e9stibi

generally yes. You might need to dremel the tweeter a little bit to make them fit the OEM Hifi pods but that can happen with every system. Not a big issue IMHO because it is not visible.

motion

Great, thank you. Focals on order.

motion

Anyone know how to get the factory tweeters out of the housings? I'm afraid to pry them out, for fear of breaking the housing.

nile13

Are you taking about Hi-Fi tweeters? Not trivial. They are glued in there pretty good. And most Focal tweets will not fit in that housing anyway.

motion

Turns out the factory hifi tweeters will pop out of the inner housing by depressing the clips at the 9 and 3 positions. You also have to cut the leads with the capacitor to remove the tweeter.

You are right, the Focal tweeters really don't fit. I was under the impression that a little dremel work would be required, but I have dremeled those poor things down to almost nothing to get them to fit. I think they'll work, though. Just a lot more effort than I had thought, from reading the forums. I really would not recommend Focal tweeters for this application.

motion

e9stibi, I have just one more question for you, if you don't mind. After I fab the plywood bracket, and secure the 6.5" speaker and crossover to it, what do I attach it to? I don't see any obvious way to secure the bracket to the door panel, but it looks like that's what you have done. How did you mount the assembly to the door panel and how far out should it be? Did you use spacers?

Edit: It looks like you have the plywood mounted directly to the door using 4 screws? If there is no additional spacing, what is the purpose of the bracket? I thought the idea was to move the new speaker farther away from the door to create more air?

e9stibi

You are correct. I directly screwed the brackets into the sheet metal of the door. Just pre drill small holes into the plywood that allow to fit the panel and mark the sheet metal with a small screw driver and hammer. Than drill small pilot holes into the sheet metal and screw it down with proper length screws. Hope this helps.

600RR

Guys: Can you post some pix with the installation complete, but covers off?

M. Schneider

System Equalization not by way of changing speaker units however by way of digital signal processing.... a contemporary DSP with a 1/3 octave EQ, etc., cures all 993 Hi Fi option ills independent the of head unit utilized; OEM Becker CDR210, CDR220, 7941 etc., or aftermarket.
Here's a link to a popular 12volt automotive DSP.
http://mosconi-america.com Have a look at the Mosconi - Gladen 6to8 DSP aftermarket module. Their website has a short 6to8 DSP video.
Herculean DSP can be uber effective when instructing any driver/speaker/tweeter assemblies.

All disclaimers apply.

FEATURES:
•6 Channels In, 8 Channels Out
•Channel Delay with steps of .02ms (1/4 inch)
•All settings are in Real Time
•External control with display presets
•USB + Bluetooth input to make adjustments via PC and APPs for Android Smart Phones and Tablets
•Low or High Level Input
•SP-DIF Digital Input Card Optical or Coax
•4 Presets
•Completely manufactured in Italy


SPECIFICATIONS:

Input Mode: Low Level {LL} / High Level {HL}
Input Imedance: > 10Kohm [Typ 14.3Kohm] (LL) / 37ohm (HL)
Input Sensitivity: 2Vrms ÷ 8Vrms (LL / 5Vrms ÷ 20Vrms (HL) - viaon-board potentiometers
Input Voltage Regulation: -12dB ÷ 0dB - via on-board potentiometers
Max Output Signal: 4Vrms
Output Imedance: 50 ohm
S/N Ratio: >102dB "A" (typ. 105dB "A")
T.H.D. Distortion: <-0.003% @ 1Vrms
Frequency Response: 20Hz ÷ 20KHz (within -0.1dB)
Channel Separation: >91dB (@ 100Hz)
>91dB (@ 1KHz)
>72dB (@ 10KHz)
Supply Voltage: 11V ÷ 15V
Current Consumption: 0.5A @ 12V
DC-DC Converter: Transformer coupled, Voltage regulated, Current-Mode, Flyback converter
Conversion Frequency: 105KHz
Ground Isolation vs Car Body: 1Kohm (default) / Isolated (optional) / Grounded (optional)
Autosense: Two operative modes (yes, High Level mode only)
Remote Output: 130mA max
Communication Peripherals: On-board USB, Bluetooth socket, Remote controller connector for optional display-control unit
Expansion Slot: External Memory (EEprom)
Optical Board: Optional

motion

I'll post some up today. I am still confused as to the purpose of the bracket. It seems like it could be far more effective if it is positioned out an inch or so from the door panel, to allow for more volume behind the speaker. As I complete my installation today, I might experiment with some approx. 1" spacers between the bracket and the door panel.

motion

Thanks!!!

motion

Here is my installation. I used 1" PVC spacers to place the bracket away from the door panel. The cover fits just fine. I figured it would create more air for the bass, and allow me more flexibility running the wiring. I know nothing about this stuff, so caveat emptor

I used M8 bolts in the 4 mounting positions. They threaded into existing holes in the door, but I am not 100% positive the holes are threaded. Everything is very tight and tidy, though, so I am happy. And, I didn't have to drill any holes in the doors.

The sound is a huge step up from the flush mounted Focal 165 coax speakers I had mounted previously.

Fabbing the brackets was a huge pain in the ****, and very time consuming for a dolt like me, but I'm happy with the final outcome

M. Schneider

Motion - Kudo's! maybe quit the day job! Looks great and has the audio performance you sought.
Well done.

motion

Thanks!

e9stibi

This is how it is supposed to look! Just make sure that the bracket is black that you do not see any light color through the speaker grill.