Convertible Top Passenger front latch not opening
#1
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Convertible Top Passenger front latch not opening
Hi, just got my first porsche (1995 993 cab) and I'm have some trouble w/ the convertible top. I searched but didn't find this issues in archives.
The locking mechanism that latches the front of the top to the top part of the windshield is not unlatching to open the top on the passenger side.
There are two silver rotational mechanisms ( one on the drivers side and one on the passengers) that do a half turn when opening the top as the switch to open the top is pushed. To be clear the drivers side mechanism works fine every time, however the top won't open since the passenger mechanism stays locked down.
The drivers side will unlatch and come open about 1/2" then everything stops since the other side is still latched, that's when I hear a clicking noise. I then have to push the button to close the top and the drivers side pulls down and latches. I have to repeat the open close process about 10x before the passenger side unlatches and the top opens just fine.
Also, the closing of the top happens w/o incident on both sides.
the car is a recent purchase and prior to purchase, the indep. shop, had replaced the cables in the top due to age. During the ppi the shop told me the passenger side latch is finicky. I dont think its fluid since its only one side and works smooth otherwise.
Any help/direction is much appreciated.
Thanks
Jr
The locking mechanism that latches the front of the top to the top part of the windshield is not unlatching to open the top on the passenger side.
There are two silver rotational mechanisms ( one on the drivers side and one on the passengers) that do a half turn when opening the top as the switch to open the top is pushed. To be clear the drivers side mechanism works fine every time, however the top won't open since the passenger mechanism stays locked down.
The drivers side will unlatch and come open about 1/2" then everything stops since the other side is still latched, that's when I hear a clicking noise. I then have to push the button to close the top and the drivers side pulls down and latches. I have to repeat the open close process about 10x before the passenger side unlatches and the top opens just fine.
Also, the closing of the top happens w/o incident on both sides.
the car is a recent purchase and prior to purchase, the indep. shop, had replaced the cables in the top due to age. During the ppi the shop told me the passenger side latch is finicky. I dont think its fluid since its only one side and works smooth otherwise.
Any help/direction is much appreciated.
Thanks
Jr
#2
#3
Rennlist Member
this is a common issue with these tops. the latching motors housed in the top frame of the windshield are subject to failure and are part of a factory recall. mine recently failed and the dealer still honored the recall without hesitation.
the motor is not overly difficult to replace but the part is north of $300 ea if I remember.
some people have purchased replacement motor gears and rebuilt the motors themselves. the gears are the failure item. that is an option if the recall has already been done.
the motor is not overly difficult to replace but the part is north of $300 ea if I remember.
some people have purchased replacement motor gears and rebuilt the motors themselves. the gears are the failure item. that is an option if the recall has already been done.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like a worm-gear issue. Similar problem that I had, would take a couple of times for the latch to open up. When you get it open, take out the motor and open up to see the gearing--chances are that you will see a bad cog.
It is possible to replace just the gear, there are a few threads on it. That said, I wasn't able to get just the gear off, and ended up buying a used motor from a RL'er.
It is possible to replace just the gear, there are a few threads on it. That said, I wasn't able to get just the gear off, and ended up buying a used motor from a RL'er.
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Thanks for the info. I'll check it out this w/e. I called the dealer. Seems that both (drivers/passengers) motors were replaced about 8 years ago, so they used up the recall. As a side note, the dealer quoted me $1200 for a new motor plus $350 labor.......
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Does anyone know if there is a way to manually unlatch the side w/ the broken gear?
Since the top is stuck closed I can't get to the motor. From what I'm reading in the o.manual, it looks like the manual top open/close is only for once the latches are disengaged. Or am I reading that wrong.
Thanks again for any input.
Jr
Since the top is stuck closed I can't get to the motor. From what I'm reading in the o.manual, it looks like the manual top open/close is only for once the latches are disengaged. Or am I reading that wrong.
Thanks again for any input.
Jr
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Does anyone know if there is a way to manually unlatch the side w/ the broken gear?
Since the top is stuck closed I can't get to the motor. From what I'm reading in the o.manual, it looks like the manual top open/close is only for once the latches are disengaged. Or am I reading that wrong.
Thanks again for any input.
Jr
Since the top is stuck closed I can't get to the motor. From what I'm reading in the o.manual, it looks like the manual top open/close is only for once the latches are disengaged. Or am I reading that wrong.
Thanks again for any input.
Jr
Once you have access to the motor, it is a very easy DIY to replace the motor (and the gear itself isn't too hard to get to either). For the price of the dealer's labor, you should easily be able to get a hold of a motor.
#9
Rennlist Member
Too bad you are not close by because with just a couple screw driver and one hours time you would be fixed and zero $ cost .
There is nothing wrong with the motors just rotate or replace the gear . That simple !
the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open the motor case with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace or rotate the damaged latch gear teeth out of the way:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly in the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure, OR,
6. Simply rotate the existing gear's damaged teeth to the position that they will not come into contact again with the worm gear (which is what I did - cheap fix).
Again just follow this http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...tch-motor.html .
Again if you want a new gear http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...or%20Gear.aspx
Cheers Guy
There is nothing wrong with the motors just rotate or replace the gear . That simple !
the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open the motor case with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace or rotate the damaged latch gear teeth out of the way:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly in the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure, OR,
6. Simply rotate the existing gear's damaged teeth to the position that they will not come into contact again with the worm gear (which is what I did - cheap fix).
Again just follow this http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...tch-motor.html .
Again if you want a new gear http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...or%20Gear.aspx
Cheers Guy
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Briefescape....thx for info. It's this w/e's project. And yep you're a bit far, however what a roadtrip that would be!
I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.
thx
JR
I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.
thx
JR
#11
Hello jr, I'm engaged in similar work. While you likely already know this, the owner's manual indicates the top is "unlockable" by turning the motors manually. This is accomplished by inserting a flat-head screwdriver in the small opening in the front top frame panel; there is one opening for each motor. The rotation direction for unlocking is counter-clockwise, which is a bit intuitive, but, on my first try, it was taking so long that I wasn't sure. I've found turning them with a variable-speed drill to be useful.
Having written all that, it would seem that, in order to unlock the top, the worm gear must be meshed with the helical gear fitted to the locking/unlocking arm. If helical gear teeth are broken, I'm not certain how one might unlock the top. Were you successful in getting it unlocked?
I have a Word file with many instructions and photographs related to this work, all from a number of posts on this site. Let me know an email to which I can send it, or perhaps someone else can tell me how to allow you to locate my email address.
Boosted330, do you happen to have photographs of gear orientations when you finished your repair?
Having written all that, it would seem that, in order to unlock the top, the worm gear must be meshed with the helical gear fitted to the locking/unlocking arm. If helical gear teeth are broken, I'm not certain how one might unlock the top. Were you successful in getting it unlocked?
I have a Word file with many instructions and photographs related to this work, all from a number of posts on this site. Let me know an email to which I can send it, or perhaps someone else can tell me how to allow you to locate my email address.
Boosted330, do you happen to have photographs of gear orientations when you finished your repair?
Last edited by dlg993; 10-05-2013 at 01:50 AM. Reason: learned something in doing the work
#12
Any suggestions how to unlatch manually if/when the gear teeth are broken? I tried removing the 4 hex bolts which hold the latch motor in place, but that didn't seem to work. The motor assembly is still held in position by the stuck latch. Opening the right side latch just jams the left side in tighter.
Thanks,
Piglet