Fast idle - after top end rebuild & LWF install
#16
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I was leaning toward just varioram but Steven rightly pointed out that cleanup of the Exxon Valdiz would be easier with engine out.
Only a small incremental effort given that I did not get very far with reassembly - 8 bolts, 5 vac/breather hoses, 4 oil & p/s hoses and a handful of electrical plugs.
Besides, engine drops are FUN !!!![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
Only a small incremental effort given that I did not get very far with reassembly - 8 bolts, 5 vac/breather hoses, 4 oil & p/s hoses and a handful of electrical plugs.
Besides, engine drops are FUN !!!
![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
I didn't take a pic of mine. So now all I would have is the ***-in-the-air-and-head-deep-down-in-the-engine picture of me replacing my oil pressure sender.
#17
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![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
EDIT: at this point I changed my avatar to the following; since resolving the leak(s) it has now been changed back to regular (back end of my 993 sliding around a corner):
Last edited by bcameron59; 10-28-2013 at 01:31 AM. Reason: Missed quote
#18
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^ lol to the new avatar
Good luck with the leak. May it be simple and swift. That stinks about the dirty engine, I'm guessing it came back shiny clean.
Good luck with the leak. May it be simple and swift. That stinks about the dirty engine, I'm guessing it came back shiny clean.
#19
Race Car
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If the oil has leaked from the oil pressure sender, oil temp sender or the crankcase vent then there will be oil all over the top of the case and down through the cylinders, you won't be able to clean any of this oil out. If you don't you will do an amazing James Bond impression
#21
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Found the source of the oil leak using my new toy (borescope), it's at the breather cover. Seal popped out, or I missed torqueing down one of the bolts, can't quite tell from the video.
Video starts with the oil pressure sender, then moves slightly to the left, where you can see oil gushing from the breather cover in a manner reminiscent of the opening credits of the Beverley Hillbillies... "and up from the ground came a-bubblin' crude - oil, that is - black gold - texas tea"
Engine is coming out to clean up the mess.![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Video starts with the oil pressure sender, then moves slightly to the left, where you can see oil gushing from the breather cover in a manner reminiscent of the opening credits of the Beverley Hillbillies... "and up from the ground came a-bubblin' crude - oil, that is - black gold - texas tea"
Engine is coming out to clean up the mess.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Last edited by bcameron59; 10-13-2013 at 11:56 PM. Reason: video explanation
#23
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OK, finished the break-in as suggested by Steve W, it still ran fast, started at 3k rpm idle and went up to about 3.5K once warmed up. Used oil pans to catch the leaks and topped up with another litre when about that amount had been caught from spills.
Lots of smoke as Trophy/Steven predicted (pic #1 below). For extra excitement, we had a small spot fire from spilled oil on the heat exchanger, which is why it's always a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher handy...
To my surprise, the oil had lots of tiny sparkles, see pic #2 below. Wasn't expecting this because the only new mechanical parts are the valve guides, everything else (rings, rockers etc) were re-used. Suspect some of the sparkle might be from anti-seize used in a few places.
Engine is now out and, many cans of brake cleaner later, oil is cleaned up as best I could without pulling the engine cover (which means pretty good but probably not perfect). Discovered that the CRC brand brake cleaner also removes my new paint from the engine tin.![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
The culprit for the oil leak was a bolt on the breather cover which came loose and turned out to be stripped, though I don't recall any problems while torqueing these down. First time I have used helicoils for thread repair (time serts do not appear to be available locally), see pic #3 below. Much easier than I had feared; just had to be really careful not to let aluminum bits fall into the open breather (stuffed the hole with cloths & wiped up carefully when finished).
Waiting for a new breather gasket, then everything goes back together and into the car. I will also triple-check the vacuum connections in case these might be at fault for the high rev idle, and will also adjust the gap to 0.9mm on the flywheel reference sensor, just in case.
Pics below:
#1 James Bond impression
#2 Engine oil... "sparkling" clean
#3 helicoil repair of breather bolt hole
Lots of smoke as Trophy/Steven predicted (pic #1 below). For extra excitement, we had a small spot fire from spilled oil on the heat exchanger, which is why it's always a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher handy...
To my surprise, the oil had lots of tiny sparkles, see pic #2 below. Wasn't expecting this because the only new mechanical parts are the valve guides, everything else (rings, rockers etc) were re-used. Suspect some of the sparkle might be from anti-seize used in a few places.
Engine is now out and, many cans of brake cleaner later, oil is cleaned up as best I could without pulling the engine cover (which means pretty good but probably not perfect). Discovered that the CRC brand brake cleaner also removes my new paint from the engine tin.
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
The culprit for the oil leak was a bolt on the breather cover which came loose and turned out to be stripped, though I don't recall any problems while torqueing these down. First time I have used helicoils for thread repair (time serts do not appear to be available locally), see pic #3 below. Much easier than I had feared; just had to be really careful not to let aluminum bits fall into the open breather (stuffed the hole with cloths & wiped up carefully when finished).
Waiting for a new breather gasket, then everything goes back together and into the car. I will also triple-check the vacuum connections in case these might be at fault for the high rev idle, and will also adjust the gap to 0.9mm on the flywheel reference sensor, just in case.
Pics below:
#1 James Bond impression
#2 Engine oil... "sparkling" clean
#3 helicoil repair of breather bolt hole
#26
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I suspect most of the oil that gets sloshed up through the breather falls back down the couple of feet of hose into the crankcase, while it's mostly vapours that get recirculated into the oil tank.
#28
Race Car
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I had the exact same high idle problem after my first engine drop. I had reversed the connections for the maf and the isv. They are the same plug, just different colors. Car ran fine, but idle was 3000-3500. Reversed the plugs and it was back to normal.
#30
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Oh boy...another chance to pimp my duck. Here is the thread with the side and 3/4 views, along with other ducks.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ucktail-2.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ucktail-2.html