Cab Premium Sound door speaker question
#16
Would this Focal system with built in crossovers work?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IS16...165.html?tp=94
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IS16...165.html?tp=94
#20
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Turns out the factory hifi tweeters will pop out of the inner housing by depressing the clips at the 9 and 3 positions. You also have to cut the leads with the capacitor to remove the tweeter.
You are right, the Focal tweeters really don't fit. I was under the impression that a little dremel work would be required, but I have dremeled those poor things down to almost nothing to get them to fit. I think they'll work, though. Just a lot more effort than I had thought, from reading the forums. I really would not recommend Focal tweeters for this application.
You are right, the Focal tweeters really don't fit. I was under the impression that a little dremel work would be required, but I have dremeled those poor things down to almost nothing to get them to fit. I think they'll work, though. Just a lot more effort than I had thought, from reading the forums. I really would not recommend Focal tweeters for this application.
#21
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e9stibi, I have just one more question for you, if you don't mind. After I fab the plywood bracket, and secure the 6.5" speaker and crossover to it, what do I attach it to? I don't see any obvious way to secure the bracket to the door panel, but it looks like that's what you have done. How did you mount the assembly to the door panel and how far out should it be? Did you use spacers?
Edit: It looks like you have the plywood mounted directly to the door using 4 screws? If there is no additional spacing, what is the purpose of the bracket? I thought the idea was to move the new speaker farther away from the door to create more air?
Edit: It looks like you have the plywood mounted directly to the door using 4 screws? If there is no additional spacing, what is the purpose of the bracket? I thought the idea was to move the new speaker farther away from the door to create more air?
Last edited by motion; 07-09-2013 at 08:44 PM.
#22
You are correct. I directly screwed the brackets into the sheet metal of the door. Just pre drill small holes into the plywood that allow to fit the panel and mark the sheet metal with a small screw driver and hammer. Than drill small pilot holes into the sheet metal and screw it down with proper length screws. Hope this helps.
#24
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System Equalization not by way of changing speaker units however by way of digital signal processing.... a contemporary DSP with a 1/3 octave EQ, etc., cures all 993 Hi Fi option ills independent the of head unit utilized; OEM Becker CDR210, CDR220, 7941 etc., or aftermarket.
Here's a link to a popular 12volt automotive DSP.
http://mosconi-america.com Have a look at the Mosconi - Gladen 6to8 DSP aftermarket module. Their website has a short 6to8 DSP video.
Herculean DSP can be uber effective when instructing any driver/speaker/tweeter assemblies.
All disclaimers apply.
FEATURES:
•6 Channels In, 8 Channels Out
•Channel Delay with steps of .02ms (1/4 inch)
•All settings are in Real Time
•External control with display presets
•USB + Bluetooth input to make adjustments via PC and APPs for Android Smart Phones and Tablets
•Low or High Level Input
•SP-DIF Digital Input Card Optical or Coax
•4 Presets
•Completely manufactured in Italy
SPECIFICATIONS:
Input Mode: Low Level {LL} / High Level {HL}
Input Imedance: > 10Kohm [Typ 14.3Kohm] (LL) / 37ohm (HL)
Input Sensitivity: 2Vrms ÷ 8Vrms (LL / 5Vrms ÷ 20Vrms (HL) - viaon-board potentiometers
Input Voltage Regulation: -12dB ÷ 0dB - via on-board potentiometers
Max Output Signal: 4Vrms
Output Imedance: 50 ohm
S/N Ratio: >102dB "A" (typ. 105dB "A")
T.H.D. Distortion: <-0.003% @ 1Vrms
Frequency Response: 20Hz ÷ 20KHz (within -0.1dB)
Channel Separation: >91dB (@ 100Hz)
>91dB (@ 1KHz)
>72dB (@ 10KHz)
Supply Voltage: 11V ÷ 15V
Current Consumption: 0.5A @ 12V
DC-DC Converter: Transformer coupled, Voltage regulated, Current-Mode, Flyback converter
Conversion Frequency: 105KHz
Ground Isolation vs Car Body: 1Kohm (default) / Isolated (optional) / Grounded (optional)
Autosense: Two operative modes (yes, High Level mode only)
Remote Output: 130mA max
Communication Peripherals: On-board USB, Bluetooth socket, Remote controller connector for optional display-control unit
Expansion Slot: External Memory (EEprom)
Optical Board: Optional
Here's a link to a popular 12volt automotive DSP.
http://mosconi-america.com Have a look at the Mosconi - Gladen 6to8 DSP aftermarket module. Their website has a short 6to8 DSP video.
