Replace entire lifters or just the O ring?
#1
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Replace entire lifters or just the O ring?
I have replaced more than a few sets of lifters on different cars so far, and I always find that the O ring is usually either in tatters, or totally disappeared. My understanding is, without the O ring, the pressurization of the lifter is compromised, and thus the lifter will start to make noise etc.
That got me wondering how many lifters I have thrown out that were actually not worn out, but just the seal through the O ring was broken, and just replacing the O ring might result in a good functional lifter.
The removal of the lifter may be a problem - sometimes they require a real pull which may damage them, but assuming in they come out OK ->
Has anyone tried to first of all sourced the O rings (Viton would be the best), and tried this with the existing lifters to see if they pressurize properly?
Yeah, I know the argument about if you go to the trouble of getting into the engine, you might as well replace them, but for the DIY'er, that might be saving quite a few bucks assuming 12 O rings is cheaper than 12 new lifters, and the lifters do not have excessive mileage ...
Cheers,
Mike
That got me wondering how many lifters I have thrown out that were actually not worn out, but just the seal through the O ring was broken, and just replacing the O ring might result in a good functional lifter.
The removal of the lifter may be a problem - sometimes they require a real pull which may damage them, but assuming in they come out OK ->
Has anyone tried to first of all sourced the O rings (Viton would be the best), and tried this with the existing lifters to see if they pressurize properly?
Yeah, I know the argument about if you go to the trouble of getting into the engine, you might as well replace them, but for the DIY'er, that might be saving quite a few bucks assuming 12 O rings is cheaper than 12 new lifters, and the lifters do not have excessive mileage ...
Cheers,
Mike
#2
Three Wheelin'
Hi mike, I am about to do this and have a question for you. How do you remove the lifter? Ive only removed them from small blocks before and was going to assume the same lifter pull tool could be used on these. Am I correct or do I need a cool Porsche tool?
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[QUOTE=jhg41977;10753885]Hi mike, I am about to do this and have a question for you. How do you remove the lifter? Ive only removed them from small blocks before and was going to assume the same lifter pull tool could be used on these. Am I correct or do I need a cool Porsche tool? [/QUOTE
Standard tools to get the rocker itself out - then use a pair of pliers and yank....
They sometimes get jammed, so put the rocker in a vice and then use a bigger pair of pliers.
The bigger the tool, the more risk to the lifter, but if you are replacing them anyways...
Cheers,
Mike
Standard tools to get the rocker itself out - then use a pair of pliers and yank....
They sometimes get jammed, so put the rocker in a vice and then use a bigger pair of pliers.
The bigger the tool, the more risk to the lifter, but if you are replacing them anyways...
Cheers,
Mike
#5
While we are on lifters, I notice some sites list two different part numbers for the entire range of 993s (.5 mm shorter). What is the right part number for the lifters? What cases would .5 shorter lift be used?
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I'm not sure that I would ever think about reusing lifters that are intergral to the rockers like in our cars. Lifters for push rod anything heck yea!
When I rebuilt my engine last year and replaced all lifters they seemed VERY fragile when I removed them. Granted, I did use a BAP (big-***-pliers) that are used to dealing with barb wire and other micro-electric parts but I would think that the comfort of of a new $30 lifter would outweigh the aggravation of knowing whether or not a new o-ring fixed a previous issue.
As I understand it, the shorter lifters are used after valve jobs that new valves were used in that were longer in order to compensate for the new grind depth and maintain the correct geometry. Again, when my head work was done by Steve W, he brought the new valve stem length back to "original" in order to use stock standard lifters. I believe the shorter lifters are way more $'s.
When I rebuilt my engine last year and replaced all lifters they seemed VERY fragile when I removed them. Granted, I did use a BAP (big-***-pliers) that are used to dealing with barb wire and other micro-electric parts but I would think that the comfort of of a new $30 lifter would outweigh the aggravation of knowing whether or not a new o-ring fixed a previous issue.
As I understand it, the shorter lifters are used after valve jobs that new valves were used in that were longer in order to compensate for the new grind depth and maintain the correct geometry. Again, when my head work was done by Steve W, he brought the new valve stem length back to "original" in order to use stock standard lifters. I believe the shorter lifters are way more $'s.
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#8
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The lifter seals are not an o-ring they are molded in the form of a cap the fits over the end of the cartridge. I have never seen them for sale.
#9
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The lifter seals are not available separately from the lifter.
Lord knows, I've tried every way I know to source them, however its a non-starter. Wrightwood cannot get them and neither can some really good German sources of mine.
They fail from extended exposure to heat and wholesale replacement is the only choice, for now.
Lord knows, I've tried every way I know to source them, however its a non-starter. Wrightwood cannot get them and neither can some really good German sources of mine.
They fail from extended exposure to heat and wholesale replacement is the only choice, for now.
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Yeah, I agree that the removal process is a problem without screwing up a lifter.
Cheers,
Mike