1pcarnut

Come guys, lighten up, jeez. He was interested in some inspection tips, no need for the attitude.

To the OP, hope it works out for you, since the seller is a friend put her up on the rack (the car, not the friend) and poke around to your heart's content and let us know how it turns out. And welcome!!. Just learn to ignore Quad, most of us do.

Mark in Baltimore

You can become a member without having to raise your post count. It's eighteen measly dollars

No matter how skilled of a mechanic you are 1) you don't know much about 993's and 2) it's simply smarter to have someone who is objective perform a proper PPI, rather than have someone who can easily be unobjective do it. There's a reason physicians are told to not treat themselves.

BobbyT

(WARNING--LONG RESPONSE)

Here is a PPI article that you may be able to use as a guide:

The following is presented with permission of Paul Lighthill (RIP), who was the owner of Lighthill Motors, an independent repair facility specializing in Porsche. It was originally published in the Market Letter for Porsche Automobiles.

The Pre-Purchase Inspection
Part I, The Buyer's Inspection

Copyright 2000 by Paul Lighthill

A pre-purchase inspection performed properly by a technician with both
product knowledge and a broad experience base can save a prospective buyer
of a pre-owned Porsche thousands of dollars. Perhaps even more importantly,
it can help avoid the grief of having a dream car turn into a nightmare due
to hidden damage or excessive deferred maintenance. But the
professionally-performed inspection is actually just the final step in a
buying process that is largely under the control of the prospective buyer,
and one in which, to be successful, he must be fully engaged.

Deferred maintenance is a polite way of saying that the previous owner
didn't take care of his car. But make no mistake: a Porsche is more like a
Rolex than a Timex in that it has the potential to last 100 years if
properly maintained but will become a piece of very expensive junk if
neglected or abused. The Timex, on the other hand, will probably only last
three years and not be nearly so personally rewarding as the Rolex. And,
instead of maintaining it, you just throw it away when it breaks.

Although the vast majority of Porsche owners recognize this and give their
cars excellent care and feeding, there is always a few who will drive the
car for a few years, do absolutely nothing to it in the way of either
maintenance or repairs and, when confronted with a four or even five figure
repair estimate, would rather sell the car to some unsuspecting buyer than
face the music of their failure to understand the car and its requirements
of ownership. The challenge is to avoid being the individual who gets stuck
with such a bill, or at least to avoid paying the price for a
well-maintained car while receiving one which actually needs a lot of
costly work. This is where the pre-purchase inspection comes in, which is
probably the least expensive form of insurance you can buy to help make
that pre-owned Porsche turn out to be an enjoyable experience.

Experienced buyers of used cars rarely purchase a car without educating
themselves regarding the choice of models and their respective advantages
and disadvantages, their strengths and their weaknesses. The 2.7 911's
built from 1974 to 1977, which at one time had a bad reputation for engine
reliability problems, are now seen to be cars that were really not all that
bad, particularly when priced realistically. Many prospective Porsche
owners are now giving them a second look. In this case, it would be wise to
familiarize oneself with the individual model year differences and with the
specific problem areas. In case of the engine, if it has been replaced with
a 3.0 or 3.2 liter engine, then it will not be an issue, nor if it has been
recently overhauled by a repair facility known for quality and that
specializes in the proper "fixes" for this series of engine.

The experienced buyer will establish a database of his own out of the cars
that he personally inspects. It is not at all unusual for a buyer to look
at 12-15 cars in a twelve-month period prior to making the final decision
as to which car to purchase. Of this number, only two or three may be taken
to a professional for a pre-purchase inspection. In order to eliminate the
remainder, it is helpful for the prospective buyer to become as informed as
possible regarding the model he intends to purchase. This can be
accomplished in a number of ways. Contacting the local region of the
Porsche Club of America is one way. Requesting back issues of PML that
feature the model under consideration is another. Obtaining Paul Frere's
book, The 911 Story or Pete Zimmerman's The Used 911 Story would also be
helpful.

In order to establish a baseline for comparison, it is also vital to be
able to spend some time driving a known good example of the desired model.
This is where networking with the local PCA region can prove valuable; it
is not unusual to find at least one member who has that particular model
and who will consent to letting someone else drive it, providing that they
can demonstrate a certain level of driving care. This individual may also
be able to provide a wealth of information regarding the car, so don't
hesitate to make notes as you discuss their car with them.

