DIY - Changing Lower Valve Cover Gaskets
#31
Rennlist Member
For the record, now four summers later, the new set of upper and lower valve cover rubber seals are still keeping it all bone dry.
#32
Rennlist Member
The corrosion coatings on any fastener that you find at home depot or lowes is thinner than thinly possible (i.e. garbage). And it would never come remotely close to passing even a Hugo/Tata fastener spec. And try to avoid black oxide, it's pretty much useless as a corrosion coating on anything exposed to the elements.
Quality replacements are <$1 each
I wouldn't risk it
#35
Rennlist Member
I ordered these replacement bolts from Mcmaster Carr as the Porsche ones were too soft. I had to use a bolt extractor on a couple of the lower valve cover bolts.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91274a143/=10ibnjw
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91274a143/=10ibnjw
#36
The fasteners dont need to be replaced, depending on the condition of the 5mm allen hex in the fasteners.
When removing the bolts, if the 1/4" drive, shorty, 5mm allen socket (what I use) is not completely seated, you can strip the hex. If the fastener hex heads are in good shape; the fasteners are steel, and the heads internal thds. are aluminum, so the only risk is over tightening (7 ft lbs) and pulling the alum internal thds. This is not an issue if you respect the torque tightening spec.
P.S. I did my lower VC gaskets no problem, without removing the HE's, but I was installing Fister II's at the time, so not sure if the mufflers or mounting hardware pose any additional problems.
BILLET VC's ARE A HUGE WASTE OF $$$
Last edited by nine9six; 01-15-2016 at 02:50 AM.
#37
Rennlist Member
Cosmoline, hard to clean!
Bruce and all. Currently started down the path of clean, and will post a cleanup thread later.
In short, time is your best tool! I used the Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover, in a spray bottle. Put one coat on, and waited overnight. Next morning put a second coat, and by noon some sections wiped clean! A big wait is the key, I tried to rush it, but no go.
Neal
Bruce and all. Currently started down the path of clean, and will post a cleanup thread later.
In short, time is your best tool! I used the Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover, in a spray bottle. Put one coat on, and waited overnight. Next morning put a second coat, and by noon some sections wiped clean! A big wait is the key, I tried to rush it, but no go.
Neal
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Updated pdf with new link to photo album
Google has changed the photo album link so the pdf document has been
updated.
I'll post the new link here also:
https://goo.gl/photos/uum38j2tMJwgbwuj6
-bruce7
updated.
I'll post the new link here also:
https://goo.gl/photos/uum38j2tMJwgbwuj6
-bruce7
#39
Rennlist Member
I ordered these replacement bolts from Mcmaster Carr as the Porsche ones were too soft. I had to use a bolt extractor on a couple of the lower valve cover bolts.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91274a143/=10ibnjw
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91274a143/=10ibnjw
#40
Just Google it, all the vendors carry the bolt and washer combo under a $1 each and it has the right plating/aesthetic instead of the zinc coated ones
#41
Rennlist Member
I'm taking the advice and ordered the OEM bolt/washer combo.
#42
Rennlist Member
I don't know where people are getting the idea the socket-head cap screws are too soft. They are a Grade 8.8 fastener and they even have a full sized head on them, not like those shallow heads used for the seat rails or alternator pulley (which should only use a shallow head fastener).
When I had mine out they were installed by the factory 14 years ago and they all came out without any issue. Clean the cavity out so that you can full insert the hex bit and use a metric bit, not an SAE bit that is "close" in size. The hex bit sockets are available standard or short in length if clearances are an issue; I have both. And if you are still worried, insert the socket on the clean fastener and give it a tap (not a blow) head-on with the hammer.
When I had mine out they were installed by the factory 14 years ago and they all came out without any issue. Clean the cavity out so that you can full insert the hex bit and use a metric bit, not an SAE bit that is "close" in size. The hex bit sockets are available standard or short in length if clearances are an issue; I have both. And if you are still worried, insert the socket on the clean fastener and give it a tap (not a blow) head-on with the hammer.
#43
Rennlist Member
These screws do require precision and preparation to remove, but I agree that they are way better than the ones holding down the seats (I still have mental scars from dealing with those). And I also found out that it was super easy to use a bolt extractor to get these out if stripped. So now I'm feeling comfortable about using these OEM bolts.
#44
Rennlist Member
And if the valve covers are leaking, tightening the fasteners more will make zero difference if they are already torqued to spec. The valve covers have aluminum spacers built into them and once they seat flush against the engine, tightening them more won't change anything..
Torque is 9.7 Nm or 7 lbf.ft or 84 lbf.in.
Torque is 9.7 Nm or 7 lbf.ft or 84 lbf.in.