IXLR8

Mine weren't that bad, just oily and after taking the heat exchangers off, I noticed both of them had a film of oil and dirt on the insides.

For the record, now four summers later, the new set of upper and lower valve cover rubber seals are still keeping it all bone dry.

MarkD

Good point
Quality replacements are <$1 each
I wouldn't risk it

Turbodan

how long does it take to change the lower valve covers?

EMBPilot

Should be an hour or less. Very easy work

vincer77

I ordered these replacement bolts from Mcmaster Carr as the Porsche ones were too soft. I had to use a bolt extractor on a couple of the lower valve cover bolts.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91274a143/=10ibnjw

nine9six

Harold,
The fasteners dont need to be replaced, depending on the condition of the 5mm allen hex in the fasteners.

When removing the bolts, if the 1/4" drive, shorty, 5mm allen socket (what I use) is not completely seated, you can strip the hex. If the fastener hex heads are in good shape; the fasteners are steel, and the heads internal thds. are aluminum, so the only risk is over tightening (7 ft lbs) and pulling the alum internal thds. This is not an issue if you respect the torque tightening spec.

P.S. I did my lower VC gaskets no problem, without removing the HE's, but I was installing Fister II's at the time, so not sure if the mufflers or mounting hardware pose any additional problems.

BILLET VC's ARE A HUGE WASTE OF $$$

vincer77

The Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover is da bomb! I tried all sorts of cleaners to remove the white coating on the valve covers including the dishwasher. After I saw this post, I sprayed the TW and waited. Voila the stuff just wiped clean. Thanks!

bruce7

Google has changed the photo album link so the pdf document has been
updated.

I'll post the new link here also:

https://goo.gl/photos/uum38j2tMJwgbwuj6

-bruce7

flyweight

I ordered some of these. What kind of washers do you recommend to go with these? Thx.

SonnyT

The Porsche part no is 90006723801

Just Google it, all the vendors carry the bolt and washer combo under a $1 each and it has the right plating/aesthetic instead of the zinc coated ones

flyweight

Well, the 100 McMaster screws just arrived on my doorstep. Wish more complete info on the washers were available. Oh well, can't have everything handed to me on a silver plate, can I?

I'm taking the advice and ordered the OEM bolt/washer combo.

IXLR8

I don't know where people are getting the idea the socket-head cap screws are too soft. They are a Grade 8.8 fastener and they even have a full sized head on them, not like those shallow heads used for the seat rails or alternator pulley (which should only use a shallow head fastener).

When I had mine out they were installed by the factory 14 years ago and they all came out without any issue. Clean the cavity out so that you can full insert the hex bit and use a metric bit, not an SAE bit that is "close" in size. The hex bit sockets are available standard or short in length if clearances are an issue; I have both. And if you are still worried, insert the socket on the clean fastener and give it a tap (not a blow) head-on with the hammer.

flyweight

These screws do require precision and preparation to remove, but I agree that they are way better than the ones holding down the seats (I still have mental scars from dealing with those). And I also found out that it was super easy to use a bolt extractor to get these out if stripped. So now I'm feeling comfortable about using these OEM bolts.

IXLR8

And if the valve covers are leaking, tightening the fasteners more will make zero difference if they are already torqued to spec. The valve covers have aluminum spacers built into them and once they seat flush against the engine, tightening them more won't change anything..

Torque is 9.7 Nm or 7 lbf.ft or 84 lbf.in.