IXLR8

You certainly can and I did so the first time I changed the oil on my 993 (due to DIYs on the web), but have since always removed the rear wheel and front half of the fender liner when changing the oil reservoir oil filter.

I didn't like the "pulling the fender liner out of the way" method as it abrades against the rolled edge of the fender. In time, that is hard on the paint.

Sure, to each their own, but there is a right way of doing things.

IXLR8

Dan, how do you cross-thread a line fitting that slides into place? Are we talking about the oil line under the small (engine) oil filter or the large line on the other side of the engine?

I remove the oil line at the oil filter simply because it is easy to remove if done every oil change (or at least annually).

When I bought the car, that fitting was so stuck in place due to never having been removed (I didn't use the pry method). Like the dual distributor which can be a pain to extract due to the O-ring having "set"...same for that oil line.

e9stibi

+2. Much easier to do and better for the liner.

Mike J

This is exactly what I was thinking when I checked this morning and saw that comment. I guess it's possible to cross thread the bolt that seats the line, but it does not sounds like what Dan was talking about. I think the first time is what makes people nervous since that O ring might have been in that position since the car was built to the line would be pretty seated, but once its been done once, it's much easier.

Cheers,

Mike

Mike J

Hmm, i only remove the entire liner if I am going to adjust the oil level sensor - otherwise I find if you unhook the liner from the inside retaining stud, and the bottom screws are off, you can pull/flex the liner so it just pulls away without any significant abrasion - much like taking the entire liner out. I would not just pry out the liner, I do flex it away from the fender when it gets pulled away.

Regardless, I usually remove the wheel just because its easy on the lift, the and the car is in the air anyways. i was just pointing out it's possible to do this with the wheel on, and do it with relatively no damaging components. It is a more cramped method for sure though.

I suspect this will be a long thread ...

Cheers,

Mike

axl911

Changing the oil on the 993 is sooooooo complicated that it takes 4 pages of discussion!!!

JB 911

somebody needs to invent a disconnect one pipe, attach pump flush system....

axl911

It ain't the complications of getting the oil out, but it's getting to the filters.

Porsche Engineering reach the zenith of anti-ergonomic design by hiding one oil filter under the rocker panel and the other deep inside the engine surrounded by the engine, suspension components, air heater tubes, and hard oil lines!!!

And people says the placement of switches (sunroof for example) is bad. They should try to change the 993 oil + filters.

Wait...there is one better....the upper cyl 6 sparkplug! (Well, at least they provided an access panel entry)

EMBPilot

Those of you w scissor lifts, do u find the arm blocks full access to the big filter, and blocks using a wide stand up oil drain dolly? Any tricks?

Mike J

Same problem on my 2 post lift. I have a lift jack where, once the car is up on the lift, I can support the weight of a corner and swing the arm away for access. I do that where the tank is so it's free and clear. Is there the equivalent for scissor lifts?



Well, a panel only on the wide body cars .. sigh. After doing quite a few cars now, its not as hard as it used to be though. My usual pattern is doing all 6 on the right side from the bottom, and for the left side, doing the bottom 3 from the bottom, and the top 3 from the top. Its the occasional stuck bolt in some awkward position that usually challenges the job - and takes the time.

Cheers,

Mike

XavierLaFlamme

I have a Bend-Pak. I just pull the car a little farther forward and position the arm so that the bolt for the arm is slid back towards the edge. This allows plenty of room. I also take the plastic sill piece off before raising the car.

--Michael

DanL993

You know, it's been awhile since I did it the one time I had to. I am talking about reinserting the oil line that runs under the smaller filter. Seems I recall having to use a threaded coupling (and to massage the rubber portion further up the line) to get it back on.

IXLR8

Dan, that fitting just slides in although you do have to overcome the two O-rings on the fitting. That fitting is then held in place by an M8 bolt which holds the fitting's tab to the block.

Sorry no pic of my own.

bruce7

Hey Alex, here's a pic of that oil tube. Also tossed in a couple of the
form-a-funnel I used last time. Made a big difference is the amount of
spillage (almost none). I held the funnel with my left hand while removing
the drain plug with the right as I wasn't sure the funnel would stay in place.

I change those o-rings each time. Now since I bought the Molykote 55 to
install the lower valve cover gaskets, I'm using the o-ring grease to lube the
oil tube o-rings and the filter gaskets instead of motor oil.

The o-rings shown here are green and were on the car when I got it.
All the ones I've installed have been black I think.

-bruce

IXLR8

Bruce, how old is your Form-A-Funnel and how often have you used it, formed it?

I was thinking of getting one, but then came across many reports of them de-laminating...the plastic covering coming off the lead sheet.