Immobilizer sucks...
#17
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...get rid of the Immobilizer and chip the car for maximum performance on 91 or 93 octane..can't get 93 in Cali. You need to extract your ECU and send it to Steve. As I recall, the cost was around $1,000....or do what Bill Verburg did.
#19
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I talked to Steve a couple years ago....memory is foggy but I recall Steve said it was quite a project .... re-wiring etc...not a simple flash job like the OBDII.
I would eliminate the immob on my OBDI 95 if I could....anyone?
Gordo
#21
RL Community Team
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4(?) years ago had infrequent difficulty getting the fob to lock/unlock doors.
Became more frequent over the next year or so.
Sometimes one of the parking lights would stay on after locking the car.
At times it took several tries fobing the ignition to engage the starter.
(Fresh fob batteries, etc).
Dealer replaced ignition switch, which helped temporarily.
Back to dealer; finally determined (best guess) that the ignition keyway was so worn that it was sending some kind of transient signal to the immob module and caused it to fail.
New module, new ignition keyway from factory (which required replacement of integral steering wheel lock).
Gordo
Became more frequent over the next year or so.
Sometimes one of the parking lights would stay on after locking the car.
At times it took several tries fobing the ignition to engage the starter.
(Fresh fob batteries, etc).
Dealer replaced ignition switch, which helped temporarily.
Back to dealer; finally determined (best guess) that the ignition keyway was so worn that it was sending some kind of transient signal to the immob module and caused it to fail.
New module, new ignition keyway from factory (which required replacement of integral steering wheel lock).
Gordo
How did you figure out the module was bad?
Andy
Andy
#22
Drifting
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Ouch - an expensive way to fix a lock keyway. Any competent automotive locksmith could have fixed the ignition key problem for <$100. It could have simply been dried lubricant that needed cleaning as may have this come up wit the lock bolt sticking - Fix is a little electric motor cleaner.
The immobilizer light in the cluster would never begin flashing when you are supposed to input the code, and would thus not accept a code. It worked 100% perfectly as soon as the new immobilizer module was installed.
#24
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Some on the board still say the OBDI can be flashed to eliminate the immob.
I talked to Steve a couple years ago....memory is foggy but I recall Steve said it was quite a project .... re-wiring etc...not a simple flash job like the OBDII.
I would eliminate the immob on my OBDI 95 if I could....anyone?
Gordo
I talked to Steve a couple years ago....memory is foggy but I recall Steve said it was quite a project .... re-wiring etc...not a simple flash job like the OBDII.
I would eliminate the immob on my OBDI 95 if I could....anyone?
Gordo
US cars from MY96 up and all turbos have an OBD@ compliant system, these use 88pin harnesses and the chips are not user or at least easily swapable. The MY96 can't even be re flashed, the MY97 & 98 can be unsoldered and reflashed by a reputable shop like Steve Weiner's
In addition to the chip or reflash the R61 relay must be bypasssed, use a Porsche part or just make your own.
#25
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The immobilizer light in the cluster would never begin flashing when you are supposed to input the code, and would thus not accept a code. It worked 100% perfectly as soon as the new immobilizer module was installed.
BTW, I am currently wrestling with the same issues in trying to program additional fobs to my immobilizer. I presently have one working fob, and desire at least a couple of functioning back-ups.
My issue is that I am not receiving the flashing immobilizer light after keying in the code, which should signify the correct code has been successfully entered and the immobilizer is awaiting depression of the key fobs to be programmed.
As a footnote, while keying in the code, I am noticing double blinking LED's on the door top lights, which may signify an alarm problem?
*Note that these double blinking LED's are AFTER a sucessful arming/priming/self testing of the alarm system as signified by the door top LEDS quick flashing that slow to a single flash every 2 seconds.
I'm at my wits end...and I'm only looking to program back-up remotes.
Last edited by nine9six; 05-16-2013 at 02:38 PM.