76,555 Mile Service Routine (clutch & various "while in there") for Sapphire
12-20-2013, 12:13 PM
#61
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Thread Starter
I didn't have the corrosion, just the crumbling insulation.
C4S- fuel was manageable when the two lines were disconnected, prior to dropping the motor. All I had to do was remove the fuel rail fasteners and lift up. Yes, they should pop right in.
C4S- fuel was manageable when the two lines were disconnected, prior to dropping the motor. All I had to do was remove the fuel rail fasteners and lift up. Yes, they should pop right in.
12-20-2013, 12:59 PM
#62
Well, with travel and some out of town guests last weekend, not a lot done. But, I did pull the injectors, and got the tin off to get access to valve covers. I also found some deteriorated insulation on the wires going to the SAI pump at the back of the engine. IIRC, Adam had the same problem on his, so this seems to be a pretty sure bet as to a weak point, based on these two samples.
12-20-2013, 01:31 PM
#63
Technical Guru
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12-20-2013, 01:58 PM
#64
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With Adam's that makes 4 known-I'd agree there are probably a lot out there in the same boat.
12-20-2013, 02:37 PM
#65
12-22-2013, 05:38 PM
#67
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Thread Starter
Some progress today-took the timing chain covers off, cleaned them and replaced gaskets and stud seals. I didn't have a big leak, but a bit of a weep on each side. You can see the gasket's texture is a bit "rough" at the bottom.
Also took the opportunity to replace the intermediate shaft cover's O-ring with a nice green Viton seal, although there was no leak. The old o-ring definitely felt a bit "stiff".
I recessed the RMS per spec by using a piece of a 3" PVC pipe fitting. The diameter was a bit small, so I cut a ring off the fitting, then a segment off of it. I used some heat and formed the radius to the old seal. I then used that as a dolly to tap the seal home. I found this a bit more precise than using a socket extension. My largest seal installer is 3" OD-not big enough, so improvisation was in order.
Then, I swung the motor on end, and changed out the 3 top lifters on #4/5/6 cyls. These all came out intact, but when I pulled on one of the old seals, it snapped-it was pretty brittle. I note the new lifters have a different material (white) for those seals-hopefully they last as long. Bottom line-based on the 3 samples, I'm sure they weren't in danger of failing soon, but since it is out, why not change them?
The nice ending here is that this cam had nice looking lobes!
I'll finish lifters tomorrow, do new plugs and replace the valve cover gaskets. Then PS belt, and mount the DMF and clutch. Then, inspect the dizzy belt, and .......
After that, I have new crank reference and cyl head temp sensors, which require an updated plug on the car's harness, so a bit of electrical work there. Probably for Thurs.
The goal is to come off the stand Friday or Saturday, if I can scare up some local muscle.
Also took the opportunity to replace the intermediate shaft cover's O-ring with a nice green Viton seal, although there was no leak. The old o-ring definitely felt a bit "stiff".
I recessed the RMS per spec by using a piece of a 3" PVC pipe fitting. The diameter was a bit small, so I cut a ring off the fitting, then a segment off of it. I used some heat and formed the radius to the old seal. I then used that as a dolly to tap the seal home. I found this a bit more precise than using a socket extension. My largest seal installer is 3" OD-not big enough, so improvisation was in order.
Then, I swung the motor on end, and changed out the 3 top lifters on #4/5/6 cyls. These all came out intact, but when I pulled on one of the old seals, it snapped-it was pretty brittle. I note the new lifters have a different material (white) for those seals-hopefully they last as long. Bottom line-based on the 3 samples, I'm sure they weren't in danger of failing soon, but since it is out, why not change them?
The nice ending here is that this cam had nice looking lobes!
I'll finish lifters tomorrow, do new plugs and replace the valve cover gaskets. Then PS belt, and mount the DMF and clutch. Then, inspect the dizzy belt, and .......
After that, I have new crank reference and cyl head temp sensors, which require an updated plug on the car's harness, so a bit of electrical work there. Probably for Thurs.
The goal is to come off the stand Friday or Saturday, if I can scare up some local muscle.
12-22-2013, 06:24 PM
#70
Love the pictures!
What did you use on the timing chain cover caskets?
Tony
What did you use on the timing chain cover caskets?
Tony
12-22-2013, 07:00 PM
#72
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Thread Starter
12-22-2013, 07:07 PM
#73
12-22-2013, 10:09 PM
#75
RL Community Team
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Related to the SAI pump photos; The nature of the wire failure looks like the wires overheated from current draw, maybe the pump motor drawing too much current or running too long. Or simply the wire is of too small a gauge. Once overheated the insulation could have become brittle, corrosion sets in and the wire look like what you exhibit above. The reason I say this is that the wire failure seems to be over a long portion of the wire and if it was age & exposure related I would think the level of deterioration would be uneven - some length looking ok other parts showing deterioration.
Your thoughts?
Your thoughts?