smooth stalling...cause?
06-30-2013, 11:40 AM
#1
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smooth stalling...cause?
It happened to me twice now, and i'm starting to think that it is less due to driver error -which I thought at first- than a car malfunctioning issue. I'm hoping someone can help me discover the cause
The car: 98 993 manual cab (midnight blue/tan), 72k. New clutch (3 months old) and new alternator and belts (6 months old).
The situation: in 2 instances did the car "die" softly and slowly on me, when driving at slow speed, low gear, turning into a parking spot or around a corner, with clutch fully pressed in. Hot weather, air conditioning on, fan on 2. Car restarts and drives as if nothing ever happened. Was considering a clutch or alternator issue, but both are new, and the battery shows a nice full charge (I have an obd reader constantly plugged in).
Any thoughts on what it could be?
Thx!
Jf
The car: 98 993 manual cab (midnight blue/tan), 72k. New clutch (3 months old) and new alternator and belts (6 months old).
The situation: in 2 instances did the car "die" softly and slowly on me, when driving at slow speed, low gear, turning into a parking spot or around a corner, with clutch fully pressed in. Hot weather, air conditioning on, fan on 2. Car restarts and drives as if nothing ever happened. Was considering a clutch or alternator issue, but both are new, and the battery shows a nice full charge (I have an obd reader constantly plugged in).
Any thoughts on what it could be?
Thx!
Jf
06-30-2013, 12:05 PM
#2
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This has happened too me a couple of times as I pulled into garage. From what I gathered from reading other people's comments is that it could be a failing DME relay.
It has not happened to me lately, and it may be because I remove the relay after changing oil to be sure I circulate oil through the engine before starting up. It may be that when re-installing, I have made a better connection. No proof though.
It has not happened to me lately, and it may be because I remove the relay after changing oil to be sure I circulate oil through the engine before starting up. It may be that when re-installing, I have made a better connection. No proof though.
06-30-2013, 08:18 PM
#3
Vacuum leaks!!!
One way to tell is take your finger and wipe the rear bumper. Is there dry black soot on the bumper? If there is, then you have a vacuum leak. Happened to my car.
One way to tell is take your finger and wipe the rear bumper. Is there dry black soot on the bumper? If there is, then you have a vacuum leak. Happened to my car.
06-30-2013, 08:25 PM
#4
More then likely your engine ECU lost it's stored values and is out of wack.
It will correct it's self or you can disconnect the battery for a couple hours and start the "learning" process over. The key is not touching the throttle for the idle phase, pretty common issue on 96-98.
Hopefully it isn't the gap on the TDC sensor after the clutch work.
The black soot is from killing tires.
It will correct it's self or you can disconnect the battery for a couple hours and start the "learning" process over. The key is not touching the throttle for the idle phase, pretty common issue on 96-98.
Hopefully it isn't the gap on the TDC sensor after the clutch work.
The black soot is from killing tires.
06-30-2013, 08:31 PM
#5
Uh oh. I have the dry black soot on the back of the car after every drive but always figured it was brake dust. It runs great and just passed CA smog easily. Did you have any other symptoms in addition to the soot?
06-30-2013, 08:48 PM
#6
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My thoughts,
Heavy electrical load, ECU or relay does not have minimum power to continue to operate and control ignition. Ignition shuts down. Is you battery good? Does your alternator put out the proper voltage when under load?
Andy :-)
Heavy electrical load, ECU or relay does not have minimum power to continue to operate and control ignition. Ignition shuts down. Is you battery good? Does your alternator put out the proper voltage when under load?
Andy :-)
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06-30-2013, 10:44 PM
#8
07-01-2013, 10:04 PM
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thank you
Thank you all for your thoughts.
I will try to reposition the relay and see if the situation improves. I did notice that my batterie drops to 13.1 on idle at times -but reverts to 14 when driving-. So it could be battery too. I wonder if my ac drains more than it should.
Stay tuned. Thank you!
I will try to reposition the relay and see if the situation improves. I did notice that my batterie drops to 13.1 on idle at times -but reverts to 14 when driving-. So it could be battery too. I wonder if my ac drains more than it should.
Stay tuned. Thank you!
07-02-2013, 08:49 AM
#11
The other day, with the engine at idle, the locally O'Reilly's said my alternator output was 50 amps at 13.77 volts.
What are good or expected numbers?
07-02-2013, 03:24 PM
#13
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07-02-2013, 04:27 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
I think your voltage drop at idle has nothing to do with this and is normal. Stalling could be caused by computer re-learning how to idle if you've recently disconnected battery. If not, I would bet dollars to doughnuts (which was a much more meaningful bet when doughnuts were 25 cents instead of 95) that it is not electrical (other than possibly fuel pump, as suggested above). I would first clean the idle control valve, since it is an idle situation....
{PS -- my car must have a pretty bad vacuum leak, as it is covered in black soot. I used to think it was because I didn't wash it, though....}
{PS -- my car must have a pretty bad vacuum leak, as it is covered in black soot. I used to think it was because I didn't wash it, though....}
07-02-2013, 04:34 PM
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