zooming993

I'm planning on dropping the motor this winter and while it’s out I plan on replacing the following items:

Clutch
DMF
Slave Cylinder
Hose, Slave Cylinder
Seal, Flywheel
Spark plugs
Plug Wires
Valve Cover Gaskets
Timing Chain Cover Gaskets
Power Steering Belt
Main Shaft Seal, Transmission
Fuel Filter
Oil & Filter Change

My questions have to do with the types of grease, sealants and thread locks I’ll need. From the threads I’ve read I'm planning on using the following materials.

Timing & Valve Cover Gaskets - MolyKote High-Vacuum Grease
Timing Cover O-Rings - MolyKote 55
Seal, Flywheel & Main Shaft Seal - Curil-T Sealant

Are these the proper products to use on the above items?

When replacing the above-mentioned components should I be using a thread locking material on any of the hardware?

Thanks

bcameron59

No thread locker on any of above, but might want to use loctite blue on engine mount bottom nuts and axle flange boots if re-using old hardware.

I used anti-seize on valve cover bolts, because 2 were seized and broke during disassembly. Also used lots on exhaust hardware on reassembly.

Porsche specifies Olista to lube trans shaft splines where they enter clutch / throwout bearing, found it on Pelican.

I went by sealants in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...bond-94-a.html

Timing & Valve Cover Gaskets -
loctite 574 for timing covers
Curil-t for valve covers
(where did you get recommendation for MolyKote High-Vacuum Grease? Might be fine, just never heard that one)

Timing Cover O-Rings - dow corning MolyKote 111, supposed to be ok substitute since I couldn't find Molykote 55. Also used on o-rings for power steering, and put a dab on the tip of the clutch slave arm where it enters the bell housing to contact the clutch fork.

BTW you might want to consider replacing the clutch master at same time as the slave unless you know yours is in good shape.

Seal, Flywheel & Main Shaft Seal - went with dry install due to concerns with the seal walking out, but was tempted to use Curil-T, just cuz it smells so nice...

Good luck with reassembly and here's to no leaks.

zooming993

Becameron59,

Thank you for the response. In answer to your question regarding the vacuum grease, IXR8 responded to another thread I posted earlier. He wrote "When I installed my upper and lower valve cover seals (they are rubber), I simply coated the side towards the engine with a thin coat of Dow Corning vacuum grease (a clear silicone grease) to let the seals walk while tightening the valve covers down.

So if I understand correctly, I should consider using loctite 574 on the timing covers and Curil-t on the valve covers. I will use MolyKote 55 on all the O-Rings.

As for the Olista lube Porsche recommends applying to the transmission shaft splines, I couldn't find it anywhere. Do you know where I can purchase it or if there is another product that can use instead?

Thanks

bcameron59

I found Olista at pelican parts.
EDIT: It's not listed under the 993 parts menu, you have type "Olista" into the "search our site" search box.

If you can find molykote 111, use for o-rings, if you can't, use 55.

Sounds like there's several approaches to the valve covers, Vacuum grease might be fine, some use a bit of oil, some use curil-t, some go dry... I guess it's take your pick and hope for the best.

I couldn't find loctite 574 in Canada so I ended up using Permatex Px 51813. Both are anaerobic (sets when sandwiched between 2 layers of metal) sealants with similar specs. No chain cover leaks so far.

Cheers/bc

Endoman

If you are replacing the slave have a look at the one made by MPL, slightly larger bore, aluminium, better seals. Reduces pedal pressure and looks neat but yet another piece you can't see. They are on ebay sometimes from the manufactures.

IXLR8

You do not need any sealants or bonding agents with rubber seals to create a seal unless the surfaces that you are mating to aren't smooth. My upper and lower valve covers are bone dry (not even misting) nearly 4 years later.

A local owner has had issues with the cam chain covers. For some reason, the channel that the rubber seal sits in, can be pitted.