stub wrenches to remove 993 fuel filter?
#1
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this DIY
http://www.mechanixtrix.com/Article/...?ArticleId=121
explain how to do it and say:
The fuel filter is located on the right side of the engine bay just in front of the power steering fluid reservoir. To provide room to work it is highly recommended you remove the entire air cleaner housing. I've been told others have changed the fuel filter without doing this. However, the factory manual calls for it and if you don't I think you'll need stub wrenches.
Well the fisrt question is :
whats the mining of " stub wrenches" i'm from Barcelona (Catalonia) so i don't gave a good english.
2on question:
is this true that exist a tool to change the fuel filter without removing the cleaner housing?
where i can buy it?
thanks in advance
http://www.mechanixtrix.com/Article/...?ArticleId=121
explain how to do it and say:
The fuel filter is located on the right side of the engine bay just in front of the power steering fluid reservoir. To provide room to work it is highly recommended you remove the entire air cleaner housing. I've been told others have changed the fuel filter without doing this. However, the factory manual calls for it and if you don't I think you'll need stub wrenches.
Well the fisrt question is :
whats the mining of " stub wrenches" i'm from Barcelona (Catalonia) so i don't gave a good english.
2on question:
is this true that exist a tool to change the fuel filter without removing the cleaner housing?
where i can buy it?
thanks in advance
#2
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Stub wrenches are just shorter than usual. The fittings on the fuel filter may be very tight, so you may need the torque of the long wrenches.
There are no special tools to remove the fuel filter beyond what is shown in the article. It is better to use the flare nut wrenches as shown for the fuel line fittings, so you don't damage them.
It may be possible to change the fuel filter without removing the air cleaner, but it would be very difficult due to lack of room to work.
There are no special tools to remove the fuel filter beyond what is shown in the article. It is better to use the flare nut wrenches as shown for the fuel line fittings, so you don't damage them.
It may be possible to change the fuel filter without removing the air cleaner, but it would be very difficult due to lack of room to work.
#3
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Stub wrenches are just shorter than usual. The fittings on the fuel filter may be very tight, so you may need the torque of the long wrenches.
There are no special tools to remove the fuel filter beyond what is shown in the article. It is better to use the flare nut wrenches as shown for the fuel line fittings, so you don't damage them.
It may be possible to change the fuel filter without removing the air cleaner, but it would be very difficult due to lack of room to work.
There are no special tools to remove the fuel filter beyond what is shown in the article. It is better to use the flare nut wrenches as shown for the fuel line fittings, so you don't damage them.
It may be possible to change the fuel filter without removing the air cleaner, but it would be very difficult due to lack of room to work.
#4
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I don't know. I avoid using open ended wrenches when possible.
I do know that you should use flare nut wrenches so that you minimize the risk of damaging the fitting on the fuel lines if they are tight. Those fittings cannot be replaced easily.
Taking the the air filter housing out is a simple job which takes a matter of minutes and it will give you the room you need to do the job right.
I do know that you should use flare nut wrenches so that you minimize the risk of damaging the fitting on the fuel lines if they are tight. Those fittings cannot be replaced easily.
Taking the the air filter housing out is a simple job which takes a matter of minutes and it will give you the room you need to do the job right.
#6
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+993 It is easy to remove the Air Filter housing - the DIY actually makes it look more complex than it really is. You'll have it off in 15 minutes and back on in the same time.
#7
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I have found some of the fuel filters to be real bears to loosen - it takes my longer flare wrenches, proper positioning of the wrenches of maximum torque by placing them close together so I can "squeeze" them together, and thicker gloves because it will let go and then you will gouge something.
Remember to position the wrenches so you are not twisting the hard lines, so hold the filter still with a wrench to the nut on the body of the filter, and undo the swivel nut on the hard line.
Also, make sure you have lots of rags around, wait or depressurize the system before you do this. Do not unhook the filter as soon as you stop the engine, the filter will still be pressurized and you will have a hot engine below. I will undo the rail line first, using a small container to catch the fuel, and then work my way back to the filter.
