Was just doing some searching for transmission coolers and am not finding too much...
Without a real pump I wouldn't think you would get much flow through one. Is there an electric pump that can handle 75w-90?

 

Yes, I can send you some picts of my tilton pump setup. We modded the trans case for return at the differential and pulled from a banjo fitting at the drain plug. Works great. You need to either add a themostat or a turn the pump on after the trans gets warm. (Pump is a bit loud though). But was is not loud on a race car.

 

BTW, I really suggest you get someone experienced on G50s to look over your shoulder. It is very easy to make a mistake on getting these back together properly and you can make the project a bit worse if you miss something.

 

Bob,
I am considering letting a pro do the final re-assembly. At least I will be able to diagnose the problem (once I find it) and then I can take my time ordering parts that need replacement etc. If I am going to be doing a lot of upgrades than this is going to take longer due to budget constraints
You can e-mail me pictures at:
chaoscreature@hotmail.com or post them here for others to see.
I found one other (might have been yours) post with pictures of a transmission cooler setup. I think I can put one together for around $600 with fittings etc.

 

A good option for a cooler is to use a factory Tiptronic cooler (it mounts right up against the stock oilcooler no problem) some oil lines, fittings, temp sensor, filter and a pump and your good to go. I am switching mine automatically through my ecu, this way I don't have to worry about it.

The tilton pumps are diaphram style pumps that flow about 1-2 gph and are relatively cheap at around $170. I like a spur gear type pump, these are not that more than a diaphram type pump but tend to flow more. RB Racing have a 2gph for $225. These ones use brass helical gears and are relatively quiet.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

 

Hmmm - if you are driving the car on the street and the occasional track event, I do not think you need a cooler. Of course, I am saying this without any data like transmission oil temperature measurements while the car is under power.

Cheers,

Mike

 

The data Geoffrey Ring posted suggested that on a 95*F day a 380hp RSR would want a trans cooler after ~30min

 

The day I had my problem was a DE event. Most people had gone home so those of us who were left were allowed to do continuous lapping. I am not sure how long I was out but it was longer than half an hour. You spend most of the time at Pomona in 2nd and third. My engine temps never went into the "danger zone" at least.
Honestly I think the plastic bearing races were just a matter of time... they are 17 years old and were probably very brittle. At least, that's the assumption! Once I clear the main housing I will know for sure.

 

While I would like to have a transmission oil cooler w/ thermostat, I feel it far more important to have the /30 bearings, syncros, forks and gears. If there is anything in the budget after that then spring for a cooler.

 

Bill, that was the plan.
Because I usually run low speed tracks (AX) od DE's I am thinking that the 2nd gear steel synchro set is the most important one for me... too bad it's also the most expensive!
Trans cooler is the last item on my list, but I still consider it important. A 2nd engine oil cooler is also on the list somewhere.

Bill, do you agree with the above statement or are the brass synchro's okay for 1st/2nd?

 

Steel all the way especially in AX, this type of event is much harder on them than on the Big tracks.

I found with my stock transmission, 20 to 25 mins on the track at Miller was enough to start to cause issues. I lost 2,4 and 6 temporarily. It actually came back and was able to drive the 900 miles back home without issue.

If you have an LSD it adds another heat source into the transmission. Overall the cost of doing a trans cooler (~$600) is cheap insurance on a transmission that can cost anywhere up to $10,000 to rebuild.

 

Does anyone know the part number of the improved bearings (non-plastic race). Surprisingly the shop manual just calls them "Needle Rolling Bearing Cage".

 

Steven,
Did you ever find out why you lost the gears? Was it just the heat maybe causing a binding issue?
Since I have this thing apart the bearings will be replaced either way, I don't want to do this again... ever.

 

The bearing sets are matched to the gears and the /30 bearings may not fit the gears you have. At this point it's best to let someone like Brian Copans have it, ie let a Pro work their magic on it. A buddy who's quite good at this and rebuilt his trans the first time and has a relationship w/ Joel Reiser, watched him rebuild w/ the race bearings, that was where the damaged bearing pics I posted came from. His comment to me was, "I never would have been able to do that, you need a whole shop full of parts to make it work right".

If you are interested I can recommend a great shop in Ct. or in the SW or Ohio.

 

No idea why, once I get the engine done, the transmission is next on my list. These mods are getting expensive.