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how many of you guys removed the immobilizer

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Old 04-17-2013, 10:28 PM
  #46  
1990-964
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Sorry in advance if I missed it but where do we get these different r61 relays to complete the bypass?
Old 04-17-2013, 10:49 PM
  #47  
Lorenfb
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"So why you take it upon yourself to pour over every single word"

It's called; 'Let's not provide mis-information to Rennlist members where
the results may waste their time and money'.

Like:
"just got the relays for my 993 and my buddies...gonna go try them now!"

Hopefully, the mention of a relay mod doesn't get interrupted as the total
solution to an immobilizer removal. But given some of the mis-information,
a few may think such. Actually, a simple jumper wire and not a relay replacement
is all that is needed to not have the starter solenoid function conditioned on
the state on the immobilizer.
Old 04-17-2013, 11:00 PM
  #48  
skl2
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Originally Posted by 1990-964
Sorry in advance if I missed it but where do we get these different r61 relays to complete the bypass?
I got mine from Pelican.
Old 04-17-2013, 11:01 PM
  #49  
skl2
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
"So why you take it upon yourself to pour over every single word"

It's called; 'Let's not provide mis-information to Rennlist members where
the results may waste their time and money'.

Like:
"just got the relays for my 993 and my buddies...gonna go try them now!"

Hopefully, the mention of a relay mod doesn't get interrupted as the total
solution to an immobilizer removal. But given some of the mis-information,
a few may think such. Actually, a simple jumper wire and not a relay replacement
is all that is needed.
I prefer to go with a cheap 20 OEM relay than some jumper wire. It is also well noted in this thread that the relay is not the only thing you need to disable the immobilizer. I dont mind someone debating facts or options for modifications on the car, but you seem to only take issue on this one thing and with a guy that is pretty well versed when it comes to 993s.
Old 04-18-2013, 12:11 PM
  #50  
Lorenfb
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"I prefer to go with a cheap 20 OEM relay than some jumper wire."

Actually, using a relay will have a higher probability of a failure than
a jumper wire. And being a "cheap" relay increases that failure rate
even more, i.e. just ask those that buy the cheap DME relays.
Old 04-19-2013, 09:30 AM
  #51  
skl2
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
"I prefer to go with a cheap 20 OEM relay than some jumper wire."

Actually, using a relay will have a higher probability of a failure than
a jumper wire. And being a "cheap" relay increases that failure rate
even more, i.e. just ask those that buy the cheap DME relays.
Haha ok dude. Ill let ya know when it fails. I have the old relay in the glovebox with my extra DME. I'm good to go.
Old 04-19-2013, 06:36 PM
  #52  
pp000830
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Sounds like fixing stuff that does not need fixin'; “accept the things I should not fix, have courage to fix the things I must and have the wisdom to know the difference”
Andy
Old 04-20-2013, 10:59 AM
  #53  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
"The R61 relay is a relay inside of a relay, the inner relay is for the starter, the outer is for the inner relay, so to eliminate the immobilizer a replacement relay is used that eliminates the outer relay."

1) If one looks at the wiring diagram, one will find that R61 is NOT a "relay inside
of a relay", but a simple single pole relay. The relay is controlled by the
immobilizer & the clutch switch and prevents the #50 starter signal from connecting
to the starter solenoid.

2) "If the DME is reprogrammed in an always unlocked state, it might not need anything from the alarm either."

Wrong. The alarm ECU provides #15 to the DME ECM once the immobilizer
commands it to do so, thus the remote must be used to unlock the car
as a minimum.

3) "When the DME is reprogrammed it's just permanently applying a voltage to unlock the DME."

Not really. The microcode in the DME ECM is 'patched' so the it no longer waits
for the immobilizer to command it to 'run' the engine.

4) "The immobilizer is a different system, w/ the immobilizer when the doors are unlocked a signal is sent from the alarm to the DME that says its ok to start the car, the DME then sends a signal to R61 that says it's ok to engage the starter."

Actually, both clutch switch and the immobilizer (in series) allow the #50 signal from the
ignition switch to pass thru R61 (pins 30 & 87) to the starter solenoid.

Too much mis-information being posted, kinda like what posted on the 'Dark Side'.
Most need to review the wiring diagrams and not guess.
Here' are Lorens objections to my posts, ie what he calls misinformation

1)I view the R61 as a relay w/i a relay, I view the immobilizer as the outer relay and R61 as the inner, he objects to that discription, he can describe it however he likes but that is functionally what is happening, the R61 need a signal from the immobilizer to work. Use the bypass and that is no longer the case.

2) i said might, I never looked into that, using the remotes for the door looks has not been an issue

3) again Loren can describe it however he likes, but again functionally having a chip that does not have the code for the immobilizer illuminates it's action wrt starting the car, the R61 relay would still inhibit the start so that must also be used. Later US cars don't have the simple chip that mine does so a reflashed DME is used instead, This works on a friends US tt and on my '95 n/a.

4) I don't have a clutch switch either so I never looked into that. Yes, my alarm and power door locks are in place and yes you need to use the remote to lock/unlock the doors
I object to misinformation too, but I also object to sniping which appears to be Loren's favorite sport



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