Garth S

Is there space to slip a thin 'button' type magnet onto the 2nd syncro?

chaoscreature

Garth,
That's a good idea. I don't have a magnet small enough, but I think I know where to find one...
Either way the whole shabang is coming apart over the next two weeks so I will be able to really take a look at it.
Thanks!

chaoscreature

1st and 2nd Gears are now confirmed to be steel .
The part number on the synchronizer is 040.8.0051.10 but I can't seem to find this part number referenced anywhere.
Also, not sure if this is typical but 2nd gear has a steel race, while all other gears have the plastic ones... Does this mean anything to anyone?

Garth S

It means that you're one lucky dude - fewer $$$ races & synchros to buy for the rebuild

Now, for the serious part - is there an apparent fault that would be responsible for the binding? My guess was that one of the plastic races had started to release a needle bearing - but that does not appear to be the case.

Bill Verburg

Steel syncros can wear to, I needed to replace 2 of them last year

there are 2 syncros between 1 &2 loose gears in steel as used on /30 & /32(RSCS, Cup & RSR) both are 950.304.611.11 you need to carefully inspect all the associated parts, my 3/4 shift fork 950.303.113.04 and guide rings were also worn

here are most of the other /30 specific parts
needle cage loose 2 39.68x50 999.201.225.50 these are all fitted to the gears and can vary
friction ring 950.304.617.11
cone ring 950.304.613.11
tension plate 950.303.130.55
reverse lever 950.303.035.06
lever 950.303.120.54

Bill Verburg

So no broken bearings? or other sign of damage?

chaoscreature

I have not found any "damage" yet, but I did finally find some debris. There is not a lot of debris but bit it just happened to be down the oiling port for the shift rod and is the reason for my loss of gears. To get into 2, 4, 6 gears the shift rod must plunge further into the casing, but the chips were preventing that from happening.
I still need to figure out how to get the shift rod out, it's bound by the rest of the shifter mechanism and I just need to keep digging to ensure that the linear bearings are not damaged.

I have not found yet where the large chunk/chip on my magnet came from.
Oh, and Bill, the steel synchros do show some sign of wear. The 2nd gear synchro specifically has the teeth a little bit more rounded than the ones for 1st gear. None of them look chipper or broken, just worn. Is it safe to replace just the synchro and re-use the abrasive cone part? The first gear synchro looks fine to my untrained eye.

The transmission is marked as a G50/20 and my 1st and 2nd gears are machined directly into the input shaft. I was really hoping to find the loose 2nd, but if I was that lucky I would be living in Vegas


Here are the chips I pulled out of the shifter pocket. The largest one is smaller than a grain of rice... more about the size of coarse sand?



The very first "pocket", the one closest to the camera is where the shifter mechanism slides in/out. The other pockets are for returning oil back from the differential to the main case.



Here is the shift rod looking at it from the main case. There is a seal in there and probably a linear roller bearing as well. That's what I need to remove next.



Here you can see the 1st and 2nd gears are machined into the input shaft. Gear ratios are all stock G50/20 ratios.

Bill Verburg

I wouldn't trust my evaluation of those parts either, you really need to get someone w/ experience

The transmission serial number breakdowns for the 2nd gear changeover to fixed, 3rd & 4th gear guide sleeve and needle cage updates are;


G50.20 - 02693
G50.20 - 02174 (M220)
G50.21 - 05072
G50.21 - 03094 (M220)
1 is fixed on all street, 2 from the above #s

chaoscreature

Yeah, I missed the cut-off and knew I wouldn't find the desirable input shaft arrangement. I forgot my exact serial number off hand but it was 03xx.
Thanks again Bill!

mgianzero

Peter,

I am most impressed with your (pardon the expression) ***** to do this! This takes quite a bit of patience and time. Sorry I can't help you much. What are you using for a reference to dismantle and determine gear location, etc.?

Perhaps we can arrange some sort of "tech session" before you button her up so that we can learn more about the innards of this transaxle. Maybe even takes some stills and video and write it up.

Keep working on this. I'm glued to this thread!

Marc Gianzero

PS - Can you please PM your address so I can mail you back this tie-rod pinning tool?

chaoscreature

Marc,

Thank you. It's not *****, more like necessity!
I am mostly using the Porsche 993 manual. The information in there is decent, but they assume that you know what you are doing, which I clearly don't

If you are in the area shoot me a PM and I will show you what I have done so far. I could use a 2nd set of eyes on some of these parts, those chips had to have come from somewhere!
- Peter

Ed Hughes

Glad you are making progress in diagnosis, Peter.

mgianzero

Peter,

Hope you are doing well. What's the latest on your tranny rebuild? Haven't hear much news in a while.

Marc G.

chaoscreature

Marc,
I am starting to buy parts. Turns out I chipped the dog teeth on 2nd gear. The shift sleeves are pretty worn out too. I am going to start acquiring parts in the very near future. I will start a new post with pictures again shortly since I moved stuff around on photobucket.

The parts list so far:
RS Clutch Kit (bought)
Mid Weight Flywheel (have source, but need to purchase)
1-2 Shift Sleeve (GBox)
1-4 Synchros (GBox)
New 2nd gear with dog teeth, NEED TO FIND
I am also going to swap the shift sleeve from 5-6 to 3-4 and vice-versa thanks to the tip from Gbox.

If anyone has an excellent condition used 2nd gear from a G50/20 I am interested. New ones are not cheap...

Interesting news as well. It's NORMAL to have a steel 1st and 2nd steel synchronizer ring. The difference in the racing part is the cone section which is steel in the racing version VS a strange brazed/bonded brass part in the normal synchronizer setup. Again, i will get some pictures up to highlight this.

mgianzero

Peter,

Looks like a pretty big, challenging, but fun project you got yourself into. From what little I know about the transaxles on these cars, I thought first and second were not removable, or was that just first gear.

Mid weight flywheel that Steve Weiner has made seems like a viable option for you. I'd consider it, vs Andial if you can still find one.

Sorry, but I don't know much about sourcing these parts, unless from the usual places that we all know of.

Please keep us informed (with pics) of your progress. I find it fascinating!

Also, please note that your pics are no longer linking to this post. Did you remove them?

Keep up the strong work!


Marc