Its essential to make some room to be comfortable, and as has been mentioned before, removing the covers and even the air box is easy.
I also write down with an indelible sharpie the mileage of the change on the forward side of the filter so you can easily see when it was done.
Its also easier to loosen the feed lines before you take off the main strap for the forward line, but I sometimes loosen the strap to get a better angle on the rear line.
Make sure you clear the fuel quickly, do not leave fuel soaked rags in the engine bay, and do this with good ventilation. NO SMOKING.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I need to improve the article on pcarworkshop.
Cheers,
Mike
Remember to position the wrenches so you are not twisting the hard lines, so hold the filter still with a wrench to the nut on the body of the filter, and undo the swivel nut on the hard line.
Also, make sure you have lots of rags around, wait or depressurize the system before you do this. Do not unhook the filter as soon as you stop the engine, the filter will still be pressurized and you will have a hot engine below. I will undo the rail line first, using a small container to catch the fuel, and then work my way back to the filter.
Its essential to make some room to be comfortable, and as has been mentioned before, removing the covers and even the air box is easy.
I also write down with an indelible sharpie the mileage of the change on the forward side of the filter so you can easily see when it was done.
Its also easier to loosen the feed lines before you take off the main strap for the forward line, but I sometimes loosen the strap to get a better angle on the rear line.
Make sure you clear the fuel quickly, do not leave fuel soaked rags in the engine bay, and do this with good ventilation. NO SMOKING.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I need to improve the article on pcarworkshop.
Cheers,
Mike
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#8
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I have found some of the fuel filters to be real bears to loosen - it takes my longer flare wrenches, proper positioning of the wrenches of maximum torque by placing them close together so I can "squeeze" them together, and thicker gloves because it will let go and then you will gouge something. Remember to position the wrenches so you are not twisting the hard lines, so hold the filter still with a wrench to the nut on the body of the filter, and undo the swivel nut on the hard line.
Also, make sure you have lots of rags around, wait or depressurize the system before you do this. Do not unhook the filter as soon as you stop the engine, the filter will still be pressurized and you will have a hot engine below. I will undo the rail line first, using a small container to catch the fuel, and then work my way back to the filter.
Its essential to make some room to be comfortable, and as has been mentioned before, removing the covers and even the air box is easy.
I also write down with an indelible sharpie the mileage of the change on the forward side of the filter so you can easily see when it was done.
Its also easier to loosen the feed lines before you take off the main strap for the forward line, but I sometimes loosen the strap to get a better angle on the rear line.
Make sure you clear the fuel quickly, do not leave fuel soaked rags in the engine bay, and do this with good ventilation. NO SMOKING.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I need to improve the article on pcarworkshop.
Cheers,
Mike
Also, make sure you have lots of rags around, wait or depressurize the system before you do this. Do not unhook the filter as soon as you stop the engine, the filter will still be pressurized and you will have a hot engine below. I will undo the rail line first, using a small container to catch the fuel, and then work my way back to the filter.
Its essential to make some room to be comfortable, and as has been mentioned before, removing the covers and even the air box is easy.
I also write down with an indelible sharpie the mileage of the change on the forward side of the filter so you can easily see when it was done.
Its also easier to loosen the feed lines before you take off the main strap for the forward line, but I sometimes loosen the strap to get a better angle on the rear line.
Make sure you clear the fuel quickly, do not leave fuel soaked rags in the engine bay, and do this with good ventilation. NO SMOKING.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I need to improve the article on pcarworkshop.
Cheers,
Mike
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#9
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someone said to me that it is not necesary to remove all the air cleaning house, only removing the right part of the house because is too much near the fuel filter to work well.
is it true?
anyway i thing almost of you will gonna recommend to me to remove all the house to do the work well isn`t true?
is it true?
anyway i thing almost of you will gonna recommend to me to remove all the house to do the work well isn`t true?
#10
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yes, that will give you enough room. It depends on your flexibility and size. I am fairly big with large hands, so I sometimes need the room!
#11
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pcarworkshop.
Mike
Mike
thanks for all