crw

Of all of the tools I have, this is one of my favorites - it is like a stick on LCD light that is small, convenient, has a magnet to adhere to things, and lights up things as well as a drop light.


















The OEM tips and the retainer rings are off.















Once off, there is more space to get the mufflers off.










The retainer ring @ the muffler accepts an Allen wrench.



















My front-most bumper brackets were in good shape (they are OEM coated in rubber.










The rear-most brackets had the rubber chipped up at bit. Rather than going to the trouble of removing these I am going to clean them up a bit, wipe them down with rust inhibitor, and slip a stainless steel covering loom over them for protection. The loom has a slit which allows me to slide in right over after cutting to length.









The valve covers have no leaks.










I talked to Daring at FD Motor Sport and the Fister IIs should be here in a week or two.

-----------------------


Moving on to the Goldenrod.

The 1st step is to remove the shifter boot.











Press down on the driver's side of the boot to release it from the clips shown in the picture.










Work bottom of the boot/retainer out of the console and pull it up over the **** to expose the Allen nut retaining it on the shift lever.














Once the Allen nut was loosened, it slid right off.









Time to sit down with Rowan and decide the best strategy to remove all of the shift rods and shifter mechanism in one piece.

crw

This rod gets pried off the ball in cup connection at the the front of the linkage where it connects to the torque tube (my care is a C4S) and at the rear where it connects to the shifter.

I was surprised by how much force it took (I used a pickle wrench).












I then removed the shift rod at the transmission (posterior) and at the shifter (anterior).

















The sleeve that slides the shifter over the drive shaft needs to be split in half by removing the 4 (4mm) Allen screws (be sure you Allen wrench is fully seated -( you will be for a lot of pain if you strip the heads on these).





You will remove the upper half of the sleeve and drop the whole shift mechanism use a Rubick's cube maneuver.











Waiting for my Fisters and GR/SSK to be shipped.

JB 911

I'm enjoying the pictures - keep them coming!

Are you going to replace that shift shaft seal while you are in there they are only like $20 or is that gunk from something else.

crw

I did have 1 drop of green fluid there (I would assume from the transmission).

How hard is it to replace the seal?

Any link to how to do it?

lopro

great thread keep the updates coming.

JB 911

It's not bad at all. Especially considering the point you are at - you've already done 90% of the work to gain access. I followed Jackal-forges diy. I found it good and I like his writing style. If you decide to do it make sure and protect your shaft before you go after the seal. I used an old bit of garden hose, it worked well.

http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/993/993_gss.html

crw

After a few weeks the Fister Products arrived, all high quality:

I choose to get the non-coated mufflers and did the exchange program.

I am polishing them prior to install.






New and old rods side to side:




The Goldenrod uses a different coupler mechanism than stock:




The forward rod allows for easier adjusting and includes a new cup which should tighten things up a bit:










New and old shifter rod side to side, not the difference in the coupler mechanism:









Hard part of install on C4S is getting the curved shifter rod past the opening in the torque tube. FD suggests using a dead blow hammer. I found it easier to use a scissor jack to push in by the lip:

















My rear tranny seal has a leak so it will need to replace it:








Here is the drip over time on my under tray







When you split the shuttle during the install (more detailed on FD's instructions), be sure to Loctite:






This stuff is good for cleaning and treating the rubber boots throughout the shifter mechanism:





I also received a cool decal with my order:





The next steps are:

- muffler install
- replace tranny rear seal (once it gets here this week)
- cleaning off 17 years of grease off that near near the real seal


The dogs like the winter Vortex, cool weather perks them up a bit:

vtwin996

Just completed the same process myself but with Fister IIIs. Wonder if the mufflers and rod were from my car? Nice thread. Can't wait to enjoy the car with the changes.

crw

The grease from the leak at the transmission has been cleaned up and the new seal has arrived:


















I have started to install the Fister IIs






























The flange from the muffler sits in the receiver in the cat. This was a bit confusion at first, because when I had taken them off, slot of corrosion made it seem like the muffler had to slide inside. It does not, it passively sits and the clamp creates the seal between the male and female parts.

crw

I removed the old seal at the transmission. I came off very easily using a open end set of expandable pliers (I taped off the shaft to protect it).










Here is the seal off, with the oil dripping out slowly, the fluid is a dark green color.







You can use a 22 socket to tap the new seal into place:








Here is the new seal and the back end of the Golden rod in place:












Here is the forward end of the Golden rod in place. It is important to line up the retaining clip into the slot and make sure it is fully seated. Thus takes patient and it important that it is in the correct spot. Check it twice and then 1 more time for good measure - you don't want this to come off while driving.










Next time I will install the forward bar, adjust, and finish up the SSK/GR

crw

Time to put the forward rod on to the shift linkage.

Here is the rod:





The rear part of the bar screws onto the shifter linkage under the car:










The forward part of the bar has a cup (which is greased) and then is pushed (with a scissor jack) on to the accepting **** on the torque tube (on a C4S):






















The shifter feels nice and shifts well.


I did notice that the sight side of the shifter rod (under the boot) seems to rub ever so slightly against the side of the plastic console when going into 5th or 6th gear. I have to see if there is a way to solve that.

NYC993

Nice write up. GR/SSK are on my to do list

willus

Thanks for the write-up...my GR and SSK just arrived and trying to find a time to get them installed. Just ordered the shaft-seal as preventative maintenance based on your write-up.

Randall921

I noticed the same thing when I installed mine last winter. It hasn't bothered me/I haven't noticed as much as I thought I would while driving but would love to know if there's a solution.

crw

My car is still on jack stands, so I want to see what it's like when on the ground.

If it still is there, I think the way to solve that issue is to:

- remove shifter/shifter boot
- locate exactly where the metal shifter is coming close to the console
- using some heavy duty pipe wrenches, place a slight bend in the metal shaft of the shifter (@ 1 to 2 mm) to move it away from the passenger side of the plastic console.