worn that it allows the valve head to wobble and not seat properly. Not unusual for a 993 to need guides at 53K, but it would be surprising if the ticking was caused by guides. More likely a collapsed lifter.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: The Blue Ridge Mountains
But worn valve guides are not unusual for engines with only 50K or 60K miles on the clock. Porsche used some crappy material for the valve guides and some 993 owners have been just lucky...
Splitting the case might be unusual but the engines are minimum 15 years old, and at this age it is just a matter of time before the engine starts leaking oil because seals are beginning to fail. Splitting the case will take 20 additional hours so why not to do this while the engine is out? Glad I did it!
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend, OR
Hitting the rev limiter should not result in a valve issue. A over-rev that can cause damage to valve train is typically as missed shift dropping into a lover gear instead of upshifting, as in going from 3-2, instead of 3-4.
I'd say most leaks are capable of being resolved without a split. I'm 20 years old, 76k, and my only "leaks" were weeping at the chain covers, and RMS.
If I ever did damage with over-rev, I'd R&R my rods, go to ARP fasteners, and some bullet-proofing the springs, retainers, etc in the heads. This is exactly why and what I did with my 911.
You're happy with the end result, which is all that matters, and hopefully have many years of pleasure in front.
I'd say most leaks are capable of being resolved without a split. I'm 20 years old, 76k, and my only "leaks" were weeping at the chain covers, and RMS.
If I ever did damage with over-rev, I'd R&R my rods, go to ARP fasteners, and some bullet-proofing the springs, retainers, etc in the heads. This is exactly why and what I did with my 911.
You're happy with the end result, which is all that matters, and hopefully have many years of pleasure in front.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 609
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From: The Blue Ridge Mountains
Hitting the rev limiter should not result in a valve issue. A over-rev that can cause damage to valve train is typically as missed shift dropping into a lover gear instead of upshifting, as in going from 3-2, instead of 3-4.
I'd say most leaks are capable of being resolved without a split. I'm 20 years old, 76k, and my only "leaks" were weeping at the chain covers, and RMS.
If I ever did damage with over-rev, I'd R&R my rods, go to ARP fasteners, and some bullet-proofing the springs, retainers, etc in the heads. This is exactly why and what I did with my 911.
You're happy with the end result, which is all that matters, and hopefully have many years of pleasure in front.
I'd say most leaks are capable of being resolved without a split. I'm 20 years old, 76k, and my only "leaks" were weeping at the chain covers, and RMS.
If I ever did damage with over-rev, I'd R&R my rods, go to ARP fasteners, and some bullet-proofing the springs, retainers, etc in the heads. This is exactly why and what I did with my 911.
You're happy with the end result, which is all that matters, and hopefully have many years of pleasure in front.
Should not but it could if hitting the rev limiter in first gear spinning the wheels - that's how Pat explained it to me. Before you know it you are at 8,000 1/min and that could cause very well a bend valve. Other than that you might be right, I'm not the expert here, but we decided to split the case to avoid pulling the engine again in a few years just because of more oil leaks. This way I know the engine is fine.
And thank you for your encouraging words. Not that it really bothers me but others only seem to be able to criticize regardless...
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Canada
Edit. My question was answered!
I hope I can at least get my top end done with $10k some day. It would have been good to do a dyno pull before the work was done to see the difference. 261whp is good!
I hope I can at least get my top end done with $10k some day. It would have been good to do a dyno pull before the work was done to see the difference. 261whp is good!
Last edited by SOS; Dec 25, 2013 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Question answered