SchnellAuto

i have been doing research of valve guide failures.. for the dreded Sai , and Cell issues...

I was wondering is there any oil additive we can put during oil changes to retared the wear of the valve guide for our engines...saving us a top end rebuilt..

i found that a bunch of 3.2 litter guys in europe using liquid moly engine saver..(they also make oil) . as a routine in oil changes.

i guess one of the culprits would be extra heat in the engine compartment. so take out the noise tray..did that...

Is there an american equivalent ?..like back in the day..when dad sweared by STP. in his oil changes...


2cents.

BobbyT

STP? Motor Honey? Snake Oil? Not in my engine.

Do a search on motor oil, but first sit in your most comfortable chair and bring a large

pp000830

Many times the cause of valve guide replacement is the suggestion by a sales incented technician. I am on my 2nd 911 and have never had a valve guide issue. Remember the twelve step program for Porsche: “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”

race911

The "cause" is what's originally installed.

I seriously doubt the Euro guys were putting in additive in the new cars ~30 years ago. I'm not going to speak to what they may/may not be doing currently, as I don't keep up on that part of the industry.

(First 3.2L I did guides on had maybe 40K miles, circa 1987. On the other hand, a 3.2L I've got on the shelf had 180K hard, hard miles on it from an original owner (Hank Watts, author of Secrets of Solo Racing) who drove it about 15 years in the local autocross and time trial scene. So that engine went the distance. RMG (Grigsby) always maintained it, and when the $13K rebuild was done, the ring lands were so good the piston set wasn't even changed out. So go figure.)

Biggest thing on the 3.2L and later cars is that they made it past chain tensioner puking phase. I don't know of ANYONE who measured guides out of a 10-30-50K miler on the 2.0-3.0L cars when half the valves were bent.

I'm not sure what heat you will displace with a 993 engine tray to make a difference. (964 is a whole 'nother deal, and a servicing hassle when you're dealing with cars getting to the oil dripping POS stage.) Basically, if you look at the thermal issues ANY air cooled engine deals with, you'd be surprised they even run.

race911

How would you know where your guides are, as far as service life goes? Sure, oil consumption is the key determining factor. Beyond that?????

I think I can count to zero of any 80K+ mile engine I've had my hands in that hasn't had guide and/or stem taper that puts it at best borderline tolerance. Granted, 90+% of my experience is up-to-3.6L engine cars, and I'm happy to be corrected. But I had two RSA Club Racers I took care of (along with two 3.6L engined torsion bar conversion Time Trial cars) when I was still working on these things through the mid-'90s, and when all four came apart for money shifts/damage, word I got back was guide replacement. The one RSA had maybe 10-12K miles on it at that time.

I guess I just look at this differently because I lived it, and was the "sales incented technician" (owner, actually).

Quadcammer

sorry, thats nonsense.

For everyone one valve guide job that is sold without need, there are probably 10 (or 20 or more) guys driving around in 911s burning 1 quart every 500 miles deluding themselves into thinking that its normal and "part of the charm".

the material was iffy from the factory, some guides were installed better than others at the factory, the heat of the engine, and poor maintenance are the generally accepted causes.

911PERVY

I have never heard of us Europhiles putting in additives in our oil. Sorry..................another massive fail

SchnellAuto

they are were also yaking about porsche A40 oil standard..can someone explain the porsche A40 oil guideline..i guess that for the newer cars?

Lemon

gonzilla

Maybe this will help.
http://sas-origin.onstreammedia.com/.../PC/index.html

And this from this post on the Pelican 911 forum:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post5782185
Just to summarize my observations, Porsche’s prime concern for A40 specification is piston deposits (10 on a 0-10 scale) followed by wear at 7 out of 10 and soot thickening at 6 out of 10. That kind of makes sense why they recommend ?W40 oils rather than more viscous ones.
They are not concerned about aftertreatment compatibility (advanced Euro cats or DPFs) or fuel economy, both at zero on the scale. Just yet.
Interestingly it took ACEA 4 years to move from A3/B4 2004 to A3/B4 2008 to come to similar values with the exception of sludge that ACEA emphasizes much more than A40.
By comparison ACEA A3/B4 from 2004 was mostly below A40 specifications.
Daimler’s 229.5 spec covers similar territory with more emphasis on sludge, wear and fuel economy and less on piston deposits.
Have a look at Porsche’s C30. Wow, all values nearly maxed out plus concerns about fuel economy and cats and DPFs. Nearly carbon copy of VW’s 507.00 which the C30 originated from, I believe.
I don’t have access to latest A40 or C30, but it would make sense to cross reference them both and see if there are any duplicates. Also oils common to A40 and 229.5 would deliver more wear and sludge protection that A40 requires to date.
Not trying to open another Pandora Box such as “Why we hate CJ-4…” just trying to figure out the best oil for daily driven M97 in my case, based on what qualified and competent people have researched in the past.