question re: getting car on jackstands
 

This past winter, I put my car on jackstand to work on it.

I would start at the back jack point, jack the car up and place a stand under the front point.

I would then place a second floor jack under the engine and place the rear stands.

I would then place the last front jack stand.

I could only get the car up about 3 notches in the stand, without running the risk of having the car canteliever at the placement of the 1st jackstand - if I raised the rear of the car too high from the rear.

How did this guy get his car so high on these jackatands?

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4570/w8rz.jpg

Please dont attempt this at home. He's a professional :D

J/K after the initial lift, you'd go back and repeat the process again lifting from the engine, raise the rear stands higher. Then lift the front using a piece of board raising the stands higher. Make sure you have good and stable stands like those in Rudy's pic.

Perhaps I should invest in the EBSCO stands..

My jackstands have a U shaped 1/2 inch metal contact point where it meets the jacking point on the jar - to much of an angle past 20 degrees and it seems it might slide off :o

Unless dropping the engine and/or transaxle, I would question the necessity of raising the vehicle that high.

CRW,

I wondered that as well. See: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...kstands-5.html

YMMV, but you could use a long wooden board and jack under the trunk pan. I've known a few people who have done this without issue.

Try this, from Cactus

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...p-a-993-a.html

ESCO jack stands?
=
nice, solid, well-built, great support tops, but the lowest setting is ~ 2" too high for my tastes.
Wish they were a tad shorter.

Craig

You should raise the car the minimum amount for what you are trying to do. I would never add blocks to jack stands ore anything that may contribute to instability:

As the French say “to die for love” is a good thing however I think they are speaking of this while under something other than a car!

Another option is to use liftbars, http://liftbars.com/, or make something similar yourself. I've never used them but looking at the pictures the area where it sits in the jackstand is rounded so it can fit securely in a traditional saddle type of jackstand and rotate freely as the two sides of the car are at differing heights during the lifting process.

GC

I use a slight modification of Cactus' method. I made four blocks out of 2x8s (each is 5" tall by 7" wide). I first jack up the four corners using the jacking points and put one of these blocks under each wheel. This raises the car enough that the front still clears when the back is jacked up to place the car on the jackstands.

I then raise the rear of the car by jacking under the engine and placing the jackstands (ESCO) at the rear jacking points. I then raise the front of the car using the jack and placing a 2x4 behind the bumper cover (I wrap a couple of towels around the 2x4 to protect the bottom of the car) and place the jackstands under the front jacking points.

OK THX

It is apparent the the car feels rear-baised fro a weight standpoint when jacking up the car.

Speading the weight across the front tub using this method likely doesn't run the risk of denting it in..

Not that it really makes a difference on the general procedure for lifting high, but the car in the pic is a 911. Different lift points, although you can still use the bottom of the case to raise the rear.

I know there are a million opinions on this - but I stopped using the engine case for a jack point after meeting a man who had his engine mounts crack after using the engine case as a lift point.

Well, he at least found out about the bad part. Good reason to make sure one's engine mounts are sound.