bcameron59

ooh nice clean heads, too bad I forgot to get a pic of the valves... maybe when I pull them off again
and to think I chuckled at MikeJ when he forgot his air baffles...
OK, got the oil tubes right this time. Too bad it all has to come apart again

- that's about it for now, unless you'd like to see pics of specific stuff,
cheers/bc

bcameron59

Thx to all who replied, and especially MikeJ, a star as always. I did know about replacing circlips and will check out everything when the P&Cs are out... might even think about doing the rod bolts, whups that slope's getting slippery again

cheers/bc

Mike J

If you do the rod bolts, then you are into more machining, and possibly re-bushing the rods - but having ARP bolts on the rods is a good feeling, since that is a weak spot... if the car has not been over-revved, they should be fine.

One thing I do not like doing the rods with the block together - you cannot use a stretch gauge, but have to rely on torque. Yes, I know its accurate enough, but the engineer in me really likes that exact 17 thou of stretch -- :-)

Cheers,

Mike

bcameron59

Thanks Mike, can you elaborate a little on "machining"? As usual, the manual is rather laconic, the section on connecting rods (13 40 38) just says:

• how to do the swap
• warns that if you have the 3-ring knurled bolt you have to replace the entire rod assembly (!!)
• explains how to check the fit of the knurled ring bolt

Trying to figure out what has to be machined - rod bushings? Rods? Presumably not the crank since the case is still together.

bcameron59

Buddy Rob (who now owns my former '79 SC) came over yesterday to help with piston extraction, all went well. For the curious here's a few more pix:

1. Valve side of the heads after Steve Wiener finished with them. Compare with pic in post #15

2. Rob working on #2 cylinder. Somehow the engine reminds me of a sewing machine. It was a warm day, the garage was definitely a sweat shop. Meanwhile our spousal units were cooking up a fabulous lamb dinner...

3. Me lifting #2 a bit more... don't want those rings to pop out like they did on the first one (was able to ease them back in with no harm done)

bcameron59

After struggling to get the first circlip off the wrist pin, we were briefly stymied about how to pull the wrist pin through the rod and piston. No doubt there's a special tool for that, but I don't have it.

1) Finally came up with the idea of using a long bolt and threading the nut on the far side

2) then holding the bolt with pliers and tapping the pliers with a rubber mallet until the pin was pulled all the way out.

3) low tech method to protect the rods from banging on the sides of the cylinder openings on the case: wrapped them with nitrile gloves (powder-free of course)

bcameron59

1. What pistons look like from below

2. a sample wrist pin, none of them appear to have any scoring but they are all discoloured like this one (two brownish rings where they contact the pistons). Is that what they're supposed to look like or is this bad awfulness?

3. The counter at my favourite jewelry store.

Paul902

Impressive stuff, Brian! This is an educational thread for me. Subscribed.

Ed Hughes

I'd also suggest not messing with the rod bolts, while the case is together. Funny, when I had my old 911 motor apart the last time, I couldn't find my circlip tool, amd wanted to install pistons that day. Made a pretty darn good substitute out of a copper pipe fitting, my bench grinder and a long socket. Worked like a charm.

Good luck

trophy

Nice progression Brian....

bcameron59

Still mulling over the rod bolts, thanks Steven (Trophy) for the great deal on the ARP's, not to mention the donated cylinder / case gaskets. I'm away camping with the family this week so have lots of time to think about it, will update in a week or so.

Speaking of Trophy, I had a peek at what he's doing with his 993 and I was thunderstruck, this car was already fast but omigod it's going to be dang near uncatchable when he's got it back together. Don't mean to steal Steven's thunder but you'll be reading about it soon in a Porsche-focused periodical near you...

e3photo

Looking good. Can't wait to be putting mine back together.


Emerald

bcameron59

I've been a tad delinquent in posting my progress on the engine reassembly. To make a long story short:


As you can see (or hear), the idle is rather high at this first startup (around 3000 rpm). Not sure why this is but am guessing the new lightweight flywheel may have something to do with it. I'd like to sort this out before I run the 20 minute break-in session and oil change.

You may also notice that I have shamelessly plagiarized ASH.PALIN's yellow fan... I really liked the look (see thread "Engine bay bling", post #6). Later I will paint oil filler cap to match.

I mentioned chuckling at Mike J's omission of the air baffles (on his engine rebuild thread on pcarworkshop), forcing an R&R of his cam carriers, and then you saw I forgot my oil return tubes and had to do the same thing.

Well, it gets better... while Mike forgot to time one set of cams 180 degrees out from the first, I managed to set my timing on BOTH sets 180 degrees out - in other words, distributor rotor was pointing to cylinder 4 at TDC on compression stroke for cylinder 1, and at cylinder 1 for TDC compression on cylinder 4.

So... pull off the AC bracket, pulley, power steering belt, both chain covers, clean off sealant, retime both sets of cams, and then put everything back together again... Oh well, at least I caught this before I put the engine back in. And I've got that cam timing thing pretty much down after LOTS of practice.

If there's any interest I could post some pics of reassembly... but right now I'm packing it in for the night.

Mike J

Cool and congratulations! Lots of reasons it could be at 3000, but that is still good, that is a great break-in run rate. Do not idle the car for that breakin, make sure it moving right along to bed all those bearings, etc.

The noise seemed to be a bit metallic, but its often hard to tell with the microphones on the cameras. Does it sound normal in real-life? The lifters may also be pressurizing, and lots of new materials are being bedded in ...

Looking forward to seeing how the break-in goes!

Cheers,

Mike

bcameron59

Thx Mike, the noise in person seems normal, albeit pretty loud, as the mufflers aren't on. I did pull the DME and crank a few times to bring up oil pressure before taking the video - so no lifter noise (I know the sound from when I started up after storing all winter last year).

I posted separately about the 3k idle and Steve W gave the same advice as you, ie go ahead with break-in, except he said just 10 minutes for cams/rockers. Makes sense because the only new mechanical parts are the valves and guides; didn't do rings or crank bushings etc, ie top end only.

Tonight I'll run the break-in, and if idle drops I'll bring RPMs back up with my right foot. Then change oil & filters, look for big chunks of metal (for potential article in Excellence ) and double check for vacuum leaks.

Will talk to Steve tomorrow, and update here. Here's hoping for no loud bangs or flying parts...

EDIT: continued at thread titled "Fast idle after top end rebuild and LWF install":
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...f-install.html