Herculean DSP can be uber effective when instructing any driver/speaker/tweeter assemblies.
All disclaimers apply.
FEATURES:
•6 Channels In, 8 Channels Out
•Channel Delay with steps of .02ms (1/4 inch)
•All settings are in Real Time
•External control with display presets
•USB + Bluetooth input to make adjustments via PC and APPs for Android Smart Phones and Tablets
•Low or High Level Input
•SP-DIF Digital Input Card Optical or Coax
•4 Presets
•Completely manufactured in Italy
SPECIFICATIONS:
Input Mode: Low Level {LL} / High Level {HL}
Input Imedance: > 10Kohm [Typ 14.3Kohm] (LL) / 37ohm (HL)
Input Sensitivity: 2Vrms ÷ 8Vrms (LL / 5Vrms ÷ 20Vrms (HL) - viaon-board potentiometers
Input Voltage Regulation: -12dB ÷ 0dB - via on-board potentiometers
Max Output Signal: 4Vrms
Output Imedance: 50 ohm
S/N Ratio: >102dB "A" (typ. 105dB "A")
T.H.D. Distortion: <-0.003% @ 1Vrms
Frequency Response: 20Hz ÷ 20KHz (within -0.1dB)
Channel Separation: >91dB (@ 100Hz)
>91dB (@ 1KHz)
>72dB (@ 10KHz)
Supply Voltage: 11V ÷ 15V
Current Consumption: 0.5A @ 12V
DC-DC Converter: Transformer coupled, Voltage regulated, Current-Mode, Flyback converter
Conversion Frequency: 105KHz
Ground Isolation vs Car Body: 1Kohm (default) / Isolated (optional) / Grounded (optional)
Autosense: Two operative modes (yes, High Level mode only)
Remote Output: 130mA max
Communication Peripherals: On-board USB, Bluetooth socket, Remote controller connector for optional display-control unit
Expansion Slot: External Memory (EEprom)
Optical Board: Optional
#25
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I'll post some up today. I am still confused as to the purpose of the bracket. It seems like it could be far more effective if it is positioned out an inch or so from the door panel, to allow for more volume behind the speaker. As I complete my installation today, I might experiment with some approx. 1" spacers between the bracket and the door panel.
#26
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You are correct. I directly screwed the brackets into the sheet metal of the door. Just pre drill small holes into the plywood that allow to fit the panel and mark the sheet metal with a small screw driver and hammer. Than drill small pilot holes into the sheet metal and screw it down with proper length screws. Hope this helps.
#27
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Here is my installation. I used 1" PVC spacers to place the bracket away from the door panel. The cover fits just fine. I figured it would create more air for the bass, and allow me more flexibility running the wiring. I know nothing about this stuff, so caveat emptor
I used M8 bolts in the 4 mounting positions. They threaded into existing holes in the door, but I am not 100% positive the holes are threaded. Everything is very tight and tidy, though, so I am happy. And, I didn't have to drill any holes in the doors.
The sound is a huge step up from the flush mounted Focal 165 coax speakers I had mounted previously.
Fabbing the brackets was a huge pain in the ****, and very time consuming for a dolt like me, but I'm happy with the final outcome
I used M8 bolts in the 4 mounting positions. They threaded into existing holes in the door, but I am not 100% positive the holes are threaded. Everything is very tight and tidy, though, so I am happy. And, I didn't have to drill any holes in the doors.
The sound is a huge step up from the flush mounted Focal 165 coax speakers I had mounted previously.
Fabbing the brackets was a huge pain in the ****, and very time consuming for a dolt like me, but I'm happy with the final outcome