When it comes time to start looking at cars, it is not at all unusual to
want to try to learn as much as possible about the car over the phone,
especially if the car is some distance away. Although there is no
substitute for personally inspecting the car, a conversation with the
seller may well reveal sufficient information about the car and/or the
seller to eliminate a particular car from consideration. Although you are
buying the car and not the seller, the manner in which the seller answers
your questions can be revealing of their attitudes toward the car and
indicative of the care it has received. For example, if they don't recall
when the last service was, this may indicate that the car has been
under-maintained. A seller who can cite when the car was serviced but who
admits to certain specific problems with the car may well be considered to
be more honest than one who says that everything is perfect.

Once the decision to view the car is made, it is important to take the time
to visually inspect the car and make notes on it before driving it. Some
buyers even develop their own form (see fig. 1) which lists the important
areas to be inspected, such as paint and body condition, interior, wheels,
tires, engine leakage and appearance.

If the cosmetic items are up to the buyer's standard, the decision can be
made to proceed with a road test. The road test should start with the
prospective buyer riding as a passenger with the seller. This will give the
buyer the opportunity to form impressions of the car without having to be
concerned with driving and also a chance to observe how the seller handles
the car. For example, does he leave the car in gear and hold the clutch
down at a stoplight, or does he take the car out of gear and let the
clutch out, a procedure that can help to greatly extend the life of the
clutch.

When the buyer changes places with the seller in order to drive the car,
the engine should be shut down. With the key on but prior to starting the
engine, the buyer should note if all of the warning lights are operating.
When starting the engine, he should watch in the rear view mirror for any
smoking and note both the color and the length of time that the engine
smokes, as certain models of Porsche do smoke normally on start-up. The
engine should idle smoothly.

Prior to engaging first gear and moving away, at least two items should be
checked: 1) the presence of a hard and high brake pedal should be confirmed
and the clutch adjustment should be checked. With the transmission in
neutral, the clutch pedal should be held down for a five-count and then
reverse gear should be engaged. Since reverse is not synchronized, any
grinding at this point would be cause for concern that the clutch may be
dragging, a condition which may not be noticeable in the synchronized
forward gears but which can contribute to transmission wear.

When actually driving the car, it is recommended to first drive the car
normally at a reasonable speed before attempting any full-throttle runs.
This allows the driver to obtain as much feedback from the car as possible,
since in maximum effort driving, the driver is not as relaxed. With first
gear selected, clutch engagement should be smooth and the car should
accelerate without any roughness or hesitation. Gear changes should be
smooth and there should be no grinding or abnormal noises from the
transmission and no slippage or chattering from the clutch, which can
indicate a worn clutch assembly. When making a full-throttle acceleration
run, it is advisable to look in the rear view mirror occasionally in order
to check for smoking on acceleration and deceleration.

With both hands lifted just slightly from the wheel, the car should track
straight ahead on a roadway that is not crowned; the steering wheel spokes
should be centered. There should be no friction in the steering wheel and
it should be possible to lightly turn the wheel and have it snap back.
Excessive friction can indicate a worn steering rack.

Braking should result in the car stopping straight ahead. There should be
no abnormal noises under braking and none of the brake system warning
lights should illuminate. If the car is equipped with air conditioning, it
should be turned on to verify normal operation. When parking the car,
verify proper operation of the handbrake; make any notes regarding your
impressions of the car.

Next: The professional pre-purchase inspection.
Pre-Purchase Checklist

Year: ______________ Model: __________________________ Engine:
____________________
Transmission: ________________________________ Limited Slip:
_______________________
Original engine & transmission: _________________ Kardex:
___________________________
Seller: _______________________________________Phone:
____________________________
Address: _____________________________________City:
______________________________

Price: ________________________________________

I. Body:

Rust: Body exterior:
_______________________________________________________________
Underbody:
_________________________________________________________________
Battery box area:
_____________________________________________________________
Body damage:
___________________________________________________________________
Paint: Color:
_____________________________________________________________________
Condition:
__________________________________________________________________
Original:
____________________________________________________________________
Repaint:
____________________________________________________________________
Glass: Condition:
_________________________________________________________________
Lights: Condition of Lenses:
_________________________________________________________
Interior: Color:
____________________________________________________________________
Condition:
________________________________________________________________
Seats:
___________________________________________________________________
Seat belts:
_______________________________________________________________
Power windows:
___________________________________________________________
Power door locks:
__________________________________________________________
Sound system:
____________________________________________________________
Rear view mirrors: Condition:
________________________________________________________
Operation:
__________________________________________________________________

