Scale 993 models
#46
Thanks to ZMan & FrenchToast, I now have a UT Targa in GP White like my 1:1 Targa that will soon be going back together.
Dis-assembly was relatively straight forward with great thanks to French Toast's instructions. I ran into some problems painting - LR fender reacted & wrinkled when sprayed with base coat. Re-sanded, primed & shot again. Came out ok.
Just finished clear coat. Inspection shows I missed the panel between engine lid & passenger compartment. Will have to re-do that spot. Rest looks good. Then I'l have to remove the liquid-mask on some areas.
One of these days, I'll post the various steps it has gone through. This week will be short as we head for Amelia. So, perhaps in a couple of weeks when it is all back together.
Took advantage of the painting to also paint the spoiler grille for the real Targa in GP White. It too is now clear-coated.
Dis-assembly was relatively straight forward with great thanks to French Toast's instructions. I ran into some problems painting - LR fender reacted & wrinkled when sprayed with base coat. Re-sanded, primed & shot again. Came out ok.
Just finished clear coat. Inspection shows I missed the panel between engine lid & passenger compartment. Will have to re-do that spot. Rest looks good. Then I'l have to remove the liquid-mask on some areas.
One of these days, I'll post the various steps it has gone through. This week will be short as we head for Amelia. So, perhaps in a couple of weeks when it is all back together.
Took advantage of the painting to also paint the spoiler grille for the real Targa in GP White. It too is now clear-coated.
And the model is the same color code as your 1:1? Even cooler!
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Other news:
Release of a new WB 1:18 993 has been announced by GT-Spirit: C4S!
#47
Drifting
The disassembly instructions are just what I've been looking for. I've removed the exposed screws from the bottom but haven't figured how it all releases fearing breaking something. The paintwork looks great! Will the paint you used take color wet sanding with 2000 and polishing?
#48
The disassembly instructions are just what I've been looking for. I've removed the exposed screws from the bottom but haven't figured how it all releases fearing breaking something. The paintwork looks great! Will the paint you used take color wet sanding with 2000 and polishing?
The doors should be open when you remove the chassis. This goes for any model with 'dogleg' style door hinges: in the closed position they usually prevent the dash from coming out.
The steering shaft needs to be pried out of the 'rack.'
Also, since you may have a WB (judging from your sig) - the rocker panels have tabs that clip into the plastic undercarriage. Since they're part of the metal body, they're pretty strong. There are either one per side or two per side depending on the iteration model you have (UTs have some subtle changes over their production). You can see them through the undercarriage.
NB models have separate rocker panels that are glued to the undercarriage, and aren't clipped the metal body AFAIK.
Take care,
#53
Rennlist Member
just picked up a white Carrera RS off of ebay, actually came today. Outta the perfect box, and on the shelf it goes...Amazing the prices these UT 993's are bringing, even damaged, stickers torn, etc.
Still want more...I would love to break some apart and atempt to match my 4S, but ...
Still want more...I would love to break some apart and atempt to match my 4S, but ...
#54
I had to stop work on re-assembly as we had an issue of our magazine deadlining. It goes to the printer Friday. After that & some yard work, I can get back to it. However, here are some pix as it sits - still missing some things & not screwed or glued. Top is real car, then model & 3rd is poor shot of dash. When finished, I'll get better shots. My real Targa has white gauges, model's are black. Not about to try changing them - at this point.
#56
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thanks for sharing: lots to LUV, especially those seats
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Gorgeous...
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Gorgeous...
#57
A set of 1:18 scale 'aftermarket' (seriously, LOL!) can run anywhere from $5 and right up to $100 for ones that use real aluminum. If you want them to roll and steer just like the real car sometimes you need to do some significant modifications.
Spare parts are usually few and far between. Most of the time you need to source a whole model. However there are a handful of vendors that sell spare parts, most in Europe. If you want some links to shops I can post some.
For example: it's taken me about a year to source specific spare parts at a reasonable cost.
Looks like you have some of the famous 'wheel melt.' Be very careful when handling the model - if you touch the gooey wheel paint it is somewhat like anti-seize in that it gets everywhere and is hard to remove.
It does look good! I've read they 3D scan the real cars for the scale models they make.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 04-10-2014 at 12:24 PM.
#59