Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Help! - Car not accelerating or idling well after temp at replacing sparks and wir

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-24-2013 | 11:48 AM
  #16  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default



Old 08-24-2013 | 11:50 AM
  #17  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default


This hose? is what i responded in the email IXLR8
Old 08-24-2013 | 11:57 AM
  #18  
Ponchobroke's Avatar
Ponchobroke
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 476
Likes: 45
From: So. Oregon
Default

Sorry to hear your problem but if you are running without the heater box you might want to plug the vacuum line sitting on top of he distributor. Vacuum is critical on these engines. I would also check the vacuum tee under the intake plenum, it might have pulled when you were routing the wires.
Old 08-24-2013 | 01:23 PM
  #19  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Originally Posted by Ponchobroke
Sorry to hear your problem but if you are running without the heater box you might want to plug the vacuum line sitting on top of he distributor. Vacuum is critical on these engines. I would also check the vacuum tee under the intake plenum, it might have pulled when you were routing the wires.
I am using the heater box. Now the "vacuum tee under the intake plenum" , where is that? Sorry not used to all these terms yet.

Here is an update video of the problem same thing... :/ Also i cant seem to find where this white clear hose goes. I think one goes to the right of the heat coil on the bottom left tube of the engine. but i dont know where the other goes if that could effect the car.

Old 08-24-2013 | 01:28 PM
  #20  
Ponchobroke's Avatar
Ponchobroke
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 476
Likes: 45
From: So. Oregon
Default

Follow the vacuum tube that was on top of the distributor about 10" it will connect into a tee. Make sure the other tubes are also still connected.
Old 08-24-2013 | 01:29 PM
  #21  
IXLR8's Avatar
IXLR8
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,543
Likes: 712
From: Canada & the Alps
Default

Originally Posted by dmurchison
Also i cant seem to find where this white clear hose goes.
One end goes onto the primary distributor body and the other end onto the black plastic tube off the electric fan.



Old 08-24-2013 | 01:34 PM
  #22  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Ya there when i unplug it there is vacume has i can hear the air coming out. This is the one you mean i believe.

Old 08-24-2013 | 01:40 PM
  #23  
IXLR8's Avatar
IXLR8
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,543
Likes: 712
From: Canada & the Alps
Default

Originally Posted by dmurchison
Ya there when i unplug it there is vacuum as I can hear the air coming out. This is the one you mean i believe.
That appears to be the one that connects to the valve on the left side. That valve is attached to the plastic intake vent tube by two screws. Either plug it with a screw as a test or connect it.
Old 08-24-2013 | 01:44 PM
  #24  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Thanks for the pic of the white/clear tube, i put it in but nothings changed.
Old 08-24-2013 | 01:56 PM
  #25  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

All the tubes in this direction seem to be in to my knowledge.
Old 08-24-2013 | 03:34 PM
  #26  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Looks like I'm going to have to take it to the shop Monday
Old 08-24-2013 | 04:09 PM
  #27  
pp000830's Avatar
pp000830
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,839
Likes: 1,588
From: Dallas, TX
Default

I noticed that the Bosch and Beru have slightly different metal connection posts on their distributor caps. Both cap styles work well however if I use the Bosch cap I must use extra care to make sure the wires are fully seated.
Old 08-24-2013 | 04:12 PM
  #28  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Ya i have 3 month old bosch caps on the distributors. I unplugged all the caps and reinstalled them. Still no luck.
Old 08-24-2013 | 06:59 PM
  #29  
IXLR8's Avatar
IXLR8
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,543
Likes: 712
From: Canada & the Alps
Default

Originally Posted by dmurchison
Thanks for the pic of the white/clear tube, i put it in but nothings changed.
It is only used to supply air to the distributor to clear out ozone which is hard on rubber, in this case, the rubber toothed distributor drive belt.
Old 08-24-2013 | 07:06 PM
  #30  
zenithblue993's Avatar
zenithblue993
Thread Starter
Racer
 
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

Oh ok i see. Ya i don't know what the problem is, i've been just staring at my engine trying to figure it out.

Am i suppose to transfer a rubber guide from the old beru wires to the new? Thats the only thing i didn't do following the write up.

" The soft rubber guide has to be cut off the old wires & slid onto the new ones - a nice new, sharp single edge razor blade goes through it 'like buddah' "

~~ http://p-car.com/diy/sparkplugwire/


Quick Reply: Help! - Car not accelerating or idling well after temp at replacing sparks and wir



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:02 PM.