II. Wheels: Type:
_________________________________________________________________
Size:
______________________________________________________________________
Condition:
__________________________________________________________________
III. Tires: Make:
__________________________________________________________________
Size:
______________________________________________________________________
Condition:
__________________________________________________________________
IV. Engine: Oil leaks:
______________________________________________________________
Appearance:
________________________________________________________________
VI. Road Test: Warning lights:
______________________________________________________
Brake Pedal:
________________________________________________________________
Clutch adjustment:
___________________________________________________________
Idle:
_______________________________________________________________________
Acceleration:
________________________________________________________________
Smoking:
___________________________________________________________________
Transmission:
_______________________________________________________________
Clutch operation:
_____________________________________________________________
Wheel alignment & steering:
____________________________________________________
Steering wheel centering & free play:
_____________________________________________
Service brake operation:
_______________________________________________________
Abnormal noises:
____________________________________________________________
Air conditioning operation:
_____________________________________________________
Handbrake operation:
_________________________________________________________
VI. Comments:
__________________________________________________________________
Figure 1. Sample pre-purchase checklist.



The Pre-Purchase Inspection, Part II
The Professional Road Test

A pre-purchase inspection of a particular automobile is most valuable when
performed by a technician with a solid basis of experience in that model.
This is especially true with Porsche automobiles, as most general repair
facilities will not have seen enough of these vehicles to have built up the
necessary base of experience. Too, and as a generalization with some
notable exceptions, most Porsche dealer service departments do not have
technicians who are familiar with cars that are more than ten, or at the
most, fifteen years old due to turnover of technicians, the fact that the
Porsche organization provides technical training for current, and not past,
models, and the perception on the part of some dealer principals that this
market is simply not worth the trouble. For Porsche models more than ten
years old, an independent Porsche specialty shop is usually the best bet
for the inspection, although here, too, the prospective buyer must exercise
caution. Conversely, for Porsches newer than ten years old a franchised
dealer may well be the best choice, since an independent shop may not have
either the experience or the equipment required to service these cars.
The prospective buyer should speak with both franchised and
independent repair facilities prior to making the decision as to where to
have a pre-purchase inspection performed. This can be easily accomplished
by telephone providing that the facility has someone who is familiar with
both the model of car and the inspection requirements who is available to
speak on the phone, something that is not always convenient or permitted at
a dealership.
In that first conversation, the prospective buyer should explain
what he needs performed and on what year and model of car. Both the cost
and scope of the inspection should be described by the representative of
the facility. The buyer may ask to see a copy of the inspection checklist
that is used by the facility. Any additional information, especially tips
that are volunteered, should be considered by the prospective buyer in
making his decision, although it is wise to consider these tips and
possibly even to verify them by reference to other recognized sources, such
as PML or the buyer's own personal database. Sometimes a representative of
a repair facility may be aware of a customer who has the correct model
available for sale. If the sale is to be handled through the facility,
however, the buyer would want to consider having a different facility
perform the inspection, unless the car is certified or has a proper
warranty.
Once the decision regarding a facility has been made, an
appointment for the inspection should be obtained and the car taken to the
facility. The car should have at least one-fourth of a tank of fuel to
permit sufficient road testing. In order to properly accomplish the
inspection, the car should be available for a minimum of four hours to
allow time for the inspection itself, the paperwork, to fit the car into
the facility's workflow, and to discuss any discrepancies found during the
inspection.
It is preferable for the seller to not be present during the
inspection and especially during the discussion of discrepancies, as this
may lead to a negative reaction on their part, with the seller and the
representative of the facility possibly trading insults. Although the buyer
is free to share the results of the inspection with the seller, repair
facilities feel that their relationship is with the prospective buyer, and
would prefer to not be put in the middle of buyer and seller. Because of
this possibility, some repair facilities do not perform pre-purchase
inspections as a matter of policy.
Once the repair order is completed, the car will be assigned to a
technician, who should be journeyman level with special training and
experience for the specific model at hand. This technician should use an
inspection checklist with all of the major and minor items on it that will
be checked during the inspection, a checklist that has been developed by
him, the repair facility, or the manufacturer itself. The checklist may
be the same one developed for use on a major maintenance service, such as
the 30,000-mile service, with additional checks for accident and cosmetic
damage as well as for corrosion.
The inspection will begin with the technician mentally reviewing
the problem areas for this type of car. A road test of the vehicle
performed by the technician will be the next step, although as he
approaches the vehicle, the technician will "walk around" the vehicle and
note any external items that would be cause for concern. As he sits in the
vehicle, the tech will notice the condition of the interior: is it clean,
well kept, and free from excessive wear and tear. Although it is difficult
to generalize, a car that shows obvious signs of cosmetic care may also
have been well cared for mechanically. Some buyers have even been known to
turn the radio on to see to what stations the presets are on, with the
theory being that classical musical listeners are easier on their car than
are those who choose heavy metal. Others prefer cars that have not been
smoked in for similar reasons. It is doubtful if the technician would go so
far as to check the radio and the ashtray, and one hopes he would look for
more tangible indicators of the car's condition.
