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Removing, Pulling or Dropping a 993 Engine...

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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #1  
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Default Removing, Pulling or Dropping a 993 Engine...

Did some searches on "removing" and "pulling" a 993 engine. Didn't seem to get threads directly related to said evolution but a lot of suggestions for people to drop the engine.

For those of you that know me, I've pulled A LOT of 911 engines in the past, mainly 911SC, Carerra 3.2 and MANY MANY times, a 964. This will be my first 993 engine drop.

Can anyone lead me to a good write up for this?
Also, are there any good tips you have from experience?

I imagine there are some good items to remove on top of the engine prior to detaching and lowering, that's probably the tips I'm looking for - don't really want to break anything.

Funny story already: Put the car up on my lift and started to drain the oil...I suppose a little research might've revealed a tip related to REMOVING THE RIGHT SIDE ROCKER PANEL FIRST!! With a two post lift, the pads were perfectly in the way.

SO, right rear wheel went back on, car lowered, rocker panel removed and car situated for lifting once again. Damnit.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 11:25 PM
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Here, try these that I cut from my subscription list.

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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 12:08 AM
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Full writeup on pcarworkshop.com

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...ing_the_engine

For a two post lift, I have one of these - works fantastic, you can support the car on the suspension points and swing selected arms of the lift out of the way, for example on a NB I use it to move the arm out of the way to removed the back of the sill cover to drain the oil... you can get tall and short ones depending on what you want, and the height you typically work at.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/2-...pod-Stand-TALL

Cheers

Mike
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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Can't improve on the above, only note that with your prior experience the only "extra" on a 993 has to do with the rear suspension interference. And since you've done the 964 plenty of times, you already know the ground strap gotcha, relative to the torsion bar cars.
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Thanks for the links guys, guess I should've searched "drop engine" and let it fly, think I only did remove and pull...but see there were links with those words in there?

Anyway, got the oil drained and all the heating ducts off, will checkout some of the links this evening while I get my feet to thaw out. It's COLD down here at the beach since last week and my new boots allow my feet to freeze for some odd reason. Damnit again.

Thanks again, much appreciated. If there's anything anyone would like a picture of, let me know. There are always things I wish I would've taken pictures of whenever I dropped an engine but was too much into the project to do so!
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:16 AM
  #6  
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Engine almost on the ground, took a hiatus to build a nice stout dolly to drop the engine/trans. onto so can roll it out of the way. Thanks to fellow Rennlister Larry Herman, I have a few nice pics of his from when I was up "assisting" with an engine install on a friend's car a few years ago...so I copied it and as of this evening, have it's "twin".

Question: HOW THE HELL does one change the CV axles with the engine/trans. installed in a 993? I could detach the inner joint from the trans. flange but the suspension makes it so you're not able to drop them down at a nice angle to slide out? Undo the wheel carrier at the top or bottom??
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:24 AM
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I think you can use a floor jack to load the suspension, placing the axle at a more favorable angle.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:19 AM
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no floor jack loading suspension on a two post for me

gr8 write -up in workshop manual
on a two post Lift, when engine sits on trolly (or stout dolly) and you want to raise the car, there is one
thing to take care of, is the rear cam cover on the left side.
The rear left cam cover plug hits the chassis perpendicularly. You just need another person to look at it
from left wheel well and when it is going to touch the chassis, the trolly and engine has to be rolled backwards a few centimeters.
Now for installing the engine, and since it is heavy on a trolly ( I was alone), before placing the trolly under the car.
Take a fishing plastic line with a weight attached, and place the fishing line on the engine mount bolt on the car, with the weight dangling a centimeter above the floor.
When the line settles, mark the floor with a 2 centimeter circle.
Do that for the two engine mounts, and the two extreme holes on gearbox mount. Each time tying the line up on the car, and marking where the weight steadies on the floor (to mark the perpendicular line)
Roll the trolly so that the two engine bracket holes on engine, and the transmission mount holes, are perpendicular to the dots on the floor.
This way you lower the car and it falls straight on the mounting holes.
one of my stupid solutions whilst alone
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:33 AM
  #9  
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Thanks guys, got the engine on the ground (or a dolly, anyway) last night.
Going to take a few weeks off from the project and get ready for the first race of the season.

If you don't mind, I'll keep this thread "alive" with any questions I might have during tear down.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Curtis
If you don't mind, I'll keep this thread "alive" with any questions I might have during tear down.
Of course, that's the best way to do it. My first 993 drop used many people's input to make it successful
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