gtroth

Hello.
I had a clutch-hanging-up issue. Two years ago, had a shop replace the clutch slave, and that fixed it and all was well until recently when it began to hang up again.
So I went in and replaced the kinematic lever and the clutch master cylinder, and lubed everything up with the 043.203.37 Optimoly grease.
Reinstalled, and bled using the Motive, filling the Motive with ATE gold.
Bled the slave, then bled the brakes while I was at it, then bled the slave again.
Reservoir never ran dry - at the end it was filled to the brim, so removed fluid with a baster to bring it down to the 'MAX' line.
Frankly, everything went perfectly smoothly - nothing unexpected at all.
But now the pedal will not return. Doesn't go over-center on the linkage.

Any ideas?

Many thanks in advance.

eddie_993

I'll be keeping an eye on this as I'm about to replace the lever, as well, as soon as it arrives. Then I will take it to a shop to have the master and slave replaced. I'm hoping this will solve my hanging issues.

I can't help much but good luck!

IXLR8

Well if it is all the way down to the firewall and won't return, it has gone over center.

Check everything that you assembled. Double check your work.
You might have air in the system.
The slave rod isn't in the dimple of the clutch bearing fork. Remove the rubber cover and check.
The clutch is not adjusted properly.

Falcondrivr

On a related note;
What is the trick to getting the output line back in without crossthreading it in the master? I've been fighting it all morning...On my my out to buy a tap and dye to clean up the threads Ive ****ed up on my brand new master cylinder...

gtroth

Thanks.
Ok, so it won't return back from over center. Seems like the master is full of air and won't push back enough, but I bled the crap out of it. And I'll bleed it more I suppose. Is there a way to bleed the master improperly that I have stumbled onto?
I do:
-clamp off overflow from the top of the reservoir
-top off reservoir to the brim
-fill Motive
-give it a couple of pumps to fill the tube
-quckly attach Motive to reservoir
-pump to 10 psi
-open slave bleeder and let flow until no air (hard to judge...)

I am certain everything is assembled properly, and the clutch was working perfectly before I went after this (the occasional hang ups were just a minor irritation).

eddie_993: whoever replaces the lever (you or the shop) should replace the master since it will be a trivial amount of extra labor once the pedals are out.

bruce7

Try doing the final assembly in the car. Covered here in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...y-rebuild.html

-bruce

bobboinski

I had this problem also. What worked for me was pumping the pedal (you may have to pull it up by hand). For some reason the pressure bleeder didn't get the air out of the master cylinder but the pumping did. As I recall it took quite a bit of pumping the pedal.

kjr914

+993
To be careful, I didn't let it go all the way down when pumping by hand. Its a 2 handed job to pump it since it wants to snap to the floor. So you need 2 people...1 to pump the pedal, 1 to loosen/tighten the clutch slave bleeder. Pedal pumper needs to monitor the back (rear of car) small section (dedicated to the clutch) of the brake fluid reservoir, as its easy to run dry...

bobboinski

I was able to just pump up the pedal without bleeding and then went back to pressure bleeding. You do have to be careful not to run the fluid low in the reservoir.

gtroth

Hey, thanks fellas. That's what I'll try next. I run the Motive full of fluid so the reservoir doesn't run dry. Never really understood the appeal of running the Motive dry, seems to defeat the beauty of the thing.

IXLR8

That method eliminates the need to clean the Motive Products Power Bleeder after use which should be done unless you are running a shop and it is used almost daily.

The end result as far as the hydraulic system being free of air, is the same. It just takes a bit more time.

gtroth

That's it, huh?
All that careful monitoring of the reservoir level, opening the cap to keep adding fluid and pumping it back up, and risk of running the clutch circuit dry just so you don't have to wash one extra thing? Ok. Not for me.
Of course, my method did not work at all this time... :-)

eddie_993

Will definitely be doing this, I just have to order the part. I only wish that I had the capabilities of changing the slave cylinder myself, as well, but that's what I get for living in an apartment.

Thanks for your advice!

Eddie

gtroth

Ok, all good now. Feels real silky. I set the spring tensioner according to the FSM and that's a lighter force than where it was I think.
Here's what I did- I went away on travel and got back to it today. Pushed in the clutch and it returned just like it should (ie, I did nothing but wait 5 days or so).
Nevertheless, I went ahead and bled it exactly like I described above and did manage to get some air out. Stopped a few times during the process and pushed the clutch and banged on the pedal with my fist, and each time I seemed to get a little air.
One thing I like to do now is open and close the bleeder by hand (once its loosened) so its easy to start and stop. You can actually feel the bubbles pulsating into the bleeder hose if there's a lot of them. Handy, but no substitute for a bright light and eyeballs to know you're done.
Thanks, all!