As with the buyer, the tech will check that all of the warning
lights are operating. Some cars with low oil pressure have been found with
the oil pressure warning light disconnected because it was flickering when
the engine idled. Although all 911's have very low oil pressure at idle,
the warning light should still work with the engine off, as should the
alternator warning light. On some Porsche models, the alternator warning
light not working can signal an electrical fault in the alternator.
Satisfied that the lights are working, the tech will next press on
the brake pedal to insure hydraulic pressure in the brake system. On cars
equipped with power brakes, he will maintain that pressure while starting
the engine. If the pedal gradually moves down or becomes "softer" as the
engine starts, this will verify operation of the brake power booster.
Once the engine is started, the tech will spend a minute or two
listening to the engine, checking the engine gauges, and allowing the
engine oil to circulate. He will also check clutch operation and
adjustment. In all manual transmission-equipped Porsches and 911's built
prior to 1987, the clutch should be held in for five seconds and then
reverse gear selected. Any grinding then would be cause for concern that
there is a clutch or transmission problem. The forward gears cannot be used
for this test since they are synchronized and will not grind, although they
will be more difficult to engage if the clutch is dragging, as would be the
case were it out of adjustment or in need of replacement. 911's built from
the 1987 model year are equipped with the G-50 transaxle, which employs a
synchronized reverse gear, so the grinding test is not possible, although
it is recommended to check for higher than normal shifting effort,
something which could best be done by someone who had driven a number of
these cars.
The clutch should be engaged and the car reversed at least one
hundred feet in order to check for abnormal noises in reverse gear. Then
the car should be driven away normally or, if anything, at a slower than
normal speed. The tech should be experienced enough as a driver (competition
experience is helpful) to be able to completely relax in the car so that
his senses are all heightened and thus more alert to abnormal sounds and
other sensory inputs.
An owner of a 1987 911 learned the value of this kind of experience
recently when he took his car in for an oil change to a repair facility
operated by a technician with a racing background. Twice in the previous
few months the owner had felt a slight roughness in the accelerator pedal
when lifting off the throttle, but because it had been so intermittent he
didn't mention it to the technician. The tech, however, noted it during his
routine test drive and decided to pursue the problem. When the owner picked
the car up the technician informed him that a broken cruise control fitting
had been threatening to jam the throttle wide open, and that the technician
had been able to repair it. A less experienced, less sensitive tech would
probably have not even felt the problem, which was one with the potential
to cause a considerable amount of damage.
Proceeding with the road test, the tech will check the operation of
all of the forward gears while noting the clutch action, being especially
alert for chattering (vibration, usually most noticeable when starting from
rest) or slipping. A conventionally used test for clutch slippage,
accelerating in first and then shifting directly into the highest gear to
see if the clutch slips, is not recommended, especially for 911 models.
Porsche clutches are sized to be the best compromise between weight and
clamping pressure for road- and not drag-racing, and generally will not
tolerate this kind of abuse.
Although second gear will usually be the first to show signs of
synchronizer failure (grinding), it is also necessary to select first gear
while rolling at five mph to ensure that this gear's synchronizer or
sliding sleeve has not been damaged, either of which will be costly to
repair. All of the gears should be quiet in operation as should be the
differential gears, which, if worn, may produce noise beginning at 30 mph
and increasing with tire rpm. If the clutch release bearing has failed, it
will produce noise with the clutch pushed all the way down. A clunking
noise that occurs whenever the clutch is let out in a 924/944/968 series
car would be considered normal unless it is accompanied by excessive
driveline play when accelerating or decelerating, which may be a sign of a
failed rubber clutch disc or a worn transaxle.
Steering should be checked for ease of effort, centering of the
wheel, and for any tendency to pull to one side or the other. To check for
this last item, the wheel should be lightly held between the fingers or the
car even allowed to run without any hand contact on the wheel. It should
also be noted if there is any steering wheel shake, vibration, or shimmy.
Braking should occur without any pulling or any abnormal noise or
vibration, which may indicate a warped brake rotor. The brake pedal should
remain firm when pressure is applied, indicating a good brake master
cylinder and no hydraulic leaks.
During this time, the tech will be aware of not only the
transmission, clutch and brake operation, but of the engine sound and
performance as well. Are all of the sounds coming from the engine normal?
Is there any roughness, hesitation or indication that the engine is not
performing properly? Is there any sign of smoke in the rear view mirrors?
The tech will have noted in his walk-around if there was any sign of blown
oil on the rear of the car, which can emanate from either engine oil leaks
or from the exhaust of an engine with worn rings or valve guides.
Assuming that all of these tests have not revealed any major
mechanical problems, the tech will proceed with a full throttle
acceleration run, at least through the first two or three gears, depending
upon the car's performance potential. Depending upon the age and condition
of the car, the engine will be taken very close to the redline. Experienced
Porsche techs will use caution, however, particularly with a type 356 or
912, where it is known that crankshafts can and have broken. An early 911
can also be more vulnerable to high rpm damage than, say, a 1978 or newer
car, so some techs advocate a cushion of ten per cent (or more) below the
redline. It simply is not necessary to test the rev limiter, and, on some
models, it may well have been removed.
As a final test, the tech will operate the heating and ventilating
system through its range, particularly if the car is equipped with air
conditioning. He will also check the sunroof, power window and power mirror
and lock operation, as well as the operation of the power seats.
Notes regarding any problem areas will be made and the car will be
returned to the repair facility for the rest of the inspection. The return
trip will be made as was the outbound one: at reduced speed so as to more
effectively note any problems which may have cropped up during the road
test or because the car is now fully at operating temp. These problems may
include engine, transmission, or clutch performance, smoking, or abnormal
noises.


