MartinC2S

Can anyone help me with the torque value for the subframe mount bolt?

Bolt #19 in this picture:

il pirata

If that is the subframe (side part) to body (rubber metal mount) with a M12 x 1.5 thread it is 120NM (88 ftlb.)

MartinC2S

Awesome! Thank you very much!

Damonsfast

what about #25?

bcameron59

#25 is camber control arm to subframe, 85nm

CaptainGSR

I just rebuilt the rear end on my 95. I found that realigning the subframe cage with the body to be a bit of a guessing game.
In the end my alignment guy told me that i was pretty much bang on, but I honestly don't know how I managed to get it right.
Once you loosen all 4 main bolts, the entire cage can move about 1/8" in all directions. Does anyone have a trick or any advice?
Too late for me, but I guess it could help the next guy...

Mike J

I think its designed with those slots to allow for some movement to accommodate manufacturing errors. I usually try to center the cage as best as possible to the four mounting studs and then tighten. The alignment can accommodate any other minor variations.

Cheers,

Mike

uberlawyer

I have done the same thing and the bolts are 12 mm whereas the bushing holes are 16mm. I have written to Rennline (as I installed their sub-farm bushings) asking about the alignment and they were very helpful and mentioned something about alignment pins that would allow you to accurately align the sub-frame.

I haven't been able to figure out what they meant though.

OverBoosted28

As Mike stated, once the subframe is re-mounted, your alignment will bring everything into spec. Doubt there's an alignment spec for the subframe mounting, just get the bolts in, and done!

uberlawyer

One q: if the kinematic toe cannot be set at its optimum setting (which I understand is 4.5 or between 4.5 and 5), who is the culprit? The kinematic toe arm?

Bill Verburg

you do not necessarily want to max the KT 4.5 to 5.0 on the Motorsports gauge @ a low track car height is not going to be a good set up

factory RSR/Cup at their ride height spec was 3.0max but equal on both sides as measured by the gauge. You cannot tell if the l/r are set the same by looking at the eccentrics, they are not calibrated.

The less KT the further forward in the wheel well, the more KT the further back, what you want is a fast rear end, but not faster than you are, so the best setup for you is to raise KT until the rear is just too twitchy for you. If you go to max but equal on the gauge, the car is safe but the rear may be too slow, on the street it doesn't make much difference but on a track it is slower that one that is just a tad slower than you are.

OverBoosted28

I'm at 3.75 on the motorsports gauge, on each side.

uberlawyer

Thanks, Bill - great explanation!

I'm at 4.0 now (equal on both sides). However if one KT maxes out at 4.0 (eccentric is at its end), while the other goes to 5, what should I check?

I understand now that I should not aim for 4.5, but just wondering what is preventing the KT on one side to go to 4.5 as the other KT does.

OverBoosted28

The only way you will be able to avoid the eccentrics from moving (and losing your settings) is to remove them, put in adj arms and either make or buy eccentric locking plates. If you have the stock arms, they have probably reached their max adjustability, depending on how low your car is. You may be stuck without changing to adj links.

il pirata

uberlawyer…what ride height are you at?