zooming993

Getting ready to place a parts order and one the parts I’m ordering is the Rear Main Seal P/N 999-113-426-41. I’ve read a few threads cautioning the use of certain manufactures seals. If given the choice, which brand would you buy Kaco, Elring, Victor Reinz or Genuine Porsche?

Thanks

pp000830

Is the old one leaking?

RS man

So there is something common with the 996 other than the bonnet badge after all

Ed Hughes

This is simply a YYIT item associated with clutch projects.

zooming993

No it's not leaking but I want to replace it while I'm changing the clutch.

geolab

in my honest opinion, if it is not leaking, and you are DIYing it, do not change it.
The same applies to valve covers or timing chain cover seals.
Whilst the covers if they leak with a new seal, you could go back and redo, though with
the rear main seal, you have to take the tranny out again.
And you need a tad of practice, to introduce the seal in one go.
If you insist, clean the bore only with soft cloth and acetone on the cloth, no spraying of any solvent in the bore, no green scrub pads either, even if the bore in the case looks rough.
Lube the bore with engine oil and the seal outer edge micro lips as well.
Use the seal tool, and go very slow checking the circumference repeatingly

pp000830

I'm with geolab on this. If you have not done a few of these have someone who has help you. It would be good to start a new RENNLIST discussion posting asking how and under what conditions others have experienced seal leaks and who replaces them as standard procedure during a clutch replacement. The more data points you have the better.
Andy

Garth S

Regards R&R of the seal, I agree with Geo's good advice. While I have never faced a 993 RMS, I have done numerous 928 dual clutch set ups ... only one was to replace the RMS, and all remain leak free after several years of running.

If you do replace the seal, it is preferable to have a metal flange that matches the seals diameter to act as a setting ring .... rather than tapping on the seal directly with a hammer . The 928 seal is ~110mm diameter, much larger than my socket set had ..... if in need , go to a transmission shop and dive into the trash bin: there are many machined bronze/ Al rings available that will make the perfect tool.

Ed Hughes

I've used the old seal as a "dolly" to tap the new one in.

jhg41977

Contact Darin at FD. I bought my LWF and RS clutch through them, they include a seal. I installed it with the engine in the car, first one I had done. That was at 64k. I now have 90k on the car and have the engine out for a rebuild. Not s drop of oil on the outside of the seal. I pressed the new one in using the back of the old one with a piece of 1x wood and a rubber mallet. No issues. Just dont try to pound the seal in with one blow.

IXLR8

Interesting comments considering how often I have read "while you are in there, replace..." on this and other forums.

I have always replaced the crankshaft and transmission input shaft seals when doing a clutch job. It depends on the mileage. I'm not going to worry about small dollar items when the time spent getting to them a second time is what counts.

zooming993

Thanks for the feedback. So if I do replace the seal I'm still interested to find out who manufactures the best seal. I contacted a Porsche dealer and they sell Kaco.

pro325

He said "rear seal"...

pro325

Childish, I know, could not help myself...

zooming993

Once again thanks for all the replies. Even though I received several replies to my post I still don't know if one manufacture is better then another when it comes to Rear Main Seals. Is there any difference between Kaco, Elring or Victor Reinz?