Part III - The Professional Mechanical Inspection

After completion of the road test portion of his inspection, the technician
will want to continue with the in-depth, mechanical portion. Prior to
switching the engine off the tech will check for correct operation of the
heating and ventilating controls, including checking that the air
conditioning outlet temperatures are correct for the current ambient
temperature. A 30-degree drop from ambient is considered normal. Although
warning lights will have already been checked, the tech will now verify
correct operation of the exterior lights, wipers, and horn. Prior to
operating the wipers, he will spray windshield solvent on the
windshield (from a bottle and not the car's own washer system) so as not to
damage a dry glass. The handbrake should be checked for correct extension
when applied. More than five to seven clicks, depending upon the model, may
indicate the need for adjustment or replacement of the emergency brake
linings.

Operation and condition of the windows whether power or manual, the rear
view mirrors, and the door handles and locks will all be checked, as will
be the seats, seat belts, sun visors, and sun visor retaining clips. Door
hinges and door check mechanisms will be inspected, and the hood and trunk
release mechanisms will be exercised and their correct operation verified.
The spare tire should be removed and both the front and rear internal
structure of the car inspected for the presence of repaired accident
damage. The condition of the spare as well as the presence of a tire air
compressor and factory tool kit should also be noted. The battery area
should be inspected for corrosion, particularly 914's and all 356, 911 and
912 models, especially those where a vented battery has been installed
without the vent hose being installed and/or connected. The level and
state of charge of battery electrolyte should be checked, as should the
output of the alternator under load.

While in the trunk compartment of models so equipped (356, 911, 912, 914),
brake fluid level and condition should be checked, as should any signs of
leakage, particularly on the brake booster. Dirty brake fluid may be taken
as a sign that the vehicle has been under-maintained, and test kits are
available to chemically determine if there is moisture present in the brake
fluid which can cause internal damage to brake hydraulic components.

