hoggel

Thank you Gordo, Tim.

Martin S.

...get rid of the Immobilizer and chip the car for maximum performance on 91 or 93 octane..can't get 93 in Cali. You need to extract your ECU and send it to Steve. As I recall, the cost was around $1,000....or do what Bill Verburg did.

TheBen

+1 that's what I did too.

993/907

Some on the board still say the OBDI can be flashed to eliminate the immob.

I talked to Steve a couple years ago....memory is foggy but I recall Steve said it was quite a project .... re-wiring etc...not a simple flash job like the OBDII.

I would eliminate the immob on my OBDI 95 if I could....anyone?

Gordo

TMc993

So....The OP is worried because there is a possibility that sometime in the future, the immolizer will go "kablooey?" Jeez, I wish my life was that simple.

pp000830

Ouch - an expensive way to fix a lock keyway. Any competent automotive locksmith could have fixed the ignition key problem for <$100. It could have simply been dried lubricant that needed cleaning as may have this come up wit the lock bolt sticking - Fix is a little electric motor cleaner.
How did you figure out the module was bad?
Andy
Andy

XR4Tim

Believe me that was tried first.
The immobilizer light in the cluster would never begin flashing when you are supposed to input the code, and would thus not accept a code. It worked 100% perfectly as soon as the new immobilizer module was installed.

MartinC2S

I'm afraid to ask but how much did the new immobilizer module cost?

Bill Verburg

The US '95 and all RoW '94-98 are OBD1 and use a 55pin harness, the DME has a chip that us user swap-able(if you are careful) all these cars need to eliminate the immobilizer is a chip that is not programmed for it, these chips are readily available from a # of sources for a very reasonable price, Steve Wong @ '911 Chips" is my favorite.

US cars from MY96 up and all turbos have an OBD@ compliant system, these use 88pin harnesses and the chips are not user or at least easily swapable. The MY96 can't even be re flashed, the MY97 & 98 can be unsoldered and reflashed by a reputable shop like Steve Weiner's

In addition to the chip or reflash the R61 relay must be bypasssed, use a Porsche part or just make your own.

nine9six

Oh PLEEZE! That $1000 figure is only part of the equation. If you dont have a 97 or later car, factor in $1500-$2000 for the later model ECU (if you can find one).

As I understand the instructions from the workshop manual, the immobilizer light does not start flashing UNTIL after the correct code has been successfully "keyed" into the immobilizer (key on-off sequencing)

BTW, I am currently wrestling with the same issues in trying to program additional fobs to my immobilizer. I presently have one working fob, and desire at least a couple of functioning back-ups.

My issue is that I am not receiving the flashing immobilizer light after keying in the code, which should signify the correct code has been successfully entered and the immobilizer is awaiting depression of the key fobs to be programmed.

As a footnote, while keying in the code, I am noticing double blinking LED's on the door top lights, which may signify an alarm problem?
*Note that these double blinking LED's are AFTER a sucessful arming/priming/self testing of the alarm system as signified by the door top LEDS quick flashing that slow to a single flash every 2 seconds.

I'm at my wits end...and I'm only looking to program back-up remotes.