Upper valve cover, how to torque?
#1
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Hi There
My recently rebuilt 993 engine (top) has sprung a nasty leak from the upper cam cover, just at one point at one of the last cam cover bolts under the power steering pump. My brother has removed the cover without removing any of the engine tin. He said it was a very tight and difficult.
I am wondering how he is going to correctly torque the cover on replacement as there is no room for a wrench. Does anyone know how many turns gives 7ft lbs on these bolts?
Also is there any sealer available that will help seal the cover? When I did it as part of the rebuild I did use a smear of hylomar blue.
Many thanks
Berni
My recently rebuilt 993 engine (top) has sprung a nasty leak from the upper cam cover, just at one point at one of the last cam cover bolts under the power steering pump. My brother has removed the cover without removing any of the engine tin. He said it was a very tight and difficult.
I am wondering how he is going to correctly torque the cover on replacement as there is no room for a wrench. Does anyone know how many turns gives 7ft lbs on these bolts?
Also is there any sealer available that will help seal the cover? When I did it as part of the rebuild I did use a smear of hylomar blue.
Many thanks
Berni
#2
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Use your fingers - tighten one properly with a good low-value calibrated torque wrench, then use a tool to feel how tight that 7f lbs is. You can then use that feeling to tighten the bolts you cannot get to.
It does take a bit of feel, but I do that on the hard to access bolts, and very rarely do I get any leaks, and I have done several engines this way.
Do not use any sealers, but I do use Dow Corning 111 on the rubber itself - it seems to help seal and keep the rubber supple.
Why did he not remove any of the engine tin - its quite easy and allows for better access under the power steering pump. hard to reach bolts are harder to torque properly.
Cheers,
Mike
It does take a bit of feel, but I do that on the hard to access bolts, and very rarely do I get any leaks, and I have done several engines this way.
Do not use any sealers, but I do use Dow Corning 111 on the rubber itself - it seems to help seal and keep the rubber supple.
Why did he not remove any of the engine tin - its quite easy and allows for better access under the power steering pump. hard to reach bolts are harder to torque properly.
Cheers,
Mike
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Hi Mike
That is a good question. I cannot remember but I am sure the tin comes off without removing the exhaust. I will get him to do that. I have a good low range wrench and will suggest your technique to him.
Many thanks
Berni
That is a good question. I cannot remember but I am sure the tin comes off without removing the exhaust. I will get him to do that. I have a good low range wrench and will suggest your technique to him.
Many thanks
Berni
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The muffler needs to come off, and then the muffler mount with a hex bolt and 13mm lower bolt (just loosen), rubber hot air tube, one sheet metal 10mm bolt and one 10mm tab bolt, two more hex bolts and then you stand a chance - that is for the right side. You also need to remove the clutch vent tube, pull the lower plug wires, push the grommet back through the sheet metal, push the wires through the hole, and remove the tin.
The only part of the exhaust you have to remove is the mufflers and tips - only three bolts in total.
Cheers,
Mike
The only part of the exhaust you have to remove is the mufflers and tips - only three bolts in total.
Cheers,
Mike
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One thing, check the cover for flatness against a flat surface (I use glass) and replace if plastic and not flat.
I torque in cross hatch fashion starting with an initial light pull down by hand before going to torque. A small 1/4" torque wrench is handy here.
Dow 111 helps because it is a lubricant to allow the seal to move without wearing during engine heat cycles.
I torque in cross hatch fashion starting with an initial light pull down by hand before going to torque. A small 1/4" torque wrench is handy here.
Dow 111 helps because it is a lubricant to allow the seal to move without wearing during engine heat cycles.
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At this point I would not bother taking things apart. If all has been done properly and only a fastener or two need tightening, I would use a short L-wrench and hand tighten them.