Although the road test will have given the tech an idea of the condition of
the suspension components, a so-called bounce test of the shock absorbers
will be performed prior to placing the vehicle on a hoist. The bumper or a
fender (not recommended on the aluminum-fendered 928 series) is depressed
with the hands and the vehicle is allowed to return to its normal height,
with the oscillation being dampened out in no more than one or one-and-one
half cycles, and the freedom of movement of the suspension not being
interfered with by a "frozen" shock. On many Porsche models, the bounce
test may not be conclusive, except to reveal a frozen shock, so the road
test and later visual inspection for signs of leakage become more critical
in locating a bad shock. In some cases, it is not unusual for original
equipment Porsche shocks to last 100,000 miles, so mileage since the shock
was last changed is a consideration as well.

When the car is placed on a hoist, wheel bearing play at all four wheels
should be checked. The wheels and tires should be inspected for condition
and tread depth, which should be noted on the inspection report. Tire wear
patterns should be checked for signs of imbalance, alignment, or suspension
problems. All four wheels should then be removed. The percentage of brake
lining remaining should be noted, as should the condition and thickness of
the brake rotors. Uneven pad wear on the same axle may indicate a frozen,
inoperative, or incorrectly assembled brake caliper. On models equipped
with a brake proportioning valve (914, 928) the valve should be inspected
for signs of leakage. Brake hydraulic hoses and metal lines should be
inspected for condition along with any vacuum hoses connected to the brake
booster. "Stainless steel" type brake hoses should be noted for replacement
unless the date of installation is known, since it is not possible to
visually inspect this type of hose. For this reason, many techs recommend
against their use on anything but cars that are driven exclusively on the
track and where the lines are replaced on a regular basis.

Any protective undertrays should be removed and steering rack leakage or
boot deterioration should be noted, as should ball joint or, -- on the 356,
king and link pin, -- wear. Broken ball joint or tie-rod end dust boots
should be noted, as should any signs of wear or looseness in the suspension
or steering linkage. Stabilizer bar bushings and mounts should be
inspected., particularly the rear stabilizer bar mounts on the 911 series,
which are prone to cracking.

The floor pan itself should be carefully inspected for signs of corrosion,
accident damage, or repairs. Many buyers, for example, would prefer not to
acquire a car and then discover that it had been "sectioned", or made out
of two or even three other cars whose pans have been welded together. While
pan replacement is not unusual, particularly on the older models that were
built prior to the introduction of corrosion-resistant steel in 1975, the
quality of the repair can be a major factor in determining resale value.

The fuel tank, pump, and hoses should be checked for condition and any
signs of leakage. The tank should be inspected for any damage such as might
occur if something had been run over. The exhaust system should likewise be
checked for any signs of damage, leakage, or corrosion. Heat shields,
mufflers, manifolds, heat exchangers, pipes, hoses and all other exhaust
system components should be inspected. The absence of any required emission
control equipment should be noted, as should the condition of exhaust
clamps, brackets, and hangers. Heater valves, hoses, and cables should also
be checked.

The transmission fluid level should be checked, as should the transmission
itself for any signs of leakage. Failed constant velocity joint boots and
shift rod boots should be noted. The underside of the engine should be
checked for any signs of fluid leakage and the type of fluid noted. Engine
and transmission rubber mounts should be inspected for sagging or cracking.
944 and 924S series engine mounts should be checked for the proper height
dimension to insure that they have not failed internally. The oil pan and
crankcase should be checked for any signs of accident damage.

Engine oil level and appearance should be checked, although with modern
detergent oils it is difficult to visually gauge condition since the oil
becomes "dirty" very quickly; this only indicates that the oil is doing its
job by suspending contaminants rather than allowing them to remain in the
lubricating system. The engine compartment should be inspected for any
signs of fuel, oil, or coolant leakage, and for any deteriorated or missing
rubber parts, including the engine compartment seal which runs around the
perimeter of the compartment in air-cooled models. If this seal has been
omitted, engine overheating and damage can occur. If the car is
liquid-cooled, coolant level and condition should be checked. Using a
hydrometer for the purpose, it is possible to tell to what temperature the
coolant will offer freezing protection. A high number or the presence of
contamination may indicate that the coolant is in need of changing. Severe
contamination, commonly referred to as sludge or mud, in a 944 may indicate
a failed oil-water intercooler seal.

