600RR

... and to bring it into the 21st century (and great busy work),
a. Window express (no weight gain)
b. Hood release button in driver's side brake duct (that was included in the earlier mods)
c. USB power in cut-out next to lighter
d. iPhone/iPod connection and TPMS in glove box or center console
e. RSD (yeah, big weight over no back seats)
f. Fire extinguisher
g.Trickle charger under driver's seat with coiled extension cord = simple, neat plug-in
h. Extra DME in fuse box or glove box (not a mod, but good idea)
i. "4th" brake light in place of rear fog lights
j. Billet pedal set
k. Painted rotor hats

Mike J

Hmm - I have not seen any RS motor mount upgrades that adversely impact ride comfort - in most cases, the mod was just neutral and was a waste of time/money, but perhaps that is just me. Maybe a bit of more noise from them. There was improvement in a few cases where the mounts were clearly shot.

I would have said that 19's can look great on the WB cars (especially the RUF's) but are harsher riding, 18's look better on narrow body cars and ride better, and there are not that many cars that continue to run 17's. Did you mean 19's instead of 18's?

Cheers,

Mike

Kika

Mike, perhaps I was a little harsh in my evaluation of the motor mounts, of the 20+ reviews I read, I think only one person was bothered by the increased NVH and sold his WEVO Blacks (which I bought). For the vast majority, WEVOs or RS mounts were a positive upgrade as the rear end is more planted. there is some increased NVH, but for most it is insignificant and/or tolerable.

I am thinking the suggestion is for 18s, particularly on a 95 which is a NB. 17s will be a softer, more comfy ride due to more sidewall, in general, but steering response improved when I went to 18s. Yes ride comfort suffered a little, but I am OK with it. The choice between 17s and 18s incorporates looks (personal preference), ride comfort and handling.

For a NB car, 19s in general are too big, but again, that is personal preference.

Porsche70T

Windshield clearplex should have been higher on my list.

VintageRacer477

Lots of good suggestions, one of which is ECU mod.

That raises the question: Whose ECU reprogramming is best? I have seen info on both GIAC via Rennsport Systems & Fabspeed's. GIAC claims +12 -15 hp, FS claims 18 hp for $100 more. Are there others? Whose is best over time? Maserati installs of some modified ECU have had problems after some time. In fact, my dealer stopped re-programming ECU's because of problems over time.

One of the Maser ECU suppliers offers a variety of custom tuning for performance at different rpm's, A/B switch for valet parking, higher max. rpm, and/or ungoverned top speed. Do any of the suppliers of ECU's for our 993's offer options like that?

PiB993

Eliminate standard battery in the frunk to lightweight performance battery under passenger seat (or rear seating area) shortening distance to starter and ignition coil.

I think I had read this before and Kevin mentioned something about this to me the distance to the battery up front was a potential weakness in the car. IIRC

pp000830

Replacing the struts if they have not been already even a basic set of H&R sport coil-overs will transform the ride quality and handling plus it can be an in the driveway DIY project!
I also like the HID aftermarket headlight kits. If you buy one with the slim ballast all the wiring including the ballast fits inside the headlight unit with no modifications to the car, also a DIY project. There are lots of age and wear related maintenance and repair projects to consider. The one I would sort out right away is the door check strap friction reduction modification as to repair the check strap mount in the a pillar once it is broken involves welding and paint, a well documented fix on Rennlist.
Andy :-)

espanolie

i'm also a more factory than aftermarket guy. although some things do enhance the spirited driving...exhaust note, short shift, springs for Euro height, to mention a few.

race911

Thanks for the quote, I guess. But what you said feeds into my comment--merely installing a different spring to change the ride height. Yes, you can go OE on that, but few did. (Talking about when the cars were new.) So you'd deliver a car back to the owner that was on its first step down that "less than the sum" path.

Case in point is the Ruf mods on the 996 Turbo. It's absolutely crap with the supplied PSS9s + 19" wheels. We're going on this Porsche drive tomorrow AM, and knowing the roads I'm absolutely regretting having signed up for it. I SHOULD just get up pre-dawn and jar my teeth for 1/2 hour out to the shop to be productive.

pp000830

Before compiling a list:
What is your intended end state , track, occasional autocross or street driving?
What level of drive train & body maintenance and unexpected repair are you willing to tolerate in the long run?
Andy

axl911

Loss of safety!!!

Have you driven your car in the rain and gotten really splashed on by the car in the next lane when they go over a puddle???

I have been through this...you get 10000% blinded. Can't see nothing because there is sooo much water. In that moment, you want the wiper to clear away the water asap. Time moves slowly while waiting for the wiper to clear away the water, and you're left wondering have you deviated from your lane or about to hit something.

Been there, done that, Porsche engineers clearly knew what they were doing.


I also installed one of those smaller, lovelier/cooler looking Vitaloni side mirrors. Biggest mistake since I can only see 30% of what I used to with the OEM mirror. Again, OEM is good, aftermarket bad.

911PERVY

If you are crazy enough to actually drive your car in the rain then you are correct, the water runs back up the screen (as the blade isnt there to stop it) and visibility is impaired.

I dont drive mine in the rain unless I get caught out, for me the benefits of having a nice clear view outweigh the problems with visibility. If mine was a daily drive I would not flip them.

So some of you guys drive at night too?

Martin S.

If you can fine them, and can afford them, get the 993 RS gears...new gears from 1st through 6th, LWF and a RS clutch/pressure plate.

I went the Po Boy route, stock 1st and 2nd, G50/31 3rd {I believe}***, and Motorsport 4th - 6th.

Spent over $8,500 overhauling the transmission, worth every penny. If I had to do it over again, I'd only do a few things:
1. M030 (RoW) suspension,
2. Close ratio gears, biggest bang for the buck!!!
3. 993 RS flywheel and clutch/pressure plate.
4. Factory SSK and Golden Rod
5. FD Motorsport Stage III mufflers with wide ovals, or 993 Sound Package mufflers if I happened to be in an all factory mode.

After all was said and done, I'd have a 993 pretty close to what was available to our European cousins. The resulting car would be a great street and DE car...but not a race car....that is a whole different story, and a lot of that preparation, as Cupcar mentioned earlier, is getting excess weight out of the car.

OverBoosted28

I'm about there also. I avoid bad roads, rain and don't really drive at night. I actually had to get off of freeway and put wipers on last week due to rain. They usually sleep in the frunk. Regarding mods or aftermarket not "working" or "enhancing" a 993. Seriously, yes some may be ridiculous, but alot are nec. to extract the most joy/performance that these cars are capable of. I know some things I've done were most likely a waste of time/money, but I have reaped the benefits of alot of upgrades that were more than worth the work/money/frustration of putting them in. I really can't stop. I'm in the middle of another "upgrade" :-)

NC TRACKRAT

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