The oil reservoir in air-cooled 911 models should be inspected for
condition and signs of leakage, particularly around the oil level sending
unit and on all of the oil lines leading to the reservoir. On models
without self-adjusting valves, the valve covers may be inspected for any
indication that they have been removed in the recent past, and for signs of
leakage. If the valve covers do not appear to have been off in quite some
time, this, too, may be taken as a sign that the car's maintenance has been
neglected. Both air- and liquid-cooled models of Porsches have numerous
places from which oil can leak, so in the case of an engine which is
covered with oil it is wise to clean the engine and run it for a period of
time prior to verifying the location of any leaks.

The wheels should now be reinstalled in their original positions and
properly torqued, the undertrays reinstalled, and the car lowered to the
ground. The engine air filter element should be removed and inspected, as
this will provide an indication of when the car was last serviced. One
spark plug or a distributor cap may be removed for another indication. Of
course, if the client has requested a compression test, all of the spark
plugs will be removed.

The necessity for a compression test during a pre-purchase inspection is a
subject on which experts may rightfully disagree. Because additional
expense over that for the inspection is involved, some buyers like to
reserve it only for cars which have passed their other tests, or if there
is a question generated by sluggish performance, a rough idle, or uneven
cranking when the engine is being motored by the starter. When a weak
cylinder comes up, the starter will noticeably speed up, except in the case
of a 944 that has sheared a timing belt, where the starter turns faster on
every cylinder. Even in that case, the difference in sound is noticeable to
an experienced tech, although here the problem is more obvious since the
engine also won't run. A less expensive alternative to the dynamic
compression test, where a gauge is used to actually measure the compression
in each cylinder, is a relative compression test which uses an engine
analyzer to electronically establish relative compression values for the
cylinders or which shorts out one cylinder at a time in what is known as a
cylinder balance test and measures the rpm lost for each cylinder. What
these tests will not reveal, however, is an engine in which all of the
cylinders are worn equally and which have low compression across the board.

On models equipped with a toothed rubber timing belt, a visual inspection
of both the belt and the oil seals behind it is recommended. If the belt
has been recently replaced but the oil seals have not, the life of the belt
will be drastically shortened, possibly even leading to belt failure
significantly before the normally expected service interval. Any cracking
or deterioration anywhere on the belt is cause for replacement, as would be
a belt that has not been operating under the proper tension. While
checking belts, the engine accessory drive belts should also be inspected,
as should the water and power steering pumps for any signs of leakage. In
some models, it is not possible to see the water pump without significant
disassembly, so, as with the compression test, the cost will have to be
weighed along with other factors.

Overall engine compartment cleanliness should be noted, with the theory
being that a clean engine may be taken as a sign that the previous owner
and his repair facility have taken some pride in the car. Unfortunately,
this can also be a sign of an unscrupulous individual or business,
especially if the engine has been sprayed with clear lacquer to give it a
"like new" appearance, although even here appearances can be deceiving and
the entire picture must be taken into consideration, including, but not
limited to, the results of the inspection we have now completed.

When the inspection has been completed, the buyer should expect to see a
written report of any mechanical discrepancies that were noted during the
course of the inspection. The repair facility should also be able to
provide estimated costs of repair for these items along with additional
information on both the vehicle's overall condition and on how it compares
to other similar vehicles with which they are familiar. The Porsche
specialist can become, especially to the first-time Porsche buyer, the
single most important source of information that is available.

Potential buyers need to remind themselves to not be discouraged by an
apparently unfavorable inspection report, but to view it as a necessary
part of "doing their homework" prior to making what is a major investment.
All cars have problems, even brand new ones. In the case of used vehicles,
some will definitely have fewer problems than others, and the idea is
always to purchase the best vehicle (in overall condition) that your budget
will allow, since repair costs, unlike the cost of the vehicle, are always
paid in current dollars and are not depreciated. Many buyers use the
inspection report as a negotiating tool to successfully effect a reduction
in the vehicle's price or, in some cases, to aide in making the decision to
reject a particular vehicle as not being suitable for their needs. Buyers
who proceed with a purchase of an inspected vehicle do so with a far
greater knowledge of what they have and are not subject to nearly so many
"surprises" as is the individual who purchases a car at the swap meet on
Sunday only to be told by his technician on Monday that the cost of the
needed repairs exceeds the cost of the vehicle, not to mention what it will
be worth after it is repaired.

On the other hand, if the needed repairs are known, in most cases they can
be easily prioritized so that the costs can be spread out over a year or
more, during which time the vehicle can still be driven and enjoyed while
it is returned to optimum condition. This way, instead of taking away from
the excitement of obtaining a new toy, the inspection report can be seen
more as an agenda for returning one example of driving in its finest form
to, well, its finest form. And, as is the case with the older Porsche
models, many repairs can even be performed by the owner, thus resulting in
additional savings.

gonzilla

Here's Tony Callas' list for "service issues" on the 993. Good luck!

pirahna

Budget and Porsche do not go well together, if a PPI seems expensive this may not be the car for you.

C4S993

My new-to-me PPI 993 TT was tad under $200 at Autohaus in Pa. It was a visual only PPI (passed). Their full blown PPI with leak down would be $900, which I declined. Sale price was $55k @73k miles (I decided not to screw around and see another 993TT leave for Germany). If it does not blow oil/smoke around 4k rpm, idles sweet, no loose tie rods, no shot shocks, feel the rotor(s) lips, check pad width (visually), oh; most important bring a OBD II Auto Diagnostic tester and make certain that all sensors are actually "ready". If not, walk away as fast as you can. Look for wet floor sound deadening dampness. Check for oil leaks on plastic valve covers, and also bottom of fins near pistons. Look for down+dirty welding seams in front and rear fender areas.

e9stibi

At 100 k Miles, a top end rebuild and clutch are on the horizon and should not ruin you. There is a reason why high-milage cars cost less.

nine9six

Excellent comments by Mark and Pirhana

Mark Harris

Good information being shared in this thread. I continue to learn about these cars by visiting here regularly despite owning several over the years and wrenching on them as much as my courage and local supporters will permit.

Nevertheless, I took my indy with me to NJ last year on the 2S purchase and we put it up on a Rennlisters rack on a Friday night to do a complete PPI including leakdown and compression. Although the indy is a close friend he was not emotionally attached to the car and would have had no issue advising me to walk. Best $500 plus expenses I ever spent.

I agree that if the cost of a PPI is not in the budget neither should be the purchase of a 993. If you have a good gut check like C4S993 did on his that's cool, but thats not what I interpreted from your PPI budget statement.

Wolfk

Still nobody knows what the compression pressure should be, that is what he asked.
The dude knows cars, so he says, why should he pay someone to tell him the brake pads are worn, or that the headlight lenses are pitted?
There is nothing that mysterious about a 993 that a decent car guy can not find out about on his own. He is considering a 95, so that makes it even easier.

Knight

Use this as a reference, obviously omit sections related to the turbos.

Good luck!

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...imate-ppi.html

Mark in Baltimore

Do you really think that any, ol' mechanic will know about the following?

-door check strap
-harness recall
-window squeaks

This is only naming three areas of note. The OP, if he wants to do his own "PPI", should search the archives for the other issues.

There's a reason why I only do RennFaxes on 993's and 3.2 Carreras. Why? Because I don't know anything about the nuances of the other Porsche models.

Dryfly57

I feel sorry for this "MKovac" if he pulls the trigger on a subscription.
Quad hit the nail on the head with this one!!

Magdaddy

that is simply not universally true.

My 4S will hit 6 figures this summer, and uses less than 1/2qt oil per 1K miles. That usage has been steady since I bought the car at 63K three years ago. According to my records, the orig clutch was changed around 25K with another Dual Mass unit. All I deduce by that was...well, it was a NYC car at that point, so LOTS of stop and go traffic...and probably an owner who rode the clutch.

Prices vary widely across the country for a top end/clutch/while your in there job. That bill could easily be $10K, and while it shouldn't "ruin" anyone on here, that's still alot of money. Easily 1/3-1/4 of the price of the car to begin with.

As someone who got lucky, and found a nice driver at a reasonable price...my advice is.
*get air cooled Pcar experienced eyes on it
*you know the previous owner and it's history with him, is that a + or -
*current mechanic's opinion, although possibly biased-will he also be your mechanic for any non DIY stuff? If yes, then he has some skin in the game too.
*sometimes it just feels right, nothing scientific, just gut here

While the back and forth on this thread hasn't been classic rl 993 forum stuff...THIS IS the place for info, encouragement, and praise...for all things 993

and-pony up the membership $$, best Porsche money you'll ever spend.

Good Luck

Dukerdog

I had a complete PPI with compression test and leakdown before purchasing my 96 993. Overall it came through with flying colors but did discover a door check strap problem (which the seller took care of